THE MICHIGAN DAILY
ck on Black Denotes Fashions
Bearded, Bored, Beatnik Set
Some Coeds Favor Jeans;
Others Like Collegiate Look
Men's Topcoats Getting Shortei
Herringbone, Camel Stay Popul
the clothes question as in
areas of stimulating conjec-
the beat generation is grop-
or the light of truth.
e look for beatniksthis sea-
the epitone of the search;
is interpreted solely as a
[on of line and the outfit is
-s color-cued to negativism:
on black.
ce beatness entails motiva-
,empered by withdrawal, cre-
y without articulation, the
casual the better where dress
ncerned - somebody might
you cared.
e slick black look in separates
underlined by matching leo-
for cold weather (soiled
'al legs will do when it's
, or inside).
:essories stress simplicity --
heer, stark drama of a green
ag with that lived-in look,
to the costume look. The ori-
ginal Harvard Coop label has now
been duplicated by local ready-to-
wear houses, putting this little
touch within range of any bank-
book (an artifact that few beats
seem to lack).
Working from these wardrobe
hints, any budding existentialist
can pattern a new (if not indi-
vidual) personality.-If she's lucky
enough to resemble the ideal -
gaunt, black-tressed, with that
hunted look in her eyes - her in-'
tellectual blossoming may . occur
quite rapidly indeed.
Practicality, while not imme-
diately evident, plays a subtle role
in dictating style for the discrim-
inating beatnik (if the adjective
and verb aren't mutually incom-
patible).
Appropriate dress for classes
can be adapted for party wear by
the simple addition of a guitar
(p r e f e r a b ly not steel-string)
around the neck.
In fact, canny coeds don't even
change out of this all-purpose en-
semble at night. A representative,
campus beat notes that commer-
cial all-black sleepwear too often
bears the stigma of blatant capit-
alism.
Summarizing the fashion pic-
ture- for the beatnik, the watch-
word in graphic terms is this: to
thine own self be true, and it must
follow as the night the day thou
canst not.
And where else but in Ann Ar-
bor are umbrellas better justified?.
But the somber black of the um-
brella seems to reflect the stu-
dent's attempt toward dignity.
For the black umbrella goes not
only to Hill Auditorium, but to the
library, class, and football game
as well.
Nine out of every ten male col-
lege students dress well, and the
tenth needn't be identified.
Certainly University coeds do
not expect camel's hair overcoats,
dress suits, white button-down
shirts; ivy ties, and muted-tone
crewneck sweaters clothing every
man on -campus. But a well-co-
ordinated outfit would not drive
the coeds away-especially when
contrasted with black turtle-neck
sweaters and bluejeans.
What is the beatnik movement?
One coed described it as no more
than an excuse to dress sloppily
but give an aura of disciplined
mental 'faculties at the same time.
Another.cited the unshaven look
as a mark of laziness, excusable
because'a beard marks the wearer
as being intelligent.
As for dungarees and their place
on campus, University coeds in-
terviewed rebelled.
"Blue Jeans? They're good for
geology field trips, canoeing, and
the Arb.
"But on campus?" one coed
shuddered. "Never, never, never."
If so many articles of clothing
appear unacceptable to University,
women, what would they like to
see the men model?
"I like a clean-colored, button-
down shirt under a dark, well-
made sweater," a coed replied.
"Khakis or wool pants are fine."
"I'm not particular," another
answered. "A muted green crew-
neck, a tie with the same colored
stripe, a soft brown suit-that'll
do."
Another hung her philosophy
book on a branch, climbed down
from a tree and said, "Like men
swing. Clothes? Hair'll do."
The discriminate male will take
his topcoat out to be shortened
one and a half inches this year.
In fact, in less conservative
areas, it willrise to knee length.
The trend swings away from the
sporty, football-weekend topcoats
to a much more conservative and
classic line.
Herringbone, the prevailing pat-
tern, makes a strong appearance
along with the set-in sleeve. The
combination gives a trim, tailored
line which coordinates well with
the natural line in clothing.
