TUESDAY, NOV. 24, 1942
Designers Style Coat
With Forced Ingenuity
Sportscoats Will Have Straight-Draped Backs,
Low Buttons, Flapless Pockets, and Sleeves
THE MICHIGAN DAILY
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By TORQUEMADA
1922 Campus Saw a Dude' BDMOG
Since Uncle Sam has supplanted
Esquire as fashion dictator for men's
styles, the clothing designers have
been hard at work combining gov-
ernment regulations with good taste
and the smart fall and winter lines
of 1942 well attest to their ingenuity.
Sportscoats will be marked by
straight-draped backs, lower-placed
buttons, and flapless pockets. Patch
pockets, open back seams, and extra
long draped coats are out for the
duration. However, while coat
lengths have been cut slightly they
are still far longer than the models
of two years ago. Camel hair and
horizontal striped models are this
year's favorites and while shetlands
and all-wools are still available they
will be missing from the market by
next year.
Brown is the leading color, and
even though the supremacy of the
three-buttoned drape model con-
tinues, the very latest fashions seem
to indicate that the two-buttoned
model is on the comeback trail to
assuming its former popularity. The
U.S. has still not followed a trend
long in evidence in both England and
Canada where bolder colors and more
outstanding patterns have been the
best sellers.
In pants fashions it is becoming
more and more apparent that as gov-
ernment regulations as to the amount
of virgin wool in fabrics increases,
o Pipe Priority
as Men Puff Oni
Put this in your pipe and smoke,
it: No priorities on pipes as yet!
Whether your male puffer likes his
pipes with honey coated bowl, pre-
smoked, with a long stem or a thin
one, his needs will be fulfilled this
Christmas.
Only new legitimate find on this
year's horizon is the long, thin-
stemmed variety which protects your
throat because the smoke has such, a
long way to travel to' your mouth that'
it is completely filtered by the titne
it reaches it.
For the younger fellows who aren't.
particular, corn cob, bullet shaped,
and other odd species are still on the
market. The important consideration
in buying a pipe these days should be
its durability.
rayons are coming into vogue as
substitute material. As for woole
no pleats and cuffs is still a standi
order. Solid colors are the popu
choice, and coverts and gabardi
are the leading woolen materials. T
trend these days is definitely aw,
from "flashy" check combinatioi
Narrow waistbands and tapering na
row cuffless bottoms are in eviden
on the new styles.
Sweaters Lead
Thi's Winter's
Fashion Needs
Caribou, Selbu and
Argyles Mean Colorful
Ruggedness, Warmth
Boxes, boxes, boxes! are pouring
into town. No, they're not loaded
with wear 'em, tear 'em, compare 'em
stuff but with bright, colorful sweat-
ers for winter.
Leading the box parade are crates
jammed full of those luxuriously
warm and rugged Caribou and Selbu
patterns that promise to take a prom-
inent place in the wardrobes of those
that like to have their winter sport
in big; cold doses. Blue with red,
maroon, and green will be the most
popular colors in the Caribous design
while the Selbu pattern will be found
mostly in navy blue editions.
You can be sure, too, that there
will be plenty of those up and coming
argyle patterns in stock also. Argyle
sweater and sox sets bid fair to
adorn many of the best dressed cam-
pus style plates as do sweater and
sox combinations of blended camel
hair.
Of course .one can't overlook those
old standbys-plain cashmeres and
shetlands. Cashmeres with V-necks
and Shetlands with crew necks prom-
ise to go as strong as ever.'
Not only will the old favorites hold
their own but the Clark Gable "tur-
tle neck" of past history threatens to
make a strong comeback. They are
warm and make* a swell present for
air wardens, sportsmen and outdoor
workers.
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Sf-HIS YEAR people all over this supplement have written about how gas
rationing will affect the motor velocity of Donder and Blitzen.
Every year Christmas is a series of ads in Time magazine sponsored by
the larger corporations, containing a young child clad daintily in a snug
pair of white Doctor Dentons (which the child obviously would like to burn
in favor of a nice cowboy sleeping suit), kneeling at his bedside and asking
Santa, "Please Santa bring back brother Bill from the Army, and please,
beat the autocratic conceptions of Nazi nihilism." This of course, after
the New York Sun's editorial on Santa Claus has seen several reprints, all
prefaced by the following editor's note, "Every year, mothers have worried
about telling their children that there is no Santa Claus. We hope that the
following reprint of this famous little piece will solve their problems.
It has ours."
