THE MICHIGAN DAILY PAGE THREE Defense Women Give 'Shirt Off Back' For Priorities Dirndls, Pleats To Disappear Without Aid From Magicians; Armed Forces Are Responsible By JANET VEENBOER New low necklines, skirts shorter and shorter, no more dirndls or pleats -rumors and predictions are passed about through whispers, magazines, and newspapers, and behind it all: there is just one thing- Defense, Defense, DEFENSE!! The words come at us from every walk of life to remind us of the fighting that is going on in the Pacific waters. Women are being affected through' that thing nearest and dearest to the heart of each-that's fashion. Now in explaining a shortage clerks no longer say, "We're expecting a shipment soon," but rather, "We don't know when they'll be coming in." Leading department stores and' dress shops are getting in large ship- ments of cotton dresses and summer sport clothes so that racks will be full for the next few weeks of gay prints and beguiling formals. How- ever, although there are still large stocks on hand the time is not far off when women will find their very wardrobes rationed. In spite of the fact that actual rationing is in the distant future, buying will be more difficult this summer than in the past. With priorities on cotton for army sheets, on nylon for parachutes, and on dyes for war chemicals, women will find their tastes in fashion con- forming to the dictation of the war board. Because little dye will be used' in new clothes, the range of colors will be diminished; new suits and dresses will be shown in natural col- ors. Brilliant hues will no longer be so abundant, and beige and gray will be the patriotic thing to wear in- stead of red, white and blue. Most important is the way in which the actual cut and lines of the clothes will be affected by the developments' in the Far East. A firm rule is that a minimum amount of material be used for each individual garment. This would mean a conspicuous ab- sence of wide, flattering skirts made with either pleats or folds, and of unnecessary pockets and flaps which adorn so many of the summer cot- tons Still, fashion magazines and shops seem to be showing the same styles as ever, in spite of the talk and the warnings. Nevertheless, one evidence of priority action is in the new low necklines being shown in summer shirt waist classics. One example is a checked rayon crepe with a low sweetheart line that is made to be worn sans jewelry of any kind. Short skirts have always been popular in warm weather, so that no change will be evidenced along that line, but a question remains as to the possibili- ties of cutting the material in bath- ing suits. Nylon Is Now Knit Into New Sweaters Biggest news for sweater wearers is the introduction of nylon sweaters in popular styles and shades. They are claimed to be as snuggly as wool and much more practical for the allergy-affected. Like nylon stockings and girdles these new sweaters are soft and silky to touch, wash well and dry fast, and ought to wear well. The moths have not as yet reported on how they taste but it is hoped that these new sweat- ers give the little fellers indigestion. Is Byword Of Conservative St yles For Duration Tailored Suits Are All-In For Defense ,._. k,".x . ;.. g;:;.:r. '; ' / .:;,: . ti,; " ..._'. r t ii 2 i, i % S / Home-Made Clothes Ease. College Budget New Processed Chintz Makes Good Material For Beginners, Calico, Chambray Economical Taking it for granted that you're just a plain ordinary college woman, with just a plain ordinary budget for clothes, summer and otherwise, it might be thu deduced that you're going to find it a little difficult this year to find all the clothes you'd like. Maybe you're not a born seam- stress, (very few of us are), but if the above is the case .just hustle out the pioneer spirit, so-called, and take to making a few of your own cottons, etcetera. Certain materials, certain patterns, certain costumes take more readily to this hand-made idea than others, so let's investigate the matter. For example, there's a certain ma- terial called chintz, which takes more than readily to your own sewing ma- chine and what's more, to your own ideas of style and fashion whims. It's easily handled if you're not too skillful with the needle or machine, and the new, processed chintz is washable almost forever after. Be- sides, it's high in fashion's favor this season, for playsuit or for a fresh, flattering formal. Dirndls, easy as that to make your- self, are back in the limelight for the summer, and can be tossed to- gether in any number of materials, economical, practical and becoming. Try one in calico, chambray, seer- sucker or anything that strikes your fancy. If you plan to be somewhat of a homebody this summer too, or will be helping around your local Red Cross outfit, here's an idea which might have some appeal. It's a tie-around, half-apron affair with eight large pockets distributed evenly