THE MICHIGAN DAILY
PAGE THREE
Defense
Women Give
'Shirt Off Back'
For Priorities
Dirndls, Pleats To Disappear
Without Aid From Magicians;
Armed Forces Are Responsible
By JANET VEENBOER
New low necklines, skirts shorter
and shorter, no more dirndls or pleats
-rumors and predictions are passed
about through whispers, magazines,
and newspapers, and behind it all:
there is just one thing-
Defense, Defense, DEFENSE!! The
words come at us from every walk of
life to remind us of the fighting that
is going on in the Pacific waters.
Women are being affected through'
that thing nearest and dearest to
the heart of each-that's fashion.
Now in explaining a shortage clerks
no longer say, "We're expecting a
shipment soon," but rather, "We don't
know when they'll be coming in."
Leading department stores and'
dress shops are getting in large ship-
ments of cotton dresses and summer
sport clothes so that racks will be
full for the next few weeks of gay
prints and beguiling formals. How-
ever, although there are still large
stocks on hand the time is not far
off when women will find their very
wardrobes rationed. In spite of the
fact that actual rationing is in the
distant future, buying will be more
difficult this summer than in the
past.
With priorities on cotton for army
sheets, on nylon for parachutes, and
on dyes for war chemicals, women
will find their tastes in fashion con-
forming to the dictation of the war
board. Because little dye will be used'
in new clothes, the range of colors
will be diminished; new suits and
dresses will be shown in natural col-
ors. Brilliant hues will no longer be
so abundant, and beige and gray will
be the patriotic thing to wear in-
stead of red, white and blue.
Most important is the way in which
the actual cut and lines of the clothes
will be affected by the developments'
in the Far East. A firm rule is that
a minimum amount of material be
used for each individual garment.
This would mean a conspicuous ab-
sence of wide, flattering skirts made
with either pleats or folds, and of
unnecessary pockets and flaps which
adorn so many of the summer cot-
tons
Still, fashion magazines and shops
seem to be showing the same styles
as ever, in spite of the talk and the
warnings. Nevertheless, one evidence
of priority action is in the new low
necklines being shown in summer
shirt waist classics. One example is a
checked rayon crepe with a low
sweetheart line that is made to be
worn sans jewelry of any kind. Short
skirts have always been popular in
warm weather, so that no change will
be evidenced along that line, but a
question remains as to the possibili-
ties of cutting the material in bath-
ing suits.
Nylon Is Now Knit
Into New Sweaters
Biggest news for sweater wearers
is the introduction of nylon sweaters
in popular styles and shades. They
are claimed to be as snuggly as wool
and much more practical for the
allergy-affected.
Like nylon stockings and girdles
these new sweaters are soft and silky
to touch, wash well and dry fast, and
ought to wear well. The moths have
not as yet reported on how they taste
but it is hoped that these new sweat-
ers give the little fellers indigestion.
Is
Byword
Of
Conservative
St yles
For
Duration
Tailored
Suits Are
All-In For Defense
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Home-Made
Clothes Ease.
College Budget
New Processed Chintz Makes
Good Material For Beginners,
Calico, Chambray Economical
Taking it for granted that you're
just a plain ordinary college woman,
with just a plain ordinary budget
for clothes, summer and otherwise,
it might be thu deduced that you're
going to find it a little difficult this
year to find all the clothes you'd like.
Maybe you're not a born seam-
stress, (very few of us are), but if
the above is the case .just hustle out
the pioneer spirit, so-called, and take
to making a few of your own cottons,
etcetera. Certain materials, certain
patterns, certain costumes take more
readily to this hand-made idea than
others, so let's investigate the matter.
For example, there's a certain ma-
terial called chintz, which takes more
than readily to your own sewing ma-
chine and what's more, to your own
ideas of style and fashion whims.
It's easily handled if you're not too
skillful with the needle or machine,
and the new, processed chintz is
washable almost forever after. Be-
sides, it's high in fashion's favor this
season, for playsuit or for a fresh,
flattering formal.
Dirndls, easy as that to make your-
self, are back in the limelight for
the summer, and can be tossed to-
gether in any number of materials,
economical, practical and becoming.
Try one in calico, chambray, seer-
sucker or anything that strikes your
fancy.
If you plan to be somewhat of a
homebody this summer too, or will be
helping around your local Red Cross
outfit, here's an idea which might
have some appeal. It's a tie-around,
half-apron affair with eight large
pockets distributed evenly around the
top, in which to keep your essentials.
non-essentials, and anything else that
happens to be around.
