FOOD
Sephardic Cooking
In A New Book
CONCORD GRAPE
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A SPICIALAY SKFTINE0 KOSKI NINE
CONIAMINC N01 LISS KAN 51% CONCORD
_THE TRADITIONAL
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KOSHER WINE.
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More Than a Tradition...A Trust!
.All Manischewitz Wines are Available Kosher for Passover
EAT WELL EAT SMART EAT KOSHER AND FOR THE FINEST OF KOSHER PRODUCTS
Look for this emblem and be a name
Association who sells only the finest of
not a number by shopping at a
select kosher products which are
member market of the Detroit area
certified kosher by a recognized
Retail Kosher Meat Dealers
Orthodox rabbinical council.
PASSOVER
SPECIALS
SUNDAY, APRIL 5th THROUGH
FRIDAY, APRIL 10th
EMPIRE FRESH FROZEN
TURKEY WINGS111111111111
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EMPIRE FRESH FROZEN
TURKEY LOWER QUARTERS..
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EMPIRE FRESH FROZEN
CHICKEN LIVERS & GIZZARDS.
This Week Exclusively at:
1
1
.99C,
.890
,..
somosemosommos 111129/1b.
PASSOVER FALLS FRIDAY, APRIL 17th
SHOP EARLY FOR THE BEST SELECTION
COHEN'S KOSHER MEAT & POULTRY MARKET
6734 Orchard Lake Road, near Maple
in the West Bloomfield Plaza, West Bloomfield
Phone 932-3930
OUR FAMILY HAS BEEN SERVING THE JEWISH COMMUNITY FOR
OVER 70 YEARS. MICHAEL COHEN, OWNER-OPERATOR
To better serve our customers
we are now open as follows:
Sunday 8:30-5:00
Monday - Wednesday 8:30-6:30
Thursday 8:30-7:00
Friday 9:30-3:00
OUR MEMBER MARKETS FEATURE THE FINEST SELECTED EMPIRE KOSHER POULTRY.
BROUGHT IN FRESH DAILY FOR YOU THE CONSUMING PUBLIC TO ENJOY YOUR WAY.
Call PHILIP TEWEL
661-4050 or 968.1200
Supervised By The Council of Orthodox Rabbis
86
FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 1992
.b.
Copeland Marks' Sephardic
Cooking will probably be one
of the best books to come out
of Sepharad '92.
Sephardic Cooking is not
just a cookbook. It's a history;
it's a journey; it's a heimish
portrait of a people.
Strictly speaking, not all
the countries included qualify
as Sephardic, but based on
their connection with tal
mudic Baghdad and by exten-
sion to Spain, can be con-
sidered so.
The book is cross-sectioned
by area, then by country, and
Mr. Marks provides a cross-
index by category as well as
a glossary of terms as yet un-
familiar to Ashkenazic-
habituated palates. Each sec-
tion opens with an engaging
exposition of that Jewish corn-
munity's evolution and its
ways, then on to the growth
and development of its idio-
syncratic cuisine. Introduc-
tions to recipes place them in
the context of the culture —
here's history with a face on
it. Sabbath and holiday
dishes are pointed out as is,
the author says, the only non-
kosher recipe in the book. But
tread carefully — I did spot
one Passover recipe calling for
flour. An editor's goof?
Two influences, a Spanish
heritage — interestingly,
many of the recipes retained
their Ladino names — and
the host cultures, combined
gradually to define the Jews'
Diaspora cooking: Available
ingredients were incorporated
into the repertoire the Jews
brought with them. Except
for an occasional sprinkling of
hot chili flakes, strong
seasonings were hardly used.
Instead, the kitchens relied
heavily on appealing com-
binations of meats, vegetables
or fish. The tendency even un-
to today, Mr. Marks says, is to
casserole baking or stove-top
simmering; the large roasts of
European cooking are vir-
tually unknown. Bread is the
staff of life with rice not far
behind.
Lots of little pickled things;
vegetable-stuffed vegetables
and vegetable pies and
pastries aplenty. Lots of little
side dishes, soups and salads;
cookies, cakes, sweets and
breads. The walnut-based
sauces of Georgian Russia,
the hameems and curries of
an almost-vegetarian India,
spicy Cochin creations; yogurt
concoctions galore. The
pungent foods of Ethiopian
Jews; the garlic, lentils and
beans of Egypt; aromatic
Maghreb cooking with its
nuts, dried fruits and
scheenas; the eclectic cuisine
of Tunisia; Libyan hot fish —
this could go on forever. Do
yourself a favor — get the
book. You may never see
another like it.
HALEK
(Charoset from Persia)
3 /4 cup pistachio nuts
3 /4 cup walnuts
3 /4 cup almonds
1 /2 cup seedless white
raisins
1 cup dark raisins
3 /4 cup coarsely chopped
pitted dates
2 apples, peeled and
cored
1/2
t. ground cinnamon
cup pomegranate juice
or red semisweet
wine
Grind . nuts coarsely
together, then add the fruit
and grind together, but not
too fine, leaving some texture.
Add the cinnamon and
pomegranate juice or wine;
mix well. The mixture should
have a crunchy consistency
with a tart-sweet flavor.
HALEK
(Grape Charoset
from Kurdistan)
4 pounds juicy white
grapes, or 1 quart
pure white grape
juice
1 /3 cup toasted sesame
seeds
1 /3 cup toasted walnuts
1. If using grapes, squeeze
out the juice by hand or with
an automatic juicer that
removes the juice and
discards a dry pulp.
2. Over low heat, cook the
juice down to a maple syrup
consistency, ending with
about 1/3 the total amount of
juice. If using bottled juice,
simmer it over low heat until
reduced by half or even more,
about 15 to 20 minutes.The
syrup should be thick but still
liquid. Cool.
3. Grind the sesame seeds
and walnuts separately in a
processor, but not too
smoothly. Add this to the
grape syrup and mix well.