cal. She also takes readers on a tour
of the food history and lore of Jews
from all over the world, sharing
Jewish holiday food customs and
recipes of Ashkenazic and Sephardic
Jews from a multitude of nations.
Each of the 230 recipes is desig-
nated meat, dairy or parve, and each
has a nutritional analysis. Many have
serving suggestions and variations.
Ashkanazi-Hankin, who also is an
artist-illustrator, created the front
cover of Festivals of Lite, as well as
the pen-and-ink drawings that
appear throughout the book. The St.
Louis native lives in Denver.
`The New Jewish
Holiday Cookbook'
In The New Jewish Holiday
Cookbook: An International
Collection of Recipes and Customs
(Times Books; $27.50), author
Gloria Kaufer Greene, former food
editor at the Baltimore Jewish Times,
revises and updates The Jewish
Holiday Cookbook, which she created
15 years ago.
In her introduction to the new edi-
tion, Kaufer Greene notes several
improvements. The 260-plus recipes
include more than 100 completely
new ones — most of them quick and
easy to prepare. Also, she has revised
directions in almost every recipe to
make them clearer and to take advan-
tage of modern cooking equipment.
Where possible, the author explains,
she has adjusted recipes to make them
more healthful while retaining flavor.
"Jewish food is ... inseparable
from the traditions, customs, history
and lore of the people who cook it,"
says Kaufer Greene. In this second
edition, readers will learn not only
how to prepare a meal, but also why
each dish is associated with a partic-
ular holiday and where the recipes
originated.
The Maryland-based author
includes recipes prized by Sephardic
and Ashkenazic Jews, as well as Jews
from the Middle East and other areas
of the world. The cookbook is
arranged holiday by holiday, and all
recipes are marked "M" for meat,
"D" for dairy and "P" for parve.
`The Second Avenue
Deli Cookbook'
The Second Avenue Deli Cookbook:
Recipes and Memories from Abe
Lebewohl's Legendary Kitchen
(Villard; $24.95), written by Sharon
Lebewohl and Rena Bulkin, is a trib-
ute to the famed Manhattan deli's
founder, Abe Lebewohl.
The restaurateur had talked about
revealing the secrets of his traditional
Jewish delicacies — "Chicken Soup
with Matza Balls," "Chopped Liver,"
"Potato Latkes," "Blintzes" and
"Noodle Pudding," to name a few of
the many dishes featured in this
cookbook.
But, in 1996, before he got the
project under way, Lebewohl was
murdered as he prepared to deposit
the previous day's earnings in the
bank. In tribute to Lebenwohl —
dubbed "the Jewish Mother Teresa"
because he regularly fed every hungry
person who came into his restaurant
— his daughter Sharon and close
friend Bulkin took over the project.
The cookbook — dripping with
schmaltz (the Second Avenue Deli is
a kosher restaurant serving no dairy
items) and nostalgia — includes
anecdotes about Abe and Jewish New
York history, as well as personal
recipes from celebrities like Paul
Reiser (the perfect egg cream),
Morley Safer (brisket) and Dustin
Hoffman (his grandmother's recipe
for "Macaroni and Cheeses").
`The Classic Dolci
0 f The Italian Jews
eady for dessert? In The Classic
Dolci of the Italian Jews: A World of
Jewish Desserts (Giro Press; $35),
Edda Servi Machlin, author of The
Classic Cuisine of the Italian Jews,
Vols. I and II, presents mainly the
desserts of Italian Jews, but also
Jewish desserts from elsewhere,
which she has tested and modified to
her liking.
There are several reasons why Jews
have always prepared and many
times invented their own desserts,
says the author. The first and fore-
most — observance of the Jewish
dietary laws — led to creations that
were not originally "Jewish" (such as
"Panettone" and "Ricciarelli" in the
Italian cuisine) but had to be pre-
pared at home to make sure there
was no unkosher ingredient in them.
A second reason, according to
Servi-Machlin, has been to counteract
with sweetness the persecution Jews
often have experienced at the hands of
others. The author, for example,
includes a recipe for "Sfratti" ("Honey
and Nut Sticks"), a typical example of
the symbolic origin of some desserts.
The dessert resembles the sticks Italian
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