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April 23, 1961 - Image 15

Resource type:
The Michigan Daily, 1961-04-23

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SUNDAY, APRIL 23, 1961
Continental, Ivy Trends
Conservatism of Men's


LOCAL FAVORITE-According to campus haberdashers, young
men here prefer the traditional ivy-cut white dinner Jacket to
some of the newer continental styles for summer. Tastes are
generally conservative, they add.
Sumerian Status Seekers
Flashed First Social Gems

Styles in men's formal clothes
change relatively slowly and, as
some Ann Arbor clothiers pointa
out, men on this campus take a
conservative attitude toward ac-
cepting new trends in formal wear.
The "continental" influence is
the most striking innovation af-
fecting the traditional tuxedo in'
several years. This new approach
makes the suits look lighter by
doing away with excess cloth and
compressing lines vertically to
make men look taller and a little
more trim.
Styling details for the true
"continental" tux include coats
with cuffed sleeves and angled or
curved pockets, narrow shawl col-
lars of satin or sometimes velvet,
and tapered, cuffless trousers with
a single pleat and tabs to make
them self-supporting.]
Dark Colors
Colors are dark, but textured
weaves often highlight the som-
ber fabrics.
Shirts to match such suits are
very fancy with lace or pleated
trim. Intricately embroidered de-
signs also spark the traditionala
plain shirt fronts.
Campus men here have ignored
the "true" continental tuxedo and
its ruffled details, some haber-
dashers maintain. Instead Michi-
gan men who order formal wear
have stuck closely to the older "ivy
league" 'styles and modified or
semi-continental suits.
The "vy look" features natural
shoulder coats with flap pockets
and cuffless sleeves. The modified
continental style generally uses
fewer frills, but it retains the
long, tapered lines and slanted
open pockets of its more sophisti-
cated relative.
Conservative Trend
Although tending to more con-
servative formal dress, the young
men here do satisfy their taste for
extravagance by choosing pat-
terned and embroidered ties and
cummerbunds. They often select
formal "stud" bow ties which are
simple strips of velvet or grosgrain
crossed under the collar and held
in place by a pearl or fabric but-
ton. Wide, casual bows reminiscent
of Brady portraits of the last cen-
tury are also a big item appealing
to local taste.
For warm weather the "ivy" or
modified continental dinner jacket
is still preferred, although local
stores offer coats of Batik or Ma-
dras prints. Many of the white
ones are of wash-and-wear mate-
rial - very convenient but some-
what more expensive.
Luggage Has
Bright Look
High fashion colors and light-
weight, soft fabrics are the sell-
ing points for luggage this year.
Traditional solid dark colors
have been replaced in recent years
by bright plaids, tweeds and pat-
terned leathers. The latest fab-
ric is tapestry, found in suitcases
of all sizes and also in matching'
Flexible, soft luggage is dis-
proving the misconception that1
fabric cases are weak, a local
leather goods store owner said.
There are sturdy garment bags
that can be folded for travel and]
then hung up at the destination.:
These come in bright plaids withi

leather trappings.v
Another synthetic material ad-
vertises "crush it, flex it, bend it,s
it bounces back." This luggage has
an advantage as it is lightweighta

Ann Arbor Clothiers Differ
In Predicting Pants'Trends
New Hues, More Chords Attract Customers,
But Continental-Ivy Debate Mostly Academic



The word for pants this spring
is confusion.
Many of the local haberdasher-
ies have differing outlooks on the
trends. in trouser styles.
One store employee felt very
strongly that there is a definite
movement toward the continental
look. "It is very popular in the
East now," he said, "and mid-
western styles usually will follow
the eastern trends."
Current Transition
He said that there is currently
a transitional period between ivy
league and continental. This is
reflected by the slimmer look of
this spring's pants.
Some of his wares have cuffs,
some do not; some can be worn
with or without a belt; some have
plain fronts with pocket flaps,
others do not.
However, another store man-
ager disagreed. "Continental is
dead," he said succinctly. His
store is carrying practically no
beltless, cuffless, flap - pocketed
and very narrow trousers. He saw
no indications for a student de-
mand for them in the future.
Not Much Difference
Aside from a trend which may
or may not exist, there seems to
be very little that is actually dif-
ferent in slacks styles this spring.