Making a comeback in the top-
coat class is the double-breasted
camel's hair polo 'coat. The raglan
sleeve is popular too, offeting more
freedom of movement than the
set-in variety. Its appearance is
marked by a fuller cut and less
tailored look in thee body of the
coat.
Here, a very conservative "Bar-
ley-corn" pattern features a nubby
wool weave.
Those who can afford individu-
al ity will replace the outdated
sporty overcoat with new and im-
ported spoi't coat. Outstanding
examples feature unusual woolens,
Bavarian ant. Italian fabrics, and
appear often in checks, large her-
ringbones or similar patterns.
Some have fur collars, some color-
ful linings.
For campus wear the loden cloth
coat is king. Its attributes are
warmth, flexibility, excellent style
and element - repellence. Other
casual styles include the poplin
coats, less expensive, which have
the same outer shell as a trench-
coat but are reinforced with hoods
and orlon pile linings.
The British styled short poplin
jackets are as popular this year as
last: they are identified by a but-
toned collar and knitted cuffs and
waist, and, this year, appear in a
variety of mutations.
The newest adaptation of the
jacket features a cape shoulder
with a seam running across the
sleeve.
It is a season of good taste this
year in campus clothes that are
casual yet sophisticated.
Male Waists
Growing Thin
LET'S
DEFINE our TERMS
.0
SENSIBLE'PRICES: One look at J. B. Towne price tags is
the best definition of "sensible prices" we can think of. We
could call them "Discount," "Cut-rote/' or "Sale Priced,"
but we're just not that type of shop-much too tweedy, you
know!
QUALITY MERCHANDISE: What good are sensible prices
if you haven't got high style, high quality merchandise? We
carry a complete line of authentic easternand traditionally
Michigan furnishings, sportswear, and interesting accessories.
LATEST STYLES: This sort of speaks for itself! Like it says
in the ads, "Since 1959" ... so everything is brand new. No
left-overs from last season can be found at J. B. Towne. Come
to think of it, if business continues at this rate, we may run
out of stock!
INTIMATE LITTLE SHO: That's what everyone is calling
J. B. Towne. In truth, if more than six people are in the
store at any one time, we're violating the fire laws! It makes
for Togetherness, though. Rememberthat old saying, "Nice
things come in small packages."
SUBSTANTIAL SAVINGS: Referring to money, of course!
You'll find that you can buy so much more, yet spend less at
J. B. Towne. A welcome relief to every allowance!
Now that we've set it down in black and white, isn't it time
you stopped in at J. B. Towne to see for yourself?t
I " The American male is growing
bigger and smaller at. the same
time, according to' anthropologists,
clothiers, and manufacturers.
- For while some of his measure-
ments are getting broader, 'other
parts of him are decreasing.
A United States Army survey
compared studies made of the
measurements of thousands of
soldiers after World Wars I and
II. It was found that in thirty
years the American fighting man
had grown three-quarters of an
inch taller, weighed ten more
pounds and had a one and one-
half-inch larger chest. His waist,
however, had slimmed some .03 of
an inch.
It is further reported that while
stature is increasing and shoulders
are widening, the region around
land below the waist is getting
relatively smaller.
The recent decline of the male
waistline has been attributed to
diet-conscious wives and the Pres-
x -ident's heart attack in 1955, which
has made businessmen aware that
fat is dangerous.
The changing male measure-
ments have led many clothes man-
ufacturers to change the propor-
tions in the clothes they make.
Although many manufactureres
- make a size 37 suit with a 37-inch
chest and a 3i-inch waist, others
nowhmake the waist 30.h
inch since it's easier to take it in
than to let it out.
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* refer to McCalls
Towne Topics Shown:
Striped Shaggy Crewneck
. .
Umbrella . .
Corduroy Slacks
Adler Sweat Sox
. . ..$10.75
. . . $3.25
. . . . $4.55
. .
. .
" r " f " r " 5 * 0"*"
.75
Ties
. . . . . .
. . . . . . .
. . . . .9
.". "1.25
. .. . $3.75
Dress Shirts. ..
I. .owtw~n