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February 05, 2009 - Image 46

Resource type:
The Detroit Jewish News, 2009-02-05

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all's fare

kes area dining that is casual, friendly and delicious.


The Keego Harbor area of my youth was a place where
we could wander into unpretentious restaurants in swim
shorts and flip-flops, reeking of Hawaiian Tropic.
The area has certainly changed some, but the casual
feel and friendly service that I remember from places like
Mitch's and the L.A. Grill remain.
Such was the case on my recent visit to Modern Food
& Spirits. The slight strip mall that houses this restaurant
was nondescript. But once inside, the pleasing colors and
decor and the smoke-free environment made us feel right
at home. Everyone in this place wore a smile — from the
hostess to our waitress to the bartender who came by to
offer a second glass of wine.
Owner-chefs Francis and Kim Stanton envisioned
Modern as a friendly, casual eatery where diners could
come and get tasty and interesting dishes without break-
ing the bank.
Our evening started with some wine, offered in glasses
of 3 or 5 ounces or by the bottle. Prices are reasonable,
and bottles also may be purchased retail. The menu
includes a dozen martinis and a lengthy beer list.
Looking at the appetizers, we settled on the pair of
Lentil Patty Sliders (pictured above) topped with tomato,


B 8 •



cucumber, hummus and a sundried spread. The tast
excellent and unusual, with a warm hint of cumin. Ot
appetizers include smoked salmon, cold spicy peanut
noodles and grilled veggie quesadillas.
Entrees come with soup or salad for an additional $3,
so I chose a cup of Tomato Basil with Mascarpone, which
our waitress noted as most popular. This creamy soup was
light, sweet and perfectly spiced. My dining companion
chose a Spinach Salad topped with Asian pear, feta, apri-
cots and sunflower seeds. It was dressed perfectly and full
of flavor.
Craving some red meat, I considered the Slow Roasted
Brisket with barbecue sauce and crispy onions but instead
chose the Braised Beef Short Ribs. The meat on these
ribs fell right off the bone. The taste was decidedly beefy,
and the accompanying sweet-potato fries were delicious.
My dining companion chose the house favorite Pan
Seared Whitefish, served with a chive potato cake atop
a lemon and Riesling reduction. Our waitress said that
people come from miles around for this whitefish, and we
could taste why.
Other entrees include a Pan Seared Chicken Breast,
Turkey Meatballs Marinara and a daily vegetarian special.

Modern Food & Spirits

1535 Cass Lake Road • Keego Harbor, MI 48320

(248) 681-4231 • www.modernfoodspirits.com

Starters: $7

Soups/Salads: $5 a la carte / $3 with entree

Sandwiches: $8

Entrees: $13-$19

Hours: Monday-Sunday dinner: 4-9 p.m.

(open later Fridays and Saturdays)

Monday-Saturday lunch: 11 a.m.-4 p.m.

On the lighter side, Modem offers several salads and
sandwiches, including turkey or beef burgers and chicken
or tuna salad.
For dessert, we shared a hot fudge brownie topped
with vanilla ice cream, which was a perfect ending to a
great meal.
At the time of our visit, Modem was offering daily
"Recession Specials," including a three-course, prix fixe
menu for $20 per person, and "Comfort Food" Sundays.

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