EVERY YEAR all the high schools and junior high schools and grade
schools in the country will have their halls filled with youngsters walk-
ing down the halls and singing Christmas carols. Number one on the
Tucson, Arizona, hit parade will continue to be "Dashing Through The
Snow." And Martin Luther will turn in his grave wailing about "Squeaking
youngsters who boy my greatness."
AM ALMOST SURE that this year there will be an innovation on the
radio. Scouts report that Lionel Barrymore will play Scrooge in a radio
adaptation of "Christmas Carol," by Charles Dickens. And on Christmas
day every radio program.in the country will feature a happy Christmas day
at home with your favorite soap-opera characters. Which will mean that
after every program during the day, the people whom you have come to love
throughout the year, will jump out of character for a minute between the
organ music and the final commercial to "Sincerely wish you a Merry
Christmas." In the meantime the funnies will have Dick Tracy interrupt
his pursuit of the Snark for one day to join with the cartoonist in wassailing
the all of us.
AND ON THE RADIO, the choir will be humming Freddy Martin's trans-
scription of Tschaikowsky, while the announcer breathes softly," "Let us
on this day, take a pause from the cares of the world, and celebrate the
glorious festival of mankind-still conscious of our resolve to crush the
forces of evil."
AND EVERY YEAR, on Christmas day, your columnist can still be seen,
standing on the nearest hilltop wailing his song of blood lust, and gently
removing the hairs from his head one-by-one.
By NETTA SIEGEL
Now he's smooth, or thinks he is,
but twenty years ago, the Michigan
man was a dude, or tried to be.
His coat then, as advertised by the
same stores that today cater to cam-
pus "sharpies," was long-two, three
or four button-but he would have
frowned on the drape shape. His
favorite model was "body-tracing."
Sport jackets were tucked in the back
and belted all around. And, just to
make it convenient, they had four
patch pockets, extra large, with flaps.
Lapels were, to put it mildly, short,
ending about five inches below the
Adam's apple.
Scant Pants
Trousers were slim then, the pencil
silhouette, with narrow cuffs or (the
modern touch) none. But one less
conservative store boasted in capitals
BELL BOTTOM TROUSERS. For
golf, and everyone seems to have
played golf, knickers were the thing,
not the long baggy ones but just to
the knees and no looser than need be.
Latest addition to the wardrobe of
the 1922 BMOC was the "new crepe
soft shirt with collar attached," at
least what there was of the collar,
which was graphically described as
the "short front collar,"
The gentlemen of the time, and all
college men were assumed to be
gentlemen, wore headgear, which
meant hats or caps. Caps always for
golf, but if our hero was really sport-
ing he dared to wear it on campus
too. Hats had a wide "popular con-
trasting band" and a "becoming roll
brim." We are told that "filbert" was
the preferred shade, but "seal" and
"moth' were popular too.
When Men Were Men
Men, when men were men, didn't
wear ties; they wore scarfs or cravats.
The "Bat-Wing" bow was not only
"the rage in England" but a common
sight in "dear Ann Arbor town,"
striped in the old school colors.
Topcoats ran to the two extremes:
there was the belted, or bag-tied-in-
the-middle, style; and then there was
the loose, or just-plain-bag, type.
Both tended to minimize the shoul-
ders and give the impression of a
solid foundation.
But our 1922 fashion plate wasn't
always rugged. Soph prom was formal.
then as now. No mention is made of
full dress, but the latest tuxedoes
were of "herringbone all wool fabric,"
though we can't quite picture'it.
Shoes have changed little, except
for dropping the flaps off the sports
models; and the saddle oxford was
an innovation and pretty radical.
This then is Mr. Michigan of 20
years ago, with a cane, no less, slim,
trim, and smooth.
Oxford Cloth Shirt
Is Popular Item
Though khaki and navy blue have
solved the what-to-wear from the
shirt department problem for a large
number of men, those left behind will
welcome this useful item under the
Christmas tree.
Currently ranking high on the pop-
ularity list are the oxford cloth shirts,
with button-down collar, outstand-
ing in the new oyster shade, tan, and
the always acceptable white. They
are comfortable and may be worn
suitably with sport clothes, serving
well as a background for plain ties
in a silk knit, or plaid ties in wool
knit.
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NICOTINE PROTECTORS:
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40 Per Cent on Gift List Will Be
Pleased with Cigarette Case
By MARGARET FRANK
More than 40 per cent of the people
on your shopping list smoke cigarettes
-the national census says they do,
and a majority of them like their to-
bacco in fairly perfect cylindrical
shape. So gift questions are answered
with the cigarette case.
Most popular this year are the
leather cases with military insignia
stamped on them. A crest for every
branch of the service is available and
the especially designed flat cases will
avoid bulges in uniform pockets.
