all's fare kes area dining that is casual, friendly and delicious. BY DAV D MOSS PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE SAAN The Keego Harbor area of my youth was a place where we could wander into unpretentious restaurants in swim shorts and flip-flops, reeking of Hawaiian Tropic. The area has certainly changed some, but the casual feel and friendly service that I remember from places like Mitch's and the L.A. Grill remain. Such was the case on my recent visit to Modern Food & Spirits. The slight strip mall that houses this restaurant was nondescript. But once inside, the pleasing colors and decor and the smoke-free environment made us feel right at home. Everyone in this place wore a smile — from the hostess to our waitress to the bartender who came by to offer a second glass of wine. Owner-chefs Francis and Kim Stanton envisioned Modern as a friendly, casual eatery where diners could come and get tasty and interesting dishes without break- ing the bank. Our evening started with some wine, offered in glasses of 3 or 5 ounces or by the bottle. Prices are reasonable, and bottles also may be purchased retail. The menu includes a dozen martinis and a lengthy beer list. Looking at the appetizers, we settled on the pair of Lentil Patty Sliders (pictured above) topped with tomato, . B 8 • FEBRUARY 2009 • platinum cucumber, hummus and a sundried spread. The tast excellent and unusual, with a warm hint of cumin. Ot appetizers include smoked salmon, cold spicy peanut noodles and grilled veggie quesadillas. Entrees come with soup or salad for an additional $3, so I chose a cup of Tomato Basil with Mascarpone, which our waitress noted as most popular. This creamy soup was light, sweet and perfectly spiced. My dining companion chose a Spinach Salad topped with Asian pear, feta, apri- cots and sunflower seeds. It was dressed perfectly and full of flavor. Craving some red meat, I considered the Slow Roasted Brisket with barbecue sauce and crispy onions but instead chose the Braised Beef Short Ribs. The meat on these ribs fell right off the bone. The taste was decidedly beefy, and the accompanying sweet-potato fries were delicious. My dining companion chose the house favorite Pan Seared Whitefish, served with a chive potato cake atop a lemon and Riesling reduction. Our waitress said that people come from miles around for this whitefish, and we could taste why. Other entrees include a Pan Seared Chicken Breast, Turkey Meatballs Marinara and a daily vegetarian special. Modern Food & Spirits 1535 Cass Lake Road • Keego Harbor, MI 48320 (248) 681-4231 • www.modernfoodspirits.com Starters: $7 Soups/Salads: $5 a la carte / $3 with entree Sandwiches: $8 Entrees: $13-$19 Hours: Monday-Sunday dinner: 4-9 p.m. (open later Fridays and Saturdays) Monday-Saturday lunch: 11 a.m.-4 p.m. On the lighter side, Modem offers several salads and sandwiches, including turkey or beef burgers and chicken or tuna salad. For dessert, we shared a hot fudge brownie topped with vanilla ice cream, which was a perfect ending to a great meal. At the time of our visit, Modem was offering daily "Recession Specials," including a three-course, prix fixe menu for $20 per person, and "Comfort Food" Sundays.