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October 19, 1958 - Image 13

Resource type:
The Michigan Daily, 1958-10-19

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CasualnessAccents Accessories

'Relaxed Look' To Follow
Extreme Chemise Fashions

1958's Trends Approach 1920'

With less dress draping the
forms of modern American wo-
men, more attention is being di-
rected to the accompanying ac-
eessories, all of which reflect the
loose, relaxed casualness of the
country look.
With hemlines receding, this
fall's shoe styles match the chal-
lenge by featuring a higher cut.
The ground rule in sports shoes
is the boot, ranging from the
ankle to the knee in height. This
footgear offers not only added,
foot protection in, wet or cold
weather but also a colorful accent'
to one's outfit.
Tights Popular
Available with Ilat or bobbin
heels, pointed or squared toes,
fancy fur collars or a straight-
laced effect, boots are meant to
be worn with maching colored
These opaque nylon leotards,
once the sole property of dancers,
have been adopted by the fashion
world ..and transformed into
brightly colored leg wear.
A sheerer edition of leotard,
leggings is tinted hosiery, which
the young fashion plate wears
with dress pumps. Vestiges of the'
'20's, these heels parallel the boots
in sports wear with ^high-rising
T-straps or laced, oxford-type.
Belts Dropped
As shoes and hemlines are rising,
belts are also refusing to remain
in their customary places. Chemise
styles drop he belt from the waist
to the hipline, while the Empire
gives it new height.
So placed either north or south
of the Equator, belts are usually
reduced to thin, self-belts to avoid;
calling attention to their anomo-
Meeting the waistline halfway,
this year's jewelry is stressing the
long, relaxed look of the chemise
and the trapeze. Beads and me-
da.llions hanging from long chains
are very pbminent, while ear-
rings, pins and rings of gracefully

prominent style both' fashionable,
and practical..Straight from the
country forests, this is the boxy
or pointed fur hat, a shaggy rus-
tic crown to asmart, 'Yet com-
fortable, outfit.
Dress styles range from toques
of opposum chechia to tawny
domes of red natural fox. A more
practical school edition is an imi-
tation fur or shaggy knit stocking
cap that warms the ears while a
matching furry scarf provides ad-
ditional protection against the
While waist and'hemlines may
continue to wander, all eyes will
remain fixed on this fall's line of
accessories, with their relaxed ap-
pearance and fit._

After a year of the sack dressy
and the chemise, this year's fash-
ion experts forcast . . . the Re-
laxed Look.
This means the end of the ex-
treme look of last year and the
tightly waisted dresses of former
years. Today there is no excuse
for girls to say "These new dresses
aren't for me ..:."
More exciting, and new for this
year is the length of the skirts .. .
up, up, up, is the cry. No more are
legs to be hidden by long skirts.
This year the look is narrow with
the tapered skirts barely skim-
ming the knees at 17 and 18
inches. This is much more becom-
ing to the eye.
The accent is on the waistline

...add spice to outfit
curved silver offer additional or-
nament smartly and simply.
Oriental Influences
To compliment harem skirts
thin hammered gold or silver
bracelets, worn in pairs or in trios,
look as if they were purchased at
an oriental bazaar.-
Gloves, handbags and the fre-
quently, accompanying umbrella
all exemplify the long, sleek look.
Gloves now frequently rise above
the wrist to the mid-arm or elbow.
Their new length matches the
sack-like or tubular appearances
of purses, the latter often serv-
ing as pocketbooks, laundry bags,
lunch boxes and book sacks
among college girls.
Hats Ignored
As much as they utilize their
handbags, coeds seem to ignore
hats. Chemise "headache bands"
are frequently the only ornaments
worn-on coeds' heads, except for
the occasional "Sunday-go-to-
church" chapeau handed down
from mother.
Once cold weather comes, how-
ever, they -might find, this fall's

Artist's Imaginations Soar,
In Wedding Gown Designs

Romantic ball gowns reminis-
cent of the old South have inspired
wedding gown designers to let
their imaginations soar this sea-
There is something serenely
beautiful in the autumn bride
making the trip to the altar ar-
rayed in a full length gown of
traditional splendor. One classic
creation features a top of glisten-
ing Doupioni and sleeves re-em-
roidered with Alencon lace.
A bias fold of fabric circles the
waist low and ties in a huge dou-
ble bow in back. The gathered
skirt is flat in front and ends at
the floor in the new soft harem
Taffeta Popular
For the ultra-feminine bride,
the choice for the season is taf-.
feta that rustles like a ripple of
soft laughter and frosty lace that
flatters more sweetly than the
words of the groom.
A dramatic note is struck in the
line of a new gown that is classic

