Arts Life Food Fresh Latkes There's nothing like a tradition of homemade, straight from the frying pan. ANNABEL COHEN Special to the Jewish News T here's nothing like fresh latkes. It's Chanukah! And every year, I get the same question: Can you make latkes in advance? My answer is always an emphatic, "No!" It's not true of course. Almost every food may be made ahead of serving time. There's a caveat, however. If you prepare latkes in advance, they simply will not taste as good as if you fried them up and serve them imme- diately. Like most fried foods — think French fries — precooking results in a less-than-perfect flavor and texture. Fine, you say. You don't like the greasy smell in your house, clothes and hair that comes from last-second frying. And you don't want to be the one working while everyone else is having fun. So giving up flavor is a price you're willing to pay for ease. Pity. Because making latkes and eating them hot from skillet is a unique experience. The cook is sel- dom alone because people gather around in anticipation. The act of making latkes is also teaching the younger generation how it's done. Nobody has fond memories of moth- er or father serving pre-made latkes from an oven. Still not convinced? Here's an idea. Make latke preparation a family event. Let one person grate potatoes. Allow another to chop onions. Tell a third to add eggs and seasoning and stir it all together. Let whoever volun- teers "drop" the batter in the hot oil. Rest assured, letting others in on the act will make them all appreciate latkes more. Especially the kids. In the end, Chanukah is not about latkes. It's about telling the story of an ancient event that's as relevant today as it ever was. It's also about keeping traditions alive. The follow- ing recipe for latkes is traditional. The other foods are great with latkes. LATKES 2 pounds Idaho or russet potatoes, peeled or not 1 cup chopped yellow onions 12/10 2004 64 2 eggs 3 T. flour (more if needed) kosher salt and pepper to taste vegetable oil for frying Coarsely grate potatoes by hand (with a box grater) or in the food processor and let them sit until they turn reddish-brown, about 1 /, hour. Drain the potatoes in a colander and rinse well with cold water until the potatoes are white again. If the strands of potato are too long (as sometimes happens with a food processor), chop them slightly. In a large bowl, combine the pota- toes, onions, eggs, flour, salt and pep- per. Mix and let stand for 10 minutes before frying. In a large skillet, heat 1/8-inch of oil until very hot, but not smoking. Make a test pancake by dropping a heaping tablespoon of the potato mixture into the skillet. Using a spoon or spatula, form the mixture into a circle shape. Don't worry if your pancake is not a perfect circle. Cook 3 minutes or so on each side until the pancakes are golden and cooked through. Note: As latke batter sits, it becomes more "watery." Stir each time before you use the batter. Drain the fried latke well on paper towels or on flattened, paper grocery bags placed over baking sheets. Taste for seasoning, adjust salt and pepper and make the latkes until the potato mixture is gone. If you must add more oil, do it when the skillet is empty. Never pour new oil onto cooking latkes, it makes them greasy. Serve with lots of apple- sauce or sour cream. Makes 8 serv- ings. SUNDRIED TOMATO, ROASTED PEPPER AND PINENUT SALSA Delicious as an appetizer with pita wedges, tortilla chips or served with latkes instead of applesauce and sour cream. 1 cup chopped tomatoes, any variety 8 sundried tomatoes in oil, chopped 1 roasted red pepper (jarred is fine) 1/4 cup lightly toasted pinenuts juice of 1/2 lemon, or to taste 1 T. olive oil 1/2 cup (not packed) minced cilantro or basil (optional) salt and pepper to taste Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well. (Alternately, you may place "chunks" of ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until chopped and mixed). Makes 2-3 cups. OLD FASHIONED fresh ground black pepper to taste MEATLOAF fresh dill sprigs, garnish Comfort food that's tasty served Dipping Sauce: warm (not steaming hot), or cold for r1/2 cup mayonnaise sandwiches. I like my meatloaf in a round shape instead of the traditional 2 T. minced fresh dill loaf shape. Then I cut it into wedges, 1T. fresh lemon juice like a cake. 1 t. Worcestershire sauce 1 T. olive oil 1 t. Dijon mustard 1 1/2 cups minced onions salt and pepper to taste 1 t. minced garlic Cut asparagus 3 inches from the 1 cup breadcrumbs top (save lower part of spears for 2 pounds very lean ground beef or other uses). Place the spears in a microwave-safe bowl with I/4-cup turkey water and cover with plastic wrap. 1 1/2 cups tomato sauce Cook the asparagus on high for 3 1/4 cup sweet barbecue sauce (not minutes. Remove from microwave hot or smoky) and cool slightly. 1 egg, lightly beaten Lay one thin slice of smoked 2 T. dried parsley flakes salmon on a clean surface. Cut the salmon in half. Place one asparagus 1 t. salt spear on one half of the salmon and 1/2 t. pepper roll the salmon around the spear, Position a rack in the center of an leaving the top and bottom of the oven and preheat to 350E Spray a spear uncovered (they should stick baking sheet with sides with non- out of the salmon roll). Arrange the stick cooking spray. Set aside. finished spear on a serving plate. Heat oil in a large skillet over Repeat with remaining salmon and medium-high heat. Add the onions asparagus, using more salmon if there and saute the onion and garlic until is not enough to cover the spears tender, about 5 minutes. Remove (you will need more if the salmon is from the heat and cool completely. not cut very thin). Sprinkle the fin- Combine the remaining ingredients ished rolls with pepper and garnish in a large bowl and using wet hands, with dill sprigs. mash the mixture together. Shape the Cover the plate with plastic wrap mixture into a loaf or circle shape. and chill until ready to serve (up to 1 Bake, covered with foil, for 1 hour. day ahead). Remove the foil and cook for 20 Make the sauce: Combine all the minutes more. Allow the meatloaf to sauce ingredients in a medium bowl sit for at least 5 minutes before serv- and stir or whisk until smooth. Serve ing. Makes 6 servings. the sauce alongside the rolls for dip- ping. Makes 8 servings. SMOKED SALMON AND ASPARAGUS ROLLS WITH EASY SHORTCUT SUFGANIYOT DILL SAUCE These are more like fried cream puffs 24 thin asparagus spears than the yeasty, doughnut-like suf- 1/2 lb. or more smoked salmon, ganiyot. The upside is that they're thinly sliced (about 12 slices) delicious and quite easy.