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CASH
Hoofing It
In The Holy Land
SCOTT BENARDE SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH NEWS
I
am flat on my back wedged into
the rocky banks of Ein Avdat,
an ancient spring 200 feet at
the bottom of a limestone and
dolomite canyon. My blistered feet
are killing me. The rest of my body
is swearing at me for undertaking
this Negev Desert hike in Sep-
tember's oppressive heat—easily
in the '90s. My T-shirt is sweat-
soaked; my shorts covered with a
chalky dust.
In a few minutes we will begin
the 200-foot climb up the canyon
walls to meet our air conditioned
bus. Some kind souls carved nar-
row steps into the rock and also
installed metal grips and ladders
to help tourists climb out of the
canyon. But it is still a lung- and
muscle-sapping chore.
' So why am I so happy to be
here?
Because this is God's country:
not as unforgiving as it looks, with
a rough-hewn, awesome beauty—
and a vastness that belies its size
on the world map.
Because this rocky emptiness—
ruled by sure-footed ibex (wild
goats) and scrubby acacia trees—
is a hotbed of ancient history. As
early as 1,500 years ago travelers
and tribes quenched fierce thirsts
at this sparkling desert spring,
now part of Israel's National
Parks Authority.
And because I make it to the
canyon rim, blisters and all—and
to the cool comfort of the bus.
Welcome to Day 5 of "The Per-
fect Tour," a semi-rugged, 12-day
trek traversing Israel from head
(Metulla on the Lebanese border
in the north) to toe (the Red Sea
resort Eilat in the south).
Though overnight accommo-
dations occasionally border on the
first class, this excursion is not for
the faint-hearted or sore-footed.
The trip includes hiking wadis
(dry riverbeds), canyons, hills and
valleys, and a few hours of camel
riding, kayaking and snorkelling.
(The cave and tunnel crawling is
optional).
"The Perfect Tour"—actually
four short tours strung together—
is run by the Society for the Pro-
tection of Nature in Israel (SPNI),
a non-profit, grassroots preserva-
tion society almost as old as the
country itself.
The SPNNI strong suit is its af-
fable, knowledgeable guides who
can explain everything from trap-
ping water in desert cisterns to the
importance and significance of the
olive in ancient times. This tour
will increase your knowledge of
geology and botany. There are
plenty of geography, archaeolo-
gy and history "lessons" as well.
(Political discussions were usu-
allysaved for after-dinner con-
versation). The guest lodge near
Shaharut is in an isolated Negev
village of 25-30 families.
The rustic lodge is made of
stones, tarpaulins, date palm
fronds and colorful Bedouin rugs
and wall hangings. (We slept on
the floor on soft foam mats in sleep-
ing bags.) It sits alone on a top-of-
the-world precipice offering a
panoramic view of Jordan's Edom
mountains to the west. At night we
could easily see the southern lights
of Eilat, Aqaba, Jordan and the
Sinai border town ofTaba, 25 miles
away. Shaharut's panoramic view
offers an odd, exhilarating combi-
nation of barrenness and beauty.
Sephi, a reclusive Israeli with
a head for business, runs this
lodge and the camel-riding oper-
ation at the bottom of the hill.
At moments when all was qui-
et, I could hear the desert breeze
whirl by my ears. Add the creak
of straining saddle leather and
camel hooves grinding against the
rocky desert floor and I felt like an
extra in Lawrence of Arabia.
FOR LIKE-NEW
WOMEN'S & CHILDREN'S
DESIGNER
851.6340
6784 Orchard Lake Rd.
( 1St Stoplight South Of Maple )
Open Mon. - Sat. 9AM To 6PM
A FIAT UNO STING
LS
26 AUG 95
19 DEC 95
147
PEUGEOT 205 AC
196
FORD Fl ESTA 1 .3
238
C'
PEUGEOT 306
266
PEUGEOT 405 1.6
294
M
MINIBUS FORD
560
N
BABY BUS 7 SEATS
420
B
AUTOMATIC CARS AC
D
SUZU KY SWIFT
E
MAZDA 323 1.6
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315
*NISSAN SUNNY
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*SUBARU LEGACY 1.8
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Hikers rest at the rim of Ein Avdat.