around the top, in which to keep your essentials. non-essentials, and anything else that happens to be around. Unless you're kind of handy with your sewing materials, don't try to monkey with anything tricky like rayon-jersey, pure silk and so on. But if you're lucky enough to be skillful that way, hop to it, because with the ever-present print craze you can make a lot of cute things much cheaper than you can buy them. Needless to even mention, of course, but here it is: you've got to remember to do everything you can this year to make your clothes last a little bit longer than they would otherwise. That's a way of doing your bit and small though it is, it counts up in terms of grand totals. Careful iron- ing, careful washing, careful hanging and altogether careful care, that's the way to keep 'em, so how about it? Smart Styles Popular Now For Summer By TRUDY CLUJBB This year more women than ever will be attending summer school- and what's more there will be only two weeks after finals in which to assemble a wardrobe suitable for campus and classroom wear during the blistering days. With al lthe other things which will inevitably have to be done during those two weeks, the smart young woman will begin thinking now about what she can wear to classes during the sum- mer and still be comfortable, cool and look crisp. No matter what you've heard about women wearing shorts to classes on other campuses during the very hot weather, they're absolutely taboo here. Michigan is noted for its con- servatism in campus wear and there- fore limits the wear of shorts to their proper place-on the tennis court, for bicycling and similar sports. Emphasis On Skirts Simple shirtwaist dresses of cham- bray, pique or gingham can be worn but more emphasis will be on cotton dirndl skirts and jumper skirts worn with blouses and cotton suits. Nation- wide emphasis on saving has dictated this trend. Every woman has several cotton blouses in her winter wardrobe and therefore needs only to add a few summer skirts which can usually be worn more than once. She saves not only in the amount she will have to buy but also on laundry bills for cot- ton dresses usually lose their crisp- ness after one wearing. Keep Dickies On Hand Dickies, which are also found in the winter wardrobe can be washed out easily and quickly by hand and will make a short sleeved cotton suit look fresh even after it has been worn several times. Playsuits with skirts to match are excellent if you have a two o'clock class and a tennis. date at three- fifteen. These outfits can be had with a jumper skirt, a button-down- the-front skirt or a dirndl skirt so you can pick the type that you like best or which best fits your figure.' BY BETTY HARVEY The newest color for spring is no color at all! Although it sounds par- adoxical, natural color is not only one of the most, becoming but it suits the wishes of the "Allah! Allah!" priorities board. The perfect outfit for summer afternoons in the city or dinner at the country club is a na- tural silk shantung tusser suit-both rational and beautiful in that it is made with a minimum of material and with no dye, of course. Although silk has been withdrawn from pro- duction, the Government asks us to use "availables" already woven. Cotton Requisitioned Speaking of the Government, it has requisitioned a good deal of cot- ton-but then, again, we grow a good deal. Thus cotton and more likely gingham, will be the fashion rage of the season and checked gingham promises to exceed any color in pop- ularity. It will be used for every- thing-wait and see! A clever pur- chase would be a brown and white checked swagger coat, hip length and quilted which can be used as a topper over a silk suit, as an evening wrap and a beach coat. Bathing suits will be run in multicolored gingham checks and one which contrasts with the coat would make up an attractive beach ensemble. The dress that will fill a half dozen needs in your life is the beloved, un- beatable - but not unchangeable shirtwaist classic. This season this classic fashion has had its face lifted in the form of new, high, exciting colors. Brilliant grain-yellow, emer- ald green, deep sea blue and pimento red are some of the formal colors that, combined with flattering, soft- er lines, tend to make the shirtwaist dress a great deal less stern; and, the shirtwaist dress in this sort of non-casual color, when worn with a big hat and gloves which match it exactly, is pretty enough and elegant enough for a summer high noon wedding or for daylight dinner with your soldier on leave. Red, Red, Rede RED, RED, RED for shoes! Red can walk anywhere nowadays, be- lieve it or not! For elegant evenings, Priorities To Mean Lack Of Dye Natural Gains As Color Favorite red calf sandals with a dead white pique gown. For play, red calfskin moccasins, or leather-laced, calf- ballet shoes, set on a wedge. For that natural shantung silk tailored