TUESDAY, NOV. 24, 1942 Designers Style Coat With Forced Ingenuity Sportscoats Will Have Straight-Draped Backs, Low Buttons, Flapless Pockets, and Sleeves THE MICHIGAN DAILY F&t TREt sa ns, ing lar nes "he vay ns. ar- nce _ I r i. ,4 AXE to pnd By TORQUEMADA 1922 Campus Saw a Dude' BDMOG Since Uncle Sam has supplanted Esquire as fashion dictator for men's styles, the clothing designers have been hard at work combining gov- ernment regulations with good taste and the smart fall and winter lines of 1942 well attest to their ingenuity. Sportscoats will be marked by straight-draped backs, lower-placed buttons, and flapless pockets. Patch pockets, open back seams, and extra long draped coats are out for the duration. However, while coat lengths have been cut slightly they are still far longer than the models of two years ago. Camel hair and horizontal striped models are this year's favorites and while shetlands and all-wools are still available they will be missing from the market by next year. Brown is the leading color, and even though the supremacy of the three-buttoned drape model con- tinues, the very latest fashions seem to indicate that the two-buttoned model is on the comeback trail to assuming its former popularity. The U.S. has still not followed a trend long in evidence in both England and Canada where bolder colors and more outstanding patterns have been the best sellers. In pants fashions it is becoming more and more apparent that as gov- ernment regulations as to the amount of virgin wool in fabrics increases, o Pipe Priority as Men Puff Oni Put this in your pipe and smoke, it: No priorities on pipes as yet! Whether your male puffer likes his pipes with honey coated bowl, pre- smoked, with a long stem or a thin one, his needs will be fulfilled this Christmas. Only new legitimate find on this year's horizon is the long, thin- stemmed variety which protects your throat because the smoke has such, a long way to travel to' your mouth that' it is completely filtered by the titne it reaches it. For the younger fellows who aren't. particular, corn cob, bullet shaped, and other odd species are still on the market. The important consideration in buying a pipe these days should be its durability. rayons are coming into vogue as substitute material. As for woole no pleats and cuffs is still a standi order. Solid colors are the popu choice, and coverts and gabardi are the leading woolen materials. T trend these days is definitely aw, from "flashy" check combinatioi Narrow waistbands and tapering na row cuffless bottoms are in eviden on the new styles. Sweaters Lead Thi's Winter's Fashion Needs Caribou, Selbu and Argyles Mean Colorful Ruggedness, Warmth Boxes, boxes, boxes! are pouring into town. No, they're not loaded with wear 'em, tear 'em, compare 'em stuff but with bright, colorful sweat- ers for winter. Leading the box parade are crates jammed full of those luxuriously warm and rugged Caribou and Selbu patterns that promise to take a prom- inent place in the wardrobes of those that like to have their winter sport in big; cold doses. Blue with red, maroon, and green will be the most popular colors in the Caribous design while the Selbu pattern will be found mostly in navy blue editions. You can be sure, too, that there will be plenty of those up and coming argyle patterns in stock also. Argyle sweater and sox sets bid fair to adorn many of the best dressed cam- pus style plates as do sweater and sox combinations of blended camel hair. Of course .one can't overlook those old standbys-plain cashmeres and shetlands. Cashmeres with V-necks and Shetlands with crew necks prom- ise to go as strong as ever.' Not only will the old favorites hold their own but the Clark Gable "tur- tle neck" of past history threatens to make a strong comeback. They are warm and make* a swell present for air wardens, sportsmen and outdoor workers. i Sf-HIS YEAR people all over this supplement have written about how gas rationing will affect the motor velocity of Donder and Blitzen. Every year Christmas is a series of ads in Time magazine sponsored by the larger corporations, containing a young child clad daintily in a snug pair of white Doctor Dentons (which the child obviously would like to burn in favor of a nice cowboy sleeping suit), kneeling at his bedside and asking Santa, "Please Santa bring back brother Bill from the Army, and please, beat the autocratic conceptions of Nazi nihilism." This of course, after the New York Sun's editorial on Santa Claus has seen several reprints, all prefaced by the following editor's note, "Every year, mothers have worried about telling their children that there is no Santa Claus. We hope that the following reprint of this famous little piece will solve their problems. It has ours." EVERY YEAR all the high schools and junior high schools and grade schools in the country