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April 05, 1925 - Image 9

Resource type:
The Michigan Daily, 1925-04-05

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C, oil r

Ar 44F
414t r t ki u



VOL XXXV. No. 141








Campus Modes of Today and Yesterday

A Broader View on the Pants Situation

English Clothes as Seen in

America and the Real Togs of the Young Britisher

Some Remarks on the Advantages

of the Conformity of Collegiate Dress


T if


By Ed
4ind than a
The latter
movement c
A glance at the late
show just how far 1
And every time
"Ah! Mademoise
much, w'est-ce pas?
yard to its standar
women lQok to Pa
American styles for
roughly. Sometime
other times, closely.
But to get backt
of the specific point
add the yards? Th
No one has to g
"English Clothes,"
"British Models,'
so on. Chances are,
ing one of the so-ca
this. Pants wide al
amply broken over1
Joe College, '27, see
in the accompanyin
latest product from
London tailor who
pants question hadE
' Let us have a lo
dent wears. The E
wide, but not so bel
est width is just b
gradual tapering off
Permit me to be
use his majesty's i
place, to be worn s
waist than'over her
pany and the upper
about the wearer's v
As they descend
point just below tb
they narrow to them
about three inches
the cuff the pantsF
around! Compare
Models" here in An
so-called "British".
Most extrawdnry, a
(See the old bean it
is the typical Brit
inimitable Mr. Davi
I don't know wh
pants or their nar
greatest variance fr
gether they make tl
Every season, more
elusive. This Sprir
a broader view tha
But since Ameri
up with these of the
at the rest of a typi
be dismissed by sa
and stiffer than thei
ermore, oxfords, co

Iwin Phaintree --
lustrated by
sey Davidson In the accompany- forma
Davidsonn aseydivisic
day are noticed more for their ing cartoon, Halsey student frying to ap- wear
bsence, .says a women's modeste. Davidson, '25, has y in cut
is no longer interesting. r"The pear English. BelowAnu
f the hour is, "Back to Nature." presented, in the top
st Spring things for women will we have "today, paren
back they have got. row, campus stylesc y- tastes
Paris says to the ladies: of the decades from
lle, we will dispense with thees omorrow." Th
"-London adds another square 1850 to 1900. The Regard-wrong
d for men's pants. Just as the ing. the laer, the judgm
ris, so. do the men to London. Central figures are, neithe
men follow British styles .... artist remars Sim- result
s they follow at a distance, at the English studentply: "Use your own loses
and the American uo
to the pants, for therein lies onejudgment." amou
s of my ramble. Where do theycombi
iere, gentle reader, is the hitch. ", peal
o far to find an advertisement of tions,
"London Styles for Men," and exhibi
if you are a man, you are wear-srie
ie Englieh models areowead No discussion of British clothes, however stripe
led English models as you read would be entire without reference to the tell you about the day when the few hundred stu- and w
Il the way down, cuffs broad and rambling, woltehnieoihutrfrecso h
Prince of Wales' "invasion of the States." perhaps dents dressed like buccaneers and thought no more thlvs
the shoe---you know the picture. selves
n in the second row at the right he may be introduced no more appropriately than in about fancy sweater-vests and ornamental scarfs (and
connection with the particular fad he instituted on(adr
.g illustration, is displaying the than your aunt's cat. The top row of portrayals in going
the fertile imagination of some his late visit. I refer to certain shirt styles.
came to this country before the To my mind, his royal highness is directly re- the acompting strtion wil shw pitr faet
sponsible for the epidemic of blue and near-blue /4 the evolution of style on, the campus here over the repeat
entered his life,.no
enteed is ife spnsibe fr te eideic o ble ad nar-luelast half centuiry. Each in his time, we may safely future
ok at what a typical Oxford stu- shirts that is sweeping the country. In Englandl f uhum
nglishman's pants are wide, very colored shirts such as he wore so frequently have say, was the delight and despair of the Women's Ta]
low the calf. In fact, the great- long been common, I am informed. They are worn, league, and the envy of preceding generations. We m(
Blow the waist with a none too just like striped white shirts over there, quite see one with his doughty bicycle,-underslung, bal- them
to a very narrow cuff! generally. Both types had fallen into disfavor here loon tires, and the fastest thing on the street, if sayin
more minute. The trousers (to until the Prince slipped unseen from a cargo gang- \oyou please. Then it was that the bicycle (body by metic
dIom) are designed, in the first plank of the Berengaria a few months ago.yieth
everal inches higher around the They were popular in the East three weeks later. Fisher) was denounced like the motor car of today. heths
e. Suspenders invariably accom- Men's shops in New York and Chicago were selling .- Ikm ofhe v! silly se "dothe"ex-keanv
part of the garment fits snugly them when school opened last fall. The fad is ike. On each face, you will observe, is the ex- canva
waist in the manner of a skirt. dying now. pression particularly characteristic of each epoch. metics
l te ans ecme idr o /Nonchalance, daredeviltry, they are all there. assert
the pants become wider to a w i ? s dirt wtest
Whn we cl ied te Prince's blue tshir we u- est