suit, red seamless pumps of calfskin. Have we convinced you? Smoother than any "just a spring dress," is a shantung suit-this time in black. Although it sounds out of step with the season, and a frilly, frothy gilet of pink mouseline de soie and a peplum line to the jacket and you have one of the most stunning date outfits made today. Vary the gilet with a white dickie and that dressier summer-job-dress-require- ment is filled. Play clothes colors must fulfill one specification: they must be able to be washed and washed again 'cause they will be-a good idea is to buy play dresses of a little better quality than what' is usually purchased be- cause priorities will rear its neces- sary head too soon. Be sure they have been tested as to fastness of dyes. Dye hards are more important than any color combination. Shirt-Slip Designed For Stern Restraint Of Recalcitrant Tails At long last, designers have found the answer to the escaping shirt- tail. This is the new shirt-slip which combines the two in a one piece garment. This new discovery will not pull up when you sit down, and breaking shoulder straps are a thing of the past. The slip is washable; and has an adjustable hemline. Priced slight- ly above the average priced slip, this innovation is worth every penny paid for it, as it. insures a smooth fit, and peace of mind. Naturally, you can't let the whole idea get out of hand and start to walk around with just your shirt-slit on, deciding that in hot weather it's enough. But for a guarantee of real comfort under a skirt, we're rooting for this. t I i a f' :> < ; Cozy Coat For Breezy Evei Is A Summertime In spite of the fact that summer ; nmgs Necessity, reminds one of blistery July days and suffocating August nights, the time will arrive when a breeze will come up that will make you wish you had more than your love to keep you warm. The problem of selecting a summer coat is often a difficult one-it must- n't be too warm, nor yet too cold. You want one that you can wear any place because the occasions for wear - ing it won't come too often. In other words, it would be nice to find one that would be right for formal wear as well as for traveling and everyday activities. Double-Duty Coat A double-duty coat that retains its popularity from yearipassed is the classic brushed wool. Light in weight, this porous material gives just the right amount of warmth for cool evenings. In white or pastels these Hankies Of Today Go South American Flagrant, expressions of hemisphere solidarity are the hankies (which are fast becoming a dominant note in accessories) which display colorful South American motifs. The colors are as vibrant as a Buenos Aires morning and combine a fine blur of blue, orange and shocking, etc. Printed on fine lawn, they are said to wear and wear. Brighten a -solid color suit of gabardine or thin wool with one boldly set in the breast pocket. coats provide the style that is desired. A coat that will see much activity from now until late fall is the sports classic. Light weight wools in red, yellow and blue are perennial fav- orites that have proved their worth. White For Summer This same coat in white is perfect for mid-summer nights-and days- with only the risk of cleaning bills to block its popularity. Washable coats defeat the pur- pose of warmth, and so arc designed merely to add to your costume. Cot- ton and linen suits thus take the spotlight in this line, while redingotes are still in line for town wear. r ~~., , 9 Ir rl I MOTHER'S. . Y . Give pretty practicals and make your gift a lasting one. Ex. quisite sleek jersey slips - smooth fitting under summer cottons. - HANKIES -0, aWhite 49 Oz. f 19 9 19-9 j.. -9 19 99 el fake sickers oeit of Haystack LI Fe"S See how De Liso Debs give town manners tor. pleasantly rural Haystack Linens! Rough- textured, natural-toned .. .9 perfect foi for De Liso Debs' deft accents of brown. Bvmper crop, ready now for the woman other wornen watch." S .95 f 19-9 19 9 / / J - t ( - ' ~ ~ ,,, .. '> . A COTTON WARDROBE is your coolest, smartest most flattering choice from now on! And we have dozens of new young cottons you'll want for daytime, playtime, dance time . . "Patio" dresses - gay wash- ables in Good Neighbor colors at $8.95. Junior sizes 9-15. 5 .. ._ s For thuz golfer - I- tid 2- piece chambrays, seersuck- ers, and ginghams designed for action from $4.00. Sizes 10-44, ., ii Aoe Cych whe shor e fashions - free eling culotte skirts, rett" over ts, and slacks. Cotton dance frocks - happy fullskirted frocks of piqu6, swiss, and organdy from $10.95. aIls F l louncy cotton housecoats from $4. Brunch coats, the short version from $4. Cotton suits of seersucker, gingham, gabardine from $7.95 to $16.95. Sizes 9-17, 10-40, Playsuits - bewitching cot- ton, all with separate skirts, "Pell Mells" - the rainy weather friend of cotton gabardine is $7.95. Cotton accessories - bags, gloves, sox, hose. I.?+ } V' I I I