will have their halls filled with youngsters walk- ing down the halls and singing Christmas carols. Number one on the Tucson, Arizona, hit parade will continue to be "Dashing Through The Snow." And Martin Luther will turn in his grave wailing about "Squeaking youngsters who boy my greatness." AM ALMOST SURE that this year there will be an innovation on the radio. Scouts report that Lionel Barrymore will play Scrooge in a radio adaptation of "Christmas Carol," by Charles Dickens. And on Christmas day every radio program.in the country will feature a happy Christmas day at home with your favorite soap-opera characters. Which will mean that after every program during the day, the people whom you have come to love throughout the year, will jump out of character for a minute between the organ music and the final commercial to "Sincerely wish you a Merry Christmas." In the meantime the funnies will have Dick Tracy interrupt his pursuit of the Snark for one day to join with the cartoonist in wassailing the all of us. AND ON THE RADIO, the choir will be humming Freddy Martin's trans- scription of Tschaikowsky, while the announcer breathes softly," "Let us on this day, take a pause from the cares of the world, and celebrate the glorious festival of mankind-still conscious of our resolve to crush the forces of evil." AND EVERY YEAR, on Christmas day, your columnist can still be seen, standing on the nearest hilltop wailing his song of blood lust, and gently removing the hairs from his head one-by-one. By NETTA SIEGEL Now he's smooth, or thinks he is, but twenty years ago, the Michigan man was a dude, or tried to be. His coat then, as advertised by the same stores that today cater to cam- pus "sharpies," was long-two, three or four button-but he would have frowned on the drape shape. His favorite model was "body-tracing." Sport jackets were tucked in the back and belted all around. And, just to make it convenient, they had four patch pockets, extra large, with flaps. Lapels were, to put it mildly, short, ending about five inches below the Adam's apple. Scant Pants Trousers were slim then, the pencil silhouette, with narrow cuffs or (the modern touch) none. But one less conservative store boasted in capitals BELL BOTTOM TROUSERS. For golf, and everyone seems to have played golf, knickers were the thing, not the long baggy ones but just to the knees and no looser than need be. Latest addition to the wardrobe of the 1922 BMOC was the "new crepe soft shirt with collar attached," at least what there was of the collar, which was graphically described as the "short front collar," The gentlemen of the time, and all college men were assumed to be gentlemen, wore headgear, which meant hats or caps. Caps always for golf, but if our hero was really sport- ing he dared to wear it on campus too. Hats had a wide "popular con- trasting band" and a "becoming roll brim." We are told that "filbert" was the preferred shade, but "seal" and "moth' were popular too. When Men Were Men Men, when men were men, didn't wear ties; they wore scarfs or cravats. The "Bat-Wing" bow was not only "the rage in England" but a common sight in "dear Ann Arbor town," striped in the old school colors. Topcoats ran to the two extremes: there was the belted, or bag-tied-in- the-middle, style; and then there was the loose, or just-plain-bag, type. Both tended to minimize the shoul- ders and give the impression of a solid foundation. But our 1922 fashion plate wasn't always rugged. Soph prom was formal. then as now. No mention is made of full dress, but the latest tuxedoes were of "herringbone all wool fabric," though we can't quite picture'it. Shoes have changed little, except for dropping the flaps off the sports models; and the saddle oxford was an innovation and pretty radical. This then is Mr. Michigan of 20 years ago, with a cane, no less, slim, trim, and smooth. Oxford Cloth Shirt Is Popular Item Though khaki and navy blue have solved the what-to-wear from the shirt department problem for a large number of men, those left behind will welcome this useful item under the Christmas tree. Currently ranking high on the pop- ularity list are the oxford cloth shirts, with button-down collar, outstand- ing in the new oyster shade, tan, and the always acceptable white. They are comfortable and may be worn suitably with sport clothes, serving well as a background for plain ties in a silk knit, or plaid ties in wool knit. i NICOTINE PROTECTORS: I 40 Per Cent on Gift List Will Be Pleased with Cigarette Case By MARGARET FRANK More than 40 per cent of the people on your shopping list smoke cigarettes -the national census says they do, and a majority of them like their to- bacco in fairly perfect cylindrical shape. So gift questions are answered with the cigarette case. Most popular this year are the leather cases with military insignia stamped on them. A crest for every branch of the service is available and the especially designed flat cases will avoid bulges in uniform pockets. Small stocks of metal cases remain in silver ready to be made more per- sonal with initials. A few cases have low I SMART GIFT SUGESiTlON /9 ,G - C-0 q / It's smart to give him a Dobh hat : .:So easy, too. Arrange with us to sond him a Gift Certificate and a miniature hat tuoked in a handsome ' Handicase" .. . _ 'K He'll brag to everyone how smart you are! But if you're really clever, you'll swipe the "Handicase" while he plays with the rminiature hat. (The "Handi- I . 