i, on another something else. But within each
on he is allowed so much more variation. Some
blue tuxedos, others black. They vary widely
and finish. No two at a party will be dressed
alike. They do not strive for originality, ap-
tly. They simply express their individual
in all the small matters of dress to a far
r degree than we.
en again, English students have, rightly or
gly, a good deal of confidence in their own
ents in matters of taste. They depend on
r friends nor tailors for their examples. The
s sometimes gains in interest what it often
in beauty.
es our average student possess any appreciable
nt of taste? Can he recognize color clashes or
nations? Does he chose things for their ap-
o his own individual taste? To all these ques-
one State street dealer in men's clothing has
sled himself definitely negative. The dealer
ted some of his best sellers in ties. They were
d, the kind that enjoyed such a flare a while ago
what color mixtures! That type sold by the
ands here. The men's shops reported them-
unable to keep up with the demand for new
more atrocious) combinations. But they are
the way of so many other ripples on the sur-
of style. Just now we are seeing the single
ed device on a plain background. Those who
predict an era of occult polka dots in the near
. Their popularity is already budding.
ilors are not the only ones who say that the
gan man of today is a vain beast. A member of
edical staff of a ,local hospital is reported as
g that the "men of Michigan" use more cos-
s than the women. There is some doubt as to
er he was or was not classifying some things
,having cream and tooth-paste as cometics. A
s of some of the leading dispensers of cos-
s failed to completely substantiate this startling
ion, if one puts a strict construction on term in
ess can be one of the most effective publicity-
s known. Various famous people have been
ed of this aim in their eccentric attire. Not the
of these was the great writer and aesthete
Wilde. Among his many unique costumes
one which consisted of some very colorful
oons of some sort and a number of other highly
guishing features. This one he chose to wear
veral of his appearances while visiting America.
e night he was scheduled to lecture at Harvard
rsity. Now it so happened that one of the Har-
lads was let into the secret of the pink panta-
somewhat ahead of time. The audience the
evening must have been mildly interested to
score or more of student's file into the front
before the lecture dressed in a very unusual
Mme conisting of pink pantaloons and other un-
on features for evening wear. They hadn't seen
yet. Furthermore Oscar hadn't seen the boys
e front row yet and when he stepped onto the
in the self-same garb the amazement was quite
al. For those who are unfamiliar with him, I
add that Wilde was a large man in practically

ie waist-line. From here down
r lowermost conclusion, which is
above the ankle, not below! At
are seldom more than 14 inches
this figure with our "English
nerica. The average cuff on the
suits measures 22 to 25 inches!
ny Britisher would assur you.
n the second row at the left. He
ish college lad, as seen by the
ether, on sight, the length of the
row bottoms constitutes their
om the American tradition. To-
he relationship seem quite futile.
over, makes the similarity more
ng the American tailor promises
n ever.
can styles are irrevocably locked
e British Isles, let us have a look
ical English outfit. The shoes can
ying they are generally heavier
r American counterparts. Furth-
ntrary to the implication of the

fortunately neglected several attendant details..
These have to do, first with the pattern of the collar,
and second, with the manner of its wearing. The
British collar is high and wraps snugly about the
wearer's neck in what to uss would seem an uncom-
fortable and ugly way. Most important, the soft
collar is almost invariably buttoned down or held
together under the tie with a short gold pin. (See
illustration). Collars are usually of the detachable
sort and the soft variety are often replaced by a
wing-tip collar worn with a four-in-hand tie. This
combination is not confirmed to matinees and in-
formal theater parties, but is every where seen for
both school and business wear. The remarkable
imr. Johnson in his wing-tip collar would have drawn
no disgusted glances had he been- strolling through
Hyde Park or along Rotten Row instead of the
Thousands of British hats are genuuinely imported
and sold here every year. But like the suits, they
are usually either made specially for American con-
sumption and designed accordingly, or else they are
of an obscure or ultra-conservative design. In gen-

/ "/

The students, one notices, prefer the plain straight
stick terminating simply in a round silver knob.
Older men carry canes of more ornamental design
a nd bent handles.
Campus styles for men have changed slowly in
the past. Each year, however, the ebb and flow of
the masculine node has grown swifter until what
is surely the high water mark of today. I have
been told, by no less than a dozen men who are in
the business that students were never more exacting
in their dress than they are today. Never, they say,

Then compare these Chesterfieldian paragons with
the collegiate person at the bottom of the illustra-
tion. He is Today-"with a touch of Tomorrow."
Dashing youth that he is, this beknickered young
man is the picture of what the well-dressed man
will wear this Spring. In him the gentle and ex-
quisite art of haberdashery has paid its subtlest and
most magnificent tribute to Spring. (He is drawn
from the life; if you would see him post yourself
along the Diagonal some sunny afternoon and he
will not disappoint you.)
Of course there are other outfits suitable this
Spring, we are told. Yet could anything else be
quite so correctly correct, or so deliciously delicious.
As Paul Leicester Ford says, it would "be credible
to Palmerson at his palmiest and have made Bis-
marck even more marked than he is."
"College conformity" does not quite reach the
stage of uniforms, fortunately. Referring to our
English cousins again, however, it is undoubtedly
true that they dress with less agreement and more
variety than we. In a way this seems contradictory.
No nation is more rigidly insistent on certain regula-
tions of dress. At any sort of a dinner or dance, in

was o
on sev
see a
in th

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