Unless you're kind of handy with
your sewing materials, don't try to
monkey with anything tricky like
rayon-jersey, pure silk and so on. But
if you're lucky enough to be skillful
that way, hop to it, because with the
ever-present print craze you can
make a lot of cute things much
cheaper than you can buy them.
Needless to even mention, of course,
but here it is: you've got to remember
to do everything you can this year
to make your clothes last a little bit
longer than they would otherwise.
That's a way of doing your bit and
small though it is, it counts up in
terms of grand totals. Careful iron-
ing, careful washing, careful hanging
and altogether careful care, that's
the way to keep 'em, so how about it?
Smart Styles
Popular Now
For Summer
By TRUDY CLUJBB
This year more women than ever
will be attending summer school-
and what's more there will be only
two weeks after finals in which to
assemble a wardrobe suitable for
campus and classroom wear during
the blistering days. With al lthe
other things which will inevitably
have to be done during those two
weeks, the smart young woman will
begin thinking now about what she
can wear to classes during the sum-
mer and still be comfortable, cool and
look crisp.
No matter what you've heard about
women wearing shorts to classes on
other campuses during the very hot
weather, they're absolutely taboo
here. Michigan is noted for its con-
servatism in campus wear and there-
fore limits the wear of shorts to their
proper place-on the tennis court,
for bicycling and similar sports.
Emphasis On Skirts
Simple shirtwaist dresses of cham-
bray, pique or gingham can be worn
but more emphasis will be on cotton
dirndl skirts and jumper skirts worn
with blouses and cotton suits. Nation-
wide emphasis on saving has dictated
this trend.
Every woman has several cotton
blouses in her winter wardrobe and
therefore needs only to add a few
summer skirts which can usually be
worn more than once. She saves not
only in the amount she will have to
buy but also on laundry bills for cot-
ton dresses usually lose their crisp-
ness after one wearing.
Keep Dickies On Hand
Dickies, which are also found in
the winter wardrobe can be washed
out easily and quickly by hand and
will make a short sleeved cotton suit
look fresh even after it has been worn
several times.
Playsuits with skirts to match are
excellent if you have a two o'clock
class and a tennis. date at three-
fifteen. These outfits can be had
with a jumper skirt, a button-down-
the-front skirt or a dirndl skirt so
you can pick the type that you like
best or which best fits your figure.'
BY BETTY HARVEY
The newest color for spring is no
color at all! Although it sounds par-
adoxical, natural color is not only
one of the most, becoming but it
suits the wishes of the "Allah! Allah!"
priorities board. The perfect outfit
for summer afternoons in the city or
dinner at the country club is a na-
tural silk shantung tusser suit-both
rational and beautiful in that it is
made with a minimum of material
and with no dye, of course. Although
silk has been withdrawn from pro-
duction, the Government asks us to
use "availables" already woven.
Cotton Requisitioned
Speaking of the Government, it
has requisitioned a good deal of cot-
ton-but then, again, we grow a good
deal. Thus cotton and more likely
gingham, will be the fashion rage of
the season and checked gingham
promises to exceed any color in pop-
ularity. It will be used for every-
thing-wait and see! A clever pur-
chase would be a brown and white
checked swagger coat, hip length and
quilted which can be used as a topper
over a silk suit, as an evening wrap
and a beach coat. Bathing suits
will be run in multicolored gingham
checks and one which contrasts with
the coat would make up an attractive
beach ensemble.
The dress that will fill a half dozen
needs in your life is the beloved, un-
beatable - but not unchangeable
shirtwaist classic. This season this
classic fashion has had its face lifted
in the form of new, high, exciting
colors. Brilliant grain-yellow, emer-
ald green, deep sea blue and pimento
red are some of the formal colors
that, combined with flattering, soft-
er lines, tend to make the shirtwaist
dress a great deal less stern; and,
the shirtwaist dress in this sort of
non-casual color, when worn with a
big hat and gloves which match it
exactly, is pretty enough and elegant
enough for a summer high noon
wedding or for daylight dinner with
your soldier on leave.
Red, Red, Rede
RED, RED, RED for shoes! Red
can walk anywhere nowadays, be-
lieve it or not! For elegant evenings,
Priorities To Mean Lack Of Dye
Natural Gains As Color Favorite
red calf sandals with a dead white
pique gown. For play, red calfskin
moccasins, or leather-laced, calf-
ballet shoes, set on a wedge. For
that natural shantung silk tailored
suit, red seamless pumps of calfskin.
Have we convinced you?