1 1 7 Box Coat Is Still Popular This Year's Classic Has Been Shortened Smart - comfortable - casual and warm are the four adjectives designed to fit the desired overcoat to baffle winter winds and weather. For smartness the box coat was originated. Born with its tailored lines was comfortable looseness which has made the box coat the most pop~- ular campus favorite. This year's classic coat has been shortened slightly to a new 43-inch length. A bright dark blue with just enough teal in it to be sharply dis- tinguished from navy blue is making serious inroads into the tan-beige field. This new blue is selling almost as rapidly as the traditional college tan. The coat has three different styles that adapt it to every person's needs. The fly front coat with the styled cape collar and vertical pockets vies with the single-breasted three-but- ton coat with the seamed back. Most popular is the coat with the notched lapels, set in sleeves and pockets stitched to resemble the old patch pocket. It is single-breasted, the shorter length and masquerades under various trade names such as townster topper, sportster and city sport. lighters attached, but these are no longer being produced. After these are gone-there just aren't any more. For the gregarious soul who likes to flick open a box for his many friends there are a quantity of metal and wooden boxes. One carved gadget an- nounces to the surrounding popula- tion "cigarettes" in staggered letters. The touch of a finger snaps into view a lighted cigarette from a bronze box. Particularly impressive is the box which when opened displays a full carton of cigarettes. The impor- tant business man would have room for that on his conference desk-it is especially designed to impress visiting directors. The triple treat box has compart- ments for tobacco, cigarettes and ci- gars. Equipped with. everything for the smoker's happiness this job's chief use is for exhibition purposes. Extremely useful and attractive are the plastic cases. Made in clear colors, they can be gotten either in the flat design or in the square case into which a whole package fits. Leather cases are being made more attractive. A shiny flat leather case in black or natural leather has been devised for formal use. Silver mono- grame add to its smartness. Beautiful gifts for women are the combination compact-cigarette cases. Small, a concealed drawer slides out revealing the lady's nicotine supply. Replacing metal cases are tapestry or petit point cases whose pastel colors blend with any costume. Watches Are Out - Makers Are Busy. So you thought a waterproof watch would be a practical gift for that man in the service this year! Or were you thinking of a clock as a as a gift? Either would, of course, be very acceptable, but may we warn you now-you may have a little diffi- culty in finding "just what you want." At the present time the important manufacturers of watches such as Hamilton and Elgin are engaged in war work. Many such factories are now making precision instruments for planes. 9r 44 -4 and W ME N A rr XiA cSKkISng S Kawy ertAESi That ski fan on your Christmas list wilIeSaigi lasafvrt.Adi s lots of fun with a bright new pair of appreciate a new set of skis from e sktsfn Moe's.Cmad e u fine quality stock. Come in and let ussktsfo e'.Cmanseou complete selection of fine skates in a help you select a set sizes. BADMINTON BOWLINGO Now that cold weather 1" Bowling fan always we- has com badminton m co*me gfs of bowling 1has come indoors. The equipment. A new pair of whole family will have bowling shoes, for instance, fu ih an wind is bound to please. Moe is badmnton set. Moe, able to furnish all types of has _ a large stock of bowling needs.- these sets. S SKI SU ITS A nice warm ski suit or Jntzen "ORIGINAL" and SWEAT ERS Sweaer is sure to be wel received on Christmas. case" makes a marvelous powder 1 S = '1 i . or cigarette box.) When he cashes the certificate for a real Dobbs he'll have a fine hat of his own selection. GIFTS ... for Men . . . from the store all men admire! Makc;him -p .Wiuth . . . TIES A Special Department for ROBES SHIRTS Gifts for Men in Uniform PAJAMAS GLOVES JACKETS TOILET KITS SWEATERS BELTSETMONEY BELTS ARMY SHIRTS SWEATERS F4-- T'1 RT~'9M . .