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December 03, 1936 - Image 10

Resource type:
The Michigan Daily, 1936-12-03

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THURSDAY, DEC. 3, 1936

Darker Shades, Heavier Cloth Found In Men's Winter Styles

'Dandy Period'
Boasts Others
Than The Beau
A Mania For One Color
In All Clothing Among
'Dandy' Eccentricities
While the name of Beau Brummel
is familiar to most of us these days,
the names of many of his contem-
poraries are no longer well known.
Many of them were extremely pic-
uresque figures and all of them ob-
served a sartorial standard higher
than any supported nowadays.
One of these was Lieutenant Col-
onel Kelly of the Foot Guards. Cap-
tain Gronow, a noted dandy himself,
recorded in his Reminiscences that
Kelly was the vainest and most ec-
ceatric man he had ever met. Most
of the notable dandies of the day
were famous for some article of dress
upon which they bestowed special
care. Colonel Kelly concentrated
upon his boots, which were astonish-
ingly brilliant. The famous boots,
however, ultimately caused his death,
for he lost his life in a fire while
endeavoring to rescue his favorite
pair. After his death, keen competi-
tion existed amongst the other dan-
dies to secure the services of his valet
who alone possessed the secret of the
celebrated blacking. Unfortunately
history does not record who was suc-
cessful in securing this invaluable
man's services.
Lord Petersham
Another great dandy of the Re-
gency wasLord Petersham, who was
also celebrated as a connoisseur of
snuff. A contemporary report says,
"His room was like a shop . . . all
around the walls were beautiful jars
of innumerable kinds of snuff..
shelves and tables were covered with
magnificent snuff boxes, a fresh box
for every day in the year." Lord Pe-
tershanm never went out until six in
the evening, and then he always
rode in a brown carriage drawn by
brown horses and attended by foot-
men and coachmen in brown livery.
He is said to have been in love with
a widow named Brown, and ever
afterwards to have remained faithful
to the color.
The dandy period is effectively re-
flected in the novels of that time.
One of these, "Pelham," by Bulwur-
Lytton, contains a typical philosophy
of clothes, suggesting among other
things a change of the cravat sev-
eral times during the day. Color,
however received about the most at-
tention, and several dandies like the
above-mentioned Lord Petersham
went completely crazy over one color.
One dandy earned the soubriquet
of "Pea Green-" because of his af-
finity for clothes, accessorie sand
even carriages of a pea green color.
Like Petersham he never appeared
out of his home until after six p.m.
Military Dandy
The German Prince Hermann
Puckler Mascau arrived in London in
t 1825 and succeeded in dazzling that
~by no means unsophisticated city. His
s black and yellow coupe carried a
r greentparrot ina cage, a pet dog and
a footman behind. The Prince him-
self used to sit on the coachman's
box, wearing a cashmere shawl
thrown over his shoulders.
s Military men as well as civilians
ywere great dandies in those days, and
the story is told of an officer of the
Fourth Dragoon Guards who was sent
on in advance to a town evacuated
ry the French Army during the Pen-
insular Wars. Supplies were difficult
to get from home, and it was all that
the Minister of War could do to pro-
vide adequate food. The elegant and
highly perishable uniforms of the of-
ficers suffered much in the campaign
which annoyed them not a little.
The Beau was the peer of them all

however, and we are indebted to him
for shoe polish, which he invented.

v i

r > i~ { *r : this Christmas is one from our complete selection of
Robes. In the wool or flannel bathrobe there is every-
:;; z ':";, :* thing thta tcane be imagin ed from the soft wooly robe
} 1 ;; ?"s Y t "...to the rather more tailored tweedish one ,... featured in
all loud o! conservative styles . . , from $6.50 to $15.0.
" ' '"' Or perha~ps you would like to give or buy for yourself a
*. little dressier robe in silk. . these are found in more
conservative combinations of blues, reds, greens or even
blacks . . . and are to be found from $10.00 to $19.50.
'rhcn may wesuet the popular cocktail jacket fea-
turedt in either silk or wool, and there are also a couple of
velvet ones left if you hurry . .. priced from $6.50 to $13.95

AQ - r-aw-I
iq -wv -K , AL W E

-Copyright 1936, Esquire, Inc.

