BUTTON-DOWN BLUES
working up a sweat, our man takes
a shower and prepares to slip into his
most important outfit of the day, the
business suit.
Men have done an 180 degree
turn when it comes to business
dressing. There is a heavy European
influence, especially Italian.
Doubled-breasted suits are being
accepted in the board room as easily
as single-breasted.
Bob Benkert, owner of the
Claymore Shop and The Polo Shop
notes: "Dark blue and gray suits are
popular, particularly when blended
with conservative stripes or plaids".
Peak and notch lapels are
popular, with double-breasted
closures ranging from the classic six-
button to the traditional four-button
and the contemporary two-button
style. Softly constructed jackets have
lighter chest panels than in past
seasons.
The silhouette of the 1930s is
expressed today in three-button suits
with lapels rolling to the second
button; contemporary versions make
the closure higher on the first
button. Fuller chests are important
as is a sloping, extended shoulder.
"There is more of an easy
elegance to the overall silhouette,"
says Chip Tolbert, fashion director of
The Men's Fashion Association, a
New York-based trade group. "Rather
than the inverted V-shape, there is
more of a wedge shape with no
vents on the jacket." Tolbert adds
that waists are slightly suppressed
and pants are cut fuller with pleats.
"Although the color story is pre-
dominantly navy and gray, the fash-
ion news is pink and purple," adds
Nancy Christiansen, executive vice
president of Kosins clothes. An
influence from the women's wear
market are lilac, periwinkle and
magenta, which enliven glen plaids,
pinstripes, chalk stripes and beaded
Dove gray wool/linen suit has
shoulders, peake lapels and two-button
closure, by Cecilia Metheny.
Accompanying it are the cream/purple
striped shirt and gray/olive silk floral
print tie.
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IN STYLE