THE MICHIGAN DAILY THURSDAY, DEC. 3, 1936 Darker Shades, Heavier Cloth Found In Men's Winter Styles 'Dandy Period' Boasts Others Than The Beau A Mania For One Color In All Clothing Among 'Dandy' Eccentricities While the name of Beau Brummel is familiar to most of us these days, the names of many of his contem- poraries are no longer well known. Many of them were extremely pic- uresque figures and all of them ob- served a sartorial standard higher than any supported nowadays. One of these was Lieutenant Col- onel Kelly of the Foot Guards. Cap- tain Gronow, a noted dandy himself, recorded in his Reminiscences that Kelly was the vainest and most ec- ceatric man he had ever met. Most of the notable dandies of the day were famous for some article of dress upon which they bestowed special care. Colonel Kelly concentrated upon his boots, which were astonish- ingly brilliant. The famous boots, however, ultimately caused his death, for he lost his life in a fire while endeavoring to rescue his favorite pair. After his death, keen competi- tion existed amongst the other dan- dies to secure the services of his valet who alone possessed the secret of the celebrated blacking. Unfortunately history does not record who was suc- cessful in securing this invaluable man's services. Lord Petersham Another great dandy of the Re- gency wasLord Petersham, who was also celebrated as a connoisseur of snuff. A contemporary report says, "His room was like a shop . . . all around the walls were beautiful jars of innumerable kinds of snuff.. shelves and tables were covered with magnificent snuff boxes, a fresh box for every day in the year." Lord Pe- tershanm never went out until six in the evening, and then he always rode in a brown carriage drawn by brown horses and attended by foot- men and coachmen in brown livery. He is said to have been in love with a widow named Brown, and ever afterwards to have remained faithful to the color. The dandy period is effectively re- flected in the novels of that time. One of these, "Pelham," by Bulwur- Lytton, contains a typical philosophy of clothes, suggesting among other things a change of the cravat sev- eral times during the day. Color, however received about the most at- tention, and several dandies like the above-mentioned Lord Petersham went completely crazy over one color. One dandy earned the soubriquet of "Pea Green-" because of his af- finity for clothes, accessorie sand even carriages of a pea green color. Like Petersham he never appeared out of his home until after six p.m. Military Dandy The German Prince Hermann Puckler Mascau arrived in London in t 1825 and succeeded in dazzling that ~by no means unsophisticated city. His s black and yellow coupe carried a r greentparrot ina cage, a pet dog and a footman behind. The Prince him- self used to sit on the coachman's box, wearing a cashmere shawl thrown over his shoulders. s Military men as well as civilians ywere great dandies in those days, and the story is told of an officer of the Fourth Dragoon Guards who was sent on in advance to a town evacuated ry the French Army during the Pen- insular Wars. Supplies were difficult to get from home, and it was all that the Minister of War could do to pro- vide adequate food. The elegant and highly perishable uniforms of the of- ficers suffered much in the campaign which annoyed them not a little. The Beau was the peer of them all however, and we are indebted to him for shoe polish, which he invented. v i a 7 r > i~ { *r : this Christmas is one from our complete selection of Robes. In the wool or flannel bathrobe there is every- :;; z ':";, :* thing thta tcane be imagin ed from the soft wooly robe } 1 ;; ?"s Y t "...to the rather more tailored tweedish one ,... featured in all loud o! conservative styles . . , from $6.50 to $15.0. " ' '"' Or perha~ps you would like to give or buy for yourself a *. little dressier robe in silk. . these are found in more conservative combinations of blues, reds, greens or even blacks . . . and are to be found from $10.00 to $19.50. 'rhcn may wesuet the popular cocktail jacket fea- turedt in either silk or wool, and there are also a couple of velvet ones left if you hurry . .. priced from $6.50 to $13.95 - AQ - r-aw-I iq -wv -K , AL W E -Copyright 1936, Esquire, Inc. * * * Trend To More Formality Is Shown In College Men's New Winter Styles 1 SOME MORE "I Though informality may be the keynote of men's clothes at Michigan, the occasions are numerous that re- quire something more formal than a spare coat, a pair of slacks and some white shoes. Granted that this may be an unfortunate state of affairs, none the less it is a reality that must be coped with in a collegian's ward- robe. The dictates of the winter sea- son also invariably suggest niore for- mal attire than that customarily worn in late summer and autumn. Eclipsed by this trend of more for- mal clothes is the pleated back, which will continue to be used on sport clothes. The above illustration shows a group of gentlemen in what might be the Union except for the chap with the tray. The man in the fore- ground wears an exception to the rul- ing that town clothes should have a degree of formality. He is in a herr- ingbone, cheviot suit. Cheviot, a type of cloth which; because of its many advantages, enjoys great popularity with many men. In modified pat- terns it is suitable for town wear and is particularly valued by those men who, ev'en in town, like the feel of a country fabric. With this suit is worn a pair of horizontally striped, 6x3 ribbed lisle hose and brown calf shoes on a town last. The tie is of cashmere and has light-colored 'fig- ures on a dark background. Imme- Popularity Enjoyed By 'String' Gloves String gloves have enjoyed a cres- cendo in popularity within the past three years, and justifiably so, be- cause their value has been redognized N4q diately above the seacea figure is a stripes. He wears a dark grey shir gentleman wearing a double-breasted and a black background Spitalfields blue flannel suit bearing white chalk tie with a white starched collar, the 1whole making an ideal ensemble for New Color, Pattern The young man in the center of the picture is in a blue worsted two-but- Available In Socks ton notch lapel model suit with a natural roil to the lapel. He wears the blue Oxford button-down collar New colors and patterns in socks attached shirt so popular with young are available from the smart shops men, and with it a club striped tie. this year, and these good-looking Hi. father alongside of him is in accessories adid much to a smart Hsfte lnsd fhmi n accesores dd ouc toa sarta medium grey worsted suit with a turnout. In the group illustrated colored overstripe. With this h here the uppermost sock carries both wears a white starched widespread horizontal and vertical stripes and collarsand a bottle green crocheted is suitable for town wear. It is in tie. a mixture of silk and wool. The older gentleman to whom the Alongside of it is shown a country Tholegntmatow mte sock of wool in a bold blocked pat- youngster is being presented wears an tern. These are available in both Oxford grey double-breasted jacke brightly and conservatively colored with grey and black stried cashmer hosiery. The suitability of these trousers, black calf shoes, black and socks for Ann Arbor conditions is white Shepherd's check tie GIFTWORTHY SUGGESTIONS from Van Boven 's manifested in their great popularity here. With walking the principal means of getting places and high water pants still being worn, these socks have two good selling points" M a W eSut SoOf Th for they are both comfortable and good-looking. The bottom-most sock j! i of the group is perennially popular. M any Usefu ifts ForH iy It is the 6x3 ribbed lisie variety. The one shown here has double horizontal stripes set closely together. Socks may either harmonize or contrast with the rest of the ensemble and it M UFFLERS is a good idea to wear socks which have in them both the colors of the A CE SUEDE JACKETS suit and the tie worn, with the tie color predominating. STETSON HATS TUXEDOES EXCLUS IVE NECKWEAR NO-BELT PAJAMAS and C OOPER H ICKOK ARROW SHIRTS and SHORTS BELTS GLOVES SILK LOUNGING ROBES I SHIRTS ......... 2.50 to $5.00 CASES . $6.50 to $15.00 i - - - 11 W ww V V' S~l VVva- -- rw.-v sv I'ar v