* * *

Trend To More Formality Is Shown
In College Men's New Winter Styles




Though informality may be the
keynote of men's clothes at Michigan,
the occasions are numerous that re-
quire something more formal than a
spare coat, a pair of slacks and some
white shoes. Granted that this may
be an unfortunate state of affairs,
none the less it is a reality that must
be coped with in a collegian's ward-
robe. The dictates of the winter sea-
son also invariably suggest niore for-
mal attire than that customarily
worn in late summer and autumn.
Eclipsed by this trend of more for-
mal clothes is the pleated back, which
will continue to be used on sport
The above illustration shows a
group of gentlemen in what might
be the Union except for the chap
with the tray. The man in the fore-
ground wears an exception to the rul-
ing that town clothes should have a
degree of formality. He is in a herr-
ingbone, cheviot suit. Cheviot, a type
of cloth which; because of its many
advantages, enjoys great popularity
with many men. In modified pat-
terns it is suitable for town wear and
is particularly valued by those men
who, ev'en in town, like the feel of
a country fabric. With this suit is
worn a pair of horizontally striped,
6x3 ribbed lisle hose and brown calf
shoes on a town last. The tie is of
cashmere and has light-colored 'fig-
ures on a dark background. Imme-
Popularity Enjoyed
By 'String' Gloves
String gloves have enjoyed a cres-
cendo in popularity within the past
three years, and justifiably so, be-
cause their value has been redognized

diately above the seacea figure is a stripes. He wears a dark grey shir
gentleman wearing a double-breasted and a black background Spitalfields
blue flannel suit bearing white chalk tie with a white starched collar, the
1whole making an ideal ensemble for
New Color, Pattern The young man in the center of the
picture is in a blue worsted two-but-
Available In Socks ton notch lapel model suit with a
natural roil to the lapel. He wears
the blue Oxford button-down collar
New colors and patterns in socks attached shirt so popular with young
are available from the smart shops men, and with it a club striped tie.
this year, and these good-looking Hi. father alongside of him is in
accessories adid much to a smart Hsfte lnsd fhmi n
accesores dd ouc toa sarta medium grey worsted suit with a
turnout. In the group illustrated colored overstripe. With this h
here the uppermost sock carries both wears a white starched widespread
horizontal and vertical stripes and collarsand a bottle green crocheted
is suitable for town wear. It is in tie.
a mixture of silk and wool. The older gentleman to whom the
Alongside of it is shown a country Tholegntmatow mte
sock of wool in a bold blocked pat- youngster is being presented wears an
tern. These are available in both Oxford grey double-breasted jacke
brightly and conservatively colored with grey and black stried cashmer
hosiery. The suitability of these trousers, black calf shoes, black and
socks for Ann Arbor conditions is white Shepherd's check tie



from Van Boven 's

manifested in their great popularity
here. With walking the principal
means of getting places and high
water pants still being worn, these
socks have two good selling points" M a W eSut SoOf Th
for they are both comfortable and
good-looking. The bottom-most sock j! i
of the group is perennially popular. M any Usefu ifts ForH iy
It is the 6x3 ribbed lisie variety. The
one shown here has double horizontal
stripes set closely together. Socks
may either harmonize or contrast
with the rest of the ensemble and it M UFFLERS
is a good idea to wear socks which
have in them both the colors of the A CE SUEDE JACKETS
suit and the tie worn, with the tie
color predominating.








SHIRTS ......... 2.50 to $5.00


$6.50 to $15.00


- - - 11 W ww V V' S~l VVva- -- rw.-v sv I'ar v

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