FOOD Sephardic Cooking In A New Book CONCORD GRAPE Mgt. A SPICIALAY SKFTINE0 KOSKI NINE CONIAMINC N01 LISS KAN 51% CONCORD _THE TRADITIONAL snn KOSHER WINE. ••••••,,nzar• • • •••t• More Than a Tradition...A Trust! .All Manischewitz Wines are Available Kosher for Passover EAT WELL EAT SMART EAT KOSHER AND FOR THE FINEST OF KOSHER PRODUCTS Look for this emblem and be a name Association who sells only the finest of not a number by shopping at a select kosher products which are member market of the Detroit area certified kosher by a recognized Retail Kosher Meat Dealers Orthodox rabbinical council. PASSOVER SPECIALS SUNDAY, APRIL 5th THROUGH FRIDAY, APRIL 10th EMPIRE FRESH FROZEN TURKEY WINGS111111111111 1 1 1 1 I 1 11111111111111 EMPIRE FRESH FROZEN TURKEY LOWER QUARTERS.. W111111111111111 EMPIRE FRESH FROZEN CHICKEN LIVERS & GIZZARDS. This Week Exclusively at: 1 1 .99C, .890 ,.. somosemosommos 111129/1b. PASSOVER FALLS FRIDAY, APRIL 17th SHOP EARLY FOR THE BEST SELECTION COHEN'S KOSHER MEAT & POULTRY MARKET 6734 Orchard Lake Road, near Maple in the West Bloomfield Plaza, West Bloomfield Phone 932-3930 OUR FAMILY HAS BEEN SERVING THE JEWISH COMMUNITY FOR OVER 70 YEARS. MICHAEL COHEN, OWNER-OPERATOR To better serve our customers we are now open as follows: Sunday 8:30-5:00 Monday - Wednesday 8:30-6:30 Thursday 8:30-7:00 Friday 9:30-3:00 OUR MEMBER MARKETS FEATURE THE FINEST SELECTED EMPIRE KOSHER POULTRY. BROUGHT IN FRESH DAILY FOR YOU THE CONSUMING PUBLIC TO ENJOY YOUR WAY. Call PHILIP TEWEL 661-4050 or 968.1200 Supervised By The Council of Orthodox Rabbis 86 FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 1992 .b. Copeland Marks' Sephardic Cooking will probably be one of the best books to come out of Sepharad '92. Sephardic Cooking is not just a cookbook. It's a history; it's a journey; it's a heimish portrait of a people. Strictly speaking, not all the countries included qualify as Sephardic, but based on their connection with tal mudic Baghdad and by exten- sion to Spain, can be con- sidered so. The book is cross-sectioned by area, then by country, and Mr. Marks provides a cross- index by category as well as a glossary of terms as yet un- familiar to Ashkenazic- habituated palates. Each sec- tion opens with an engaging exposition of that Jewish corn- munity's evolution and its ways, then on to the growth and development of its idio- syncratic cuisine. Introduc- tions to recipes place them in the context of the culture — here's history with a face on it. Sabbath and holiday dishes are pointed out as is, the author says, the only non- kosher recipe in the book. But tread carefully — I did spot one Passover recipe calling for flour. An editor's goof? Two influences, a Spanish heritage — interestingly, many of the recipes retained their Ladino names — and the host cultures, combined gradually to define the Jews' Diaspora cooking: Available ingredients were incorporated into the repertoire the Jews brought with them. Except for an occasional sprinkling of hot chili flakes, strong seasonings were hardly used. Instead, the kitchens relied heavily on appealing com- binations of meats, vegetables or fish. The tendency even un- to today, Mr. Marks says, is to casserole baking or stove-top simmering; the large roasts of European cooking are vir- tually unknown. Bread is the staff of life with rice not far behind. Lots of little pickled things; vegetable-stuffed vegetables and vegetable pies and pastries aplenty. Lots of little side dishes, soups and salads; cookies, cakes, sweets and breads. The walnut-based sauces of Georgian Russia, the hameems and curries of an almost-vegetarian India, spicy Cochin creations; yogurt concoctions galore. The pungent foods of Ethiopian Jews; the garlic, lentils and beans of Egypt; aromatic Maghreb cooking with its nuts, dried fruits and scheenas; the eclectic cuisine of Tunisia; Libyan hot fish — this could go on forever. Do yourself a favor — get the book. You may never see another like it. HALEK (Charoset from Persia) 3 /4 cup pistachio nuts 3 /4 cup walnuts 3 /4 cup almonds 1 /2 cup seedless white raisins 1 cup dark raisins 3 /4 cup coarsely chopped pitted dates 2 apples, peeled and cored 1/2 t. ground cinnamon cup pomegranate juice or red semisweet wine Grind . nuts coarsely together, then add the fruit and grind together, but not too fine, leaving some texture. Add the cinnamon and pomegranate juice or wine; mix well. The mixture should have a crunchy consistency with a tart-sweet flavor. HALEK (Grape Charoset from Kurdistan) 4 pounds juicy white grapes, or 1 quart pure white grape juice 1 /3 cup toasted sesame seeds 1 /3 cup toasted walnuts 1. If using grapes, squeeze out the juice by hand or with an automatic juicer that removes the juice and discards a dry pulp. 2. Over low heat, cook the juice down to a maple syrup consistency, ending with about 1/3 the total amount of juice. If using bottled juice, simmer it over low heat until reduced by half or even more, about 15 to 20 minutes.The syrup should be thick but still liquid. Cool. 3. Grind the sesame seeds and walnuts separately in a processor, but not too smoothly. Add this to the grape syrup and mix well.