Smoother than any "just a spring
dress," is a shantung suit-this time
in black. Although it sounds out of
step with the season, and a frilly,
frothy gilet of pink mouseline de soie
and a peplum line to the jacket and
you have one of the most stunning
date outfits made today. Vary the
gilet with a white dickie and that
dressier summer-job-dress-require-
ment is filled.
Play clothes colors must fulfill one
specification: they must be able to
be washed and washed again 'cause
they will be-a good idea is to buy
play dresses of a little better quality
than what' is usually purchased be-
cause priorities will rear its neces-
sary head too soon. Be sure they
have been tested as to fastness of
dyes. Dye hards are more important
than any color combination.
Shirt-Slip Designed
For Stern Restraint
Of Recalcitrant Tails
At long last, designers have found
the answer to the escaping shirt-
tail. This is the new shirt-slip which
combines the two in a one piece
garment.
This new discovery will not pull up
when you sit down, and breaking
shoulder straps are a thing of the
past. The slip is washable; and has
an adjustable hemline. Priced slight-
ly above the average priced slip, this
innovation is worth every penny paid
for it, as it. insures a smooth fit, and
peace of mind.
Naturally, you can't let the whole
idea get out of hand and start to
walk around with just your shirt-slit
on, deciding that in hot weather it's
enough. But for a guarantee of real
comfort under a skirt, we're rooting
for this.
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Cozy Coat For Breezy Evei
Is A Summertime
In spite of the fact that summer ;
nmgs
Necessity,
reminds one of blistery July days
and suffocating August nights, the
time will arrive when a breeze will
come up that will make you wish you
had more than your love to keep you
warm.
The problem of selecting a summer
coat is often a difficult one-it must-
n't be too warm, nor yet too cold.
You want one that you can wear any
place because the occasions for wear -
ing it won't come too often. In other
words, it would be nice to find one
that would be right for formal wear
as well as for traveling and everyday
activities.
Double-Duty Coat
A double-duty coat that retains its
popularity from yearipassed is the
classic brushed wool. Light in weight,
this porous material gives just the
right amount of warmth for cool
evenings. In white or pastels these
Hankies Of Today
Go South American
Flagrant, expressions of hemisphere
solidarity are the hankies (which are
fast becoming a dominant note in
accessories) which display colorful
South American motifs. The colors
are as vibrant as a Buenos Aires
morning and combine a fine blur of
blue, orange and shocking, etc.
Printed on fine lawn, they are said
to wear and wear. Brighten a -solid
color suit of gabardine or thin wool
with one boldly set in the breast
pocket.
coats provide the style that is desired.
A coat that will see much activity
from now until late fall is the sports
classic. Light weight wools in red,
yellow and blue are perennial fav-
orites that have proved their worth.
White For Summer
This same coat in white is perfect
for mid-summer nights-and days-
with only the risk of cleaning bills to
block its popularity.
Washable coats defeat the pur-
pose of warmth, and so arc designed
merely to add to your costume. Cot-
ton and linen suits thus take the
spotlight in this line, while redingotes
are still in line for town wear.
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MOTHER'S.
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Give pretty practicals and make
your gift a lasting one. Ex.
quisite sleek jersey slips -
smooth fitting under summer
cottons.
- HANKIES -0, aWhite
49
Oz. f
19 9
19-9
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19 99 el
fake sickers oeit of
Haystack LI Fe"S
See how De Liso Debs give town manners tor.
pleasantly rural Haystack Linens! Rough-
textured, natural-toned .. .9 perfect foi
for De Liso Debs' deft accents of brown.
Bvmper crop, ready now for the
woman other wornen watch."
S .95 f
19-9
19 9
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A COTTON WARDROBE is your coolest, smartest
most flattering choice from now on! And we have
dozens of new young cottons you'll want for daytime,
playtime, dance time . .
"Patio" dresses - gay wash-
ables in Good Neighbor colors
at $8.95. Junior sizes 9-15.
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For thuz golfer - I- tid 2-
piece chambrays, seersuck-
ers, and ginghams designed
for action from $4.00. Sizes
10-44,
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Cych
whe
shor
e fashions - free
eling culotte skirts, rett" over
ts, and slacks.
Cotton dance frocks - happy fullskirted frocks of
piqu6, swiss, and organdy from $10.95.
aIls
F l louncy cotton housecoats
from $4. Brunch coats, the
short version from $4.
Cotton suits of seersucker,
gingham, gabardine from
$7.95 to $16.95. Sizes 9-17,
10-40,
Playsuits - bewitching cot-
ton, all with separate skirts,
"Pell Mells" - the rainy
weather friend of cotton
gabardine is $7.95.
Cotton accessories - bags,
gloves, sox, hose.
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