Arts Life
Food
Fresh Latkes
There's nothing like a tradition of homemade, straight from the frying pan.
ANNABEL COHEN
Special to the Jewish News
T
here's nothing like fresh
latkes. It's Chanukah! And
every year, I get the same
question: Can you make latkes in
advance? My answer is always an
emphatic, "No!"
It's not true of course. Almost every
food may be made ahead of serving
time. There's a caveat, however. If
you prepare latkes in advance, they
simply will not taste as good as if you
fried them up and serve them imme-
diately. Like most fried foods —
think French fries — precooking
results in a less-than-perfect flavor
and texture.
Fine, you say. You don't like the
greasy smell in your house, clothes
and hair that comes from last-second
frying. And you don't want to be the
one working while everyone else is
having fun. So giving up flavor is a
price you're willing to pay for ease.
Pity. Because making latkes and
eating them hot from skillet is a
unique experience. The cook is sel-
dom alone because people gather
around in anticipation. The act of
making latkes is also teaching the
younger generation how it's done.
Nobody has fond memories of moth-
er or father serving pre-made latkes
from an oven.
Still not convinced? Here's an idea.
Make latke preparation a family
event. Let one person grate potatoes.
Allow another to chop onions. Tell a
third to add eggs and seasoning and
stir it all together. Let whoever volun-
teers "drop" the batter in the hot oil.
Rest assured, letting others in on
the act will make them all appreciate
latkes more. Especially the kids.
In the end, Chanukah is not about
latkes. It's about telling the story of
an ancient event that's as relevant
today as it ever was. It's also about
keeping traditions alive. The follow-
ing recipe for latkes is traditional.
The other foods are great with latkes.
LATKES
2 pounds Idaho or russet potatoes,
peeled or not
1 cup chopped yellow onions
12/10
2004
64
2 eggs
3 T. flour (more if needed)
kosher salt and pepper to taste
vegetable oil for frying
Coarsely grate potatoes by hand
(with a box grater) or in the food
processor and let them sit until they
turn reddish-brown, about 1 /, hour.
Drain the potatoes in a colander and
rinse well with cold water until the
potatoes are white again. If the
strands of potato are too long (as
sometimes happens with a food
processor), chop them slightly.
In a large bowl, combine the pota-
toes, onions, eggs, flour, salt and pep-
per. Mix and let stand for 10 minutes
before frying.
In a large skillet, heat 1/8-inch of
oil until very hot, but not smoking.
Make a test pancake by dropping a
heaping tablespoon of the potato
mixture into the skillet. Using a
spoon or spatula, form the mixture
into a circle shape. Don't worry if
your pancake is not a perfect circle.
Cook 3 minutes or so on each side
until the pancakes are golden and
cooked through. Note: As latke batter
sits, it becomes more "watery." Stir
each time before you use the batter.
Drain the fried latke well on paper
towels or on flattened, paper grocery
bags placed over baking sheets. Taste
for seasoning, adjust salt and pepper
and make the latkes until the potato
mixture is gone.
If you must add more oil, do it
when the skillet is empty. Never pour
new oil onto cooking latkes, it makes
them greasy. Serve with lots of apple-
sauce or sour cream. Makes 8 serv-
ings.
SUNDRIED TOMATO, ROASTED
PEPPER AND PINENUT SALSA
Delicious as an appetizer with pita
wedges, tortilla chips or served with
latkes instead of applesauce and sour
cream.
1 cup chopped tomatoes, any variety
8 sundried tomatoes in oil, chopped
1 roasted red pepper (jarred is fine)
1/4 cup lightly toasted pinenuts
juice of 1/2 lemon, or to taste
1 T. olive oil
1/2 cup (not packed) minced
cilantro or basil (optional)
salt and pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients in a
medium bowl and mix well.
(Alternately, you may place
"chunks" of ingredients in the
bowl of a food processor and
pulse until chopped and
mixed). Makes 2-3 cups.
OLD FASHIONED
fresh ground black pepper to taste
MEATLOAF
fresh dill sprigs, garnish
Comfort food that's tasty served
Dipping Sauce:
warm (not steaming hot), or cold for
r1/2 cup mayonnaise
sandwiches. I like my meatloaf in a
round shape instead of the traditional 2 T. minced fresh dill
loaf shape. Then I cut it into wedges,
1T. fresh lemon juice
like a cake.
1 t. Worcestershire sauce
1 T. olive oil
1 t. Dijon mustard
1 1/2 cups minced onions
salt and pepper to taste
1 t. minced garlic
Cut asparagus 3 inches from the
1 cup breadcrumbs
top (save lower part of spears for
2 pounds very lean ground beef or
other uses). Place the spears in a
microwave-safe bowl with I/4-cup
turkey
water and cover with plastic wrap.
1 1/2 cups tomato sauce
Cook the asparagus on high for 3
1/4 cup sweet barbecue sauce (not
minutes. Remove from microwave
hot or smoky)
and cool slightly.
1 egg, lightly beaten
Lay one thin slice of smoked
2 T. dried parsley flakes
salmon on a clean surface. Cut the
salmon in half. Place one asparagus
1 t. salt
spear on one half of the salmon and
1/2 t. pepper
roll the salmon around the spear,
Position a rack in the center of an
leaving the top and bottom of the
oven and preheat to 350E Spray a
spear uncovered (they should stick
baking sheet with sides with non-
out of the salmon roll). Arrange the
stick cooking spray. Set aside.
finished spear on a serving plate.
Heat oil in a large skillet over
Repeat with remaining salmon and
medium-high heat. Add the onions
asparagus, using more salmon if there
and saute the onion and garlic until
is not enough to cover the spears
tender, about 5 minutes. Remove
(you will need more if the salmon is
from the heat and cool completely.
not
cut very thin). Sprinkle the fin-
Combine the remaining ingredients
ished
rolls with pepper and garnish
in a large bowl and using wet hands,
with dill sprigs.
mash the mixture together. Shape the
Cover the plate with plastic wrap
mixture into a loaf or circle shape.
and chill until ready to serve (up to 1
Bake, covered with foil, for 1 hour.
day ahead).
Remove the foil and cook for 20
Make the sauce: Combine all the
minutes more. Allow the meatloaf to
sauce
ingredients in a medium bowl
sit for at least 5 minutes before serv-
and
stir
or whisk until smooth. Serve
ing. Makes 6 servings.
the sauce alongside the rolls for dip-
ping. Makes 8 servings.
SMOKED SALMON AND
ASPARAGUS ROLLS WITH
EASY SHORTCUT SUFGANIYOT
DILL SAUCE
These are more like fried cream puffs
24 thin asparagus spears
than the yeasty, doughnut-like suf-
1/2 lb. or more smoked salmon,
ganiyot. The upside is that they're
thinly sliced (about 12 slices)
delicious and quite easy.