Small stocks of metal cases remain
in silver ready to be made more per-
sonal with initials. A few cases have
low
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SMART GIFT SUGESiTlON
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It's smart to give him a Dobh hat : .:So easy, too.
Arrange with us to sond him a Gift
Certificate and a miniature hat tuoked in a handsome
' Handicase"
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He'll brag to
everyone how smart you are! But if you're really
clever, you'll swipe the "Handicase"
while he plays with the rminiature hat. (The "Handi-
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Box Coat Is
Still Popular
This Year's Classic
Has Been Shortened
Smart - comfortable - casual and
warm are the four adjectives designed
to fit the desired overcoat to baffle
winter winds and weather.
For smartness the box coat was
originated. Born with its tailored
lines was comfortable looseness which
has made the box coat the most pop~-
ular campus favorite. This year's
classic coat has been shortened
slightly to a new 43-inch length.
A bright dark blue with just
enough teal in it to be sharply dis-
tinguished from navy blue is making
serious inroads into the tan-beige
field. This new blue is selling almost
as rapidly as the traditional college
tan.
The coat has three different styles
that adapt it to every person's needs.
The fly front coat with the styled
cape collar and vertical pockets vies
with the single-breasted three-but-
ton coat with the seamed back.
Most popular is the coat with the
notched lapels, set in sleeves and
pockets stitched to resemble the old
patch pocket. It is single-breasted,
the shorter length and masquerades
under various trade names such as
townster topper, sportster and city
sport.
lighters attached, but these are no
longer being produced. After these
are gone-there just aren't any more.
For the gregarious soul who likes to
flick open a box for his many friends
there are a quantity of metal and
wooden boxes. One carved gadget an-
nounces to the surrounding popula-
tion "cigarettes" in staggered letters.
The touch of a finger snaps into
view a lighted cigarette from a bronze
box. Particularly impressive is the
box which when opened displays a
full carton of cigarettes. The impor-
tant business man would have room
for that on his conference desk-it is
especially designed to impress visiting
directors.
The triple treat box has compart-
ments for tobacco, cigarettes and ci-
gars. Equipped with. everything for
the smoker's happiness this job's chief
use is for exhibition purposes.
Extremely useful and attractive are
the plastic cases. Made in clear colors,
they can be gotten either in the flat
design or in the square case into
which a whole package fits.
Leather cases are being made more
attractive. A shiny flat leather case
in black or natural leather has been
devised for formal use. Silver mono-
grame add to its smartness.
Beautiful gifts for women are the
combination compact-cigarette cases.
Small, a concealed drawer slides out
revealing the lady's nicotine supply.
Replacing metal cases are tapestry or
petit point cases whose pastel colors
blend with any costume.
Watches Are Out -
Makers Are Busy.
So you thought a waterproof watch
would be a practical gift for that
man in the service this year! Or
were you thinking of a clock as a
as a gift? Either would, of course,
be very acceptable, but may we warn
you now-you may have a little diffi-
culty in finding "just what you want."
At the present time the important
manufacturers of watches such as
Hamilton and Elgin are engaged in
war work. Many such factories are
now making precision instruments
for planes.
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cSKkISng S Kawy ertAESi
That ski fan on your Christmas list wilIeSaigi lasafvrt.Adi
s lots of fun with a bright new pair of
appreciate a new set of skis from e sktsfn Moe's.Cmad e u
fine quality stock. Come in and let ussktsfo e'.Cmanseou
complete selection of fine skates in a
help you select a set
sizes.
BADMINTON
BOWLINGO
Now that cold weather
1" Bowling fan always we- has com badminton
m co*me gfs of bowling 1has come indoors. The
equipment. A new pair of whole family will have
bowling shoes, for instance, fu ih an wind
is bound to please. Moe is badmnton set. Moe,
able to furnish all types of has _ a large stock of
bowling needs.- these sets.
S SKI SU ITS A nice warm ski suit or Jntzen "ORIGINAL"
and SWEAT ERS Sweaer is sure to be wel received on Christmas.
case" makes a marvelous powder
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or cigarette box.) When he cashes the certificate for a
real Dobbs he'll have a fine hat of
his own selection.
GIFTS ... for Men
. . . from the store all men admire!
Makc;him -p
.Wiuth . . .
TIES A Special Department for
ROBES
SHIRTS Gifts for Men in Uniform
PAJAMAS
GLOVES
JACKETS TOILET KITS SWEATERS
BELTSETMONEY BELTS ARMY SHIRTS
SWEATERS F4-- T'1 RT~'9M
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