As usual, the biggest sellers are
the traditional chinos in dull
white and dark green. There are
more sales in blue and brown
chinos than last year.
Chords are getting to be more
popular. The light brown and light
blue styles are selling well and a
new light green model seems to
be attracting interest from many
Perhaps the biggest change in
pants styles is in the increased
availability of wash and wear
models. New dyes have been de-
veloped so that they will not run.
Many blue dacron and cotton
trousers have this new feature.
Not Much New
One store manager frankly said
that there was very little new in
trousers this spring. However, he
said that pants styles tend to
evolve every three or four years.
Thus there is a considerable dif-
ference between styles of now and
1957, although there is little be-
tween now and last spring.
There is much more diversifica-
tion in the trouser styles, he said.
Four years ago chinos could be
sold only in white and green, now
students will buy them in brown
and blue. Also, many new mater-
ials and fabrics have arisen, par-
ticularly orlon.


Extremely Tight Men's Swimsuits
Predicted Popular This Summer

Jewelry made its first sophisti-
cated appearance in the western
world in Sumer, about 5,000 B.C.
This sets off Sumer as the first
civilized society.
Since gems and precious metals
are both expensive and relatively
light, they may be used to display
wealth as well as provide adorn-
ment. Moreover, jewelry was and
is a means to indicate one's social
The pharaohs wore much elab-
orate jewelry and very little else.
The fashionable woman of today
would sometimes seem to .follow
their,, example. But not in the
winter. Naturally enough, jewelry
really came into its own in very
hot countries where it didn't have
to compete with clothes for atten-
Human Body Modified
Very often, the human body
has, been modified to suit some
necessary bit of decoration. In
taster Island, for example, the
people known as the "Long Ears"
were the aristocrats and every
new-born aristocrat had to start
at an early age to obtain the de-

sired length of lobe. The ear rings
were weighty matters.
Ear rings have had a long and
varied history. There is mention
of them in the book of Genesis.
The first ear-decorations were
probably amulets and talismans,
which were protection against evil.
Among the, orientals, ear rings
were worn by both sexes. The He-
brews and the Egyptians regarded
them as exclusively female orna-
ments. However, if we are to be-
lieve . the records, Blackbeard,
Kidd, Long Ben and other bloody
sons of the cutlass and yard-arm
would not have agreed with the
Other Uses
┬žignet-rings have been put to
other purposes than display and
identification. The bezel of the
ring can be hollowed and filled
with poison, as the kind used in
the suicide of Hannibal. The Vene-
tians (probably on reputation) are
credited with the medieval "anello
della morte," a ring in which,
among the elaborate fretwork of
the bezel, a hollow point had been
concealed so that one could inflict
a fatal scratch. while shaking
hands with one's enemy.

-Daily-Henry Yee
TROUSER TRENDS-Some stores are stocking continentals, like
the pair worn by the model on the left, but it is presently uncer-
tain if they will be popular locally. Chinos (right). once again
figure to be the mainstay in campus trouser apparel.

and has a more flexible capacity
in case of last minute packing.
Also in the lightweight class is
the "casual" luggage, or light,
sturdy cases with zipper fasteners
as opposed to the metal catches.
The store owner said another
misconception of the traveler is
that leather luggage is intrinsical-
ly heavy. This idea grew up years
ago when leather was stretched
over heavy frames. Now that
lightweight case structure is avail-
able, leather luggage is as light
or lighter than fiberglass or syn-
Accessories for the traveler are
abundant in any luggage store.
There is the "portable porter" or
a set of detachable wheels. which

can be attached to large suitcases
for easy self-porter service. For
men there are leather toiletry kits
or compact clothes brushes with
shaving kits or manicure sets built
into the handles. The women have
brightly patterned plastic cosmetic
bags, outfitted with folding tooth-
brush, plastic bottles, and shower-
For the international traveler
there is the passport case or the
travel wallet. As European money
is larger than American, the wal-
lets are wider with space for tick-
ets, landing card and' passport.


-Fred Shippey
TRANSFORMATION-Jewelry like the bracelet and necklace
shown above has come a long' way since 5000 B.C. Today al-
though it is still sometimes used as a mystical symbol and for
identification purposes, jewelry's main function is to compli-
ment styles and to give "feminine allure."
Spring is sprung, the grass is riz,
You all know where the tandems is!


┬░=..,.the newes
solid color coo
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a newgi
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;t sportcoat is a
at..the color,
Drawn here, our
from Cricketeer
or, a new olive,
lue, a new clay,
gray ... picking
upmore news in
'e Twill Weave.



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