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with the gentle dignity of white
satin. Highlighted with re - emr-
broidered, jev/el-studded Alencon
lace, the dress of deep'lustre satin
is worn with a matching pearl
crown and floor length veil.
Fairy-tale fantasy for the even-.
ing wedding is provided by an "I
do'' taffeta gow ntopped with a
chagilly type lace, sequin studded
bodice. The sides of the skirt are
cut in crescent shaped panels and
caught up with dainty taffeta
bows. The bouffant gathered skirt
has a brush train for more glamor.
Blue Featured
For the sentimental bride, some-
thing blue is a feature of one ro-
mantic, yarn-dyed taffeta dress'
appliqued with frosty lace and be-
ribboned with velvet. The skirt
is gathered into the graceful folds
of a chapel train. A lace mantilla,
reminiscent of the old Spanish
tradition, adds just the right effect
to the ensemble.
The graceful bell silhouette is
shown in' one creation covered
with a petal-shaped. overskirt
caught at either side with a tiny
satin bow. The regality of the re-
movable Watteau back panel ex-
tends into the fan-pleated train
of precious D'Artegnan lace.
For the young and and adven-'
turous, the traditional gown has
undergone a change in accordance
with today's current fashion trend.'
Bodice Featured
Featuring the high-waisted Em-,
pire bodice, the newest creation
also has a shallow scoop neckline'
and soft push-up sleeves. A huge
box-pleat forms a panel effect at
the front of the bell-shaped skirt.
The intriguing gathered-back
skirt falls in the revolutionary tra-
peze line from the high waist to
the top of the floor-length train.
Fashioned from luxurious silk-
faced satin, the fabulous costume
features a hand-painted warp
print pattern.
Whether you prefer the regally
beautiful traditional gown or the
new feminine Empire look, the
dress you wear when you take
your marriage vows will rise to
the occasion.

whether it be Empire-high (pro-
nounced ahm-peer by those who
know) or hip-deep. But if a coed
plans on wearing them knee-
deep, she had been fasten her
safety belt.
The Empire dresses can be seen
in many varieties. In dressier ver-
sions, a rose, or velvet ribbon may
adorn the high waistline.
The Empire line has. had a long
history. Its origin was probably
some 160 years ago. It took the
French Revolution to bring in the
new silhouette and Napoleon's de-
feat at Waterloo to get rid of it.
' Symbolizes Look
Mme. Recamier, the most beau-
tiful woman of the salon, came to
symbolize the look. Today, too, the
look has been referred to as the
Recamier look. It flourished again
some five years ago, and now it
is in :the height of its glory.
There is no wonder that it is so
popular. For the Empire line is
very flattering. The lines are free
flowing, accenting the narrowness
of the midrif. The total effect is
very relaxed while remaining trim
and neat.
Alsd popular this year is the
trapeze. To be more exact, it is
called the Modified Trapeze, or
Popover. It is best to wear a tra-
peze short and sweeping.
Look Relaxed
In the world of suits the look,
too, is. relaxed. Seems to be every-
where, doesn't it? Babrics are very
important ... there's furry jackets,
souflee knits, basketweave wool
tweeds in brilliant colors. This
year's fashions in suits are a long
cry from the nipped in, gray article
standard a few years back.
Colors, in suits and dresses, are
high and plentiful . . . greens,
golds, bitter oranges and all shades
of blue. Plaids too are extremely'
big and popular this year.
There is no reason why any girl
on campus can't brighten up her
wardrobe 'with any of the new
styles. There is a vast array in
color, size and fabric. One may say
that this year, is the means be-
tween the extremes . . of the
sack and tightly waisted types.
New Ideas
In Nightwear
Upon opening any fashion mag-
azine one is confronted by won-
derful new ideas in lounging and
sleeping wear.
Corduroy is a big fabric in this
department this year. It easily
takes the bright new colors so
prominent everywhere else in
fashion and it is very easy to care
For sleeping, there are corduroy
sacks and jump suits which re-
semble gym suits. For lounging,
many pajamas come with match-
ing corduroy coats. These are es-
pecially good for frosty Sunday
mornings in places like Ann Arbor.
Bermudas have come into their
own as sleepy-time fashions. Tops
to bermuda pajamas run the gam-
ut in design..

Fall fashions have to be ap-
proached with the gay, youthful
attitude of the flat-chested,
rolled-stockinged era of the 20's.
The fashion conscious coed has
to forget that the waistline ever
existed, and perhaps imbibe a
little prohibition brew before be-
ing most effective and completely
at ease in the new fall clothes.
One must practice slouching in
the approved hips-forward slink
of the 1920s. Athletic talents will
come to the fore, too, as coeds
practice climbing into a car and
sitting down in a tight, knee-
length pencil skirt.
Accessories Count
Accessories count in the casual-
ly draped effect, too. A long black
cigarette holder and long, dang-
ling earrings to go with the fox
boa and rope of several inter-
twined looped necklaces are need-
ed. Some bar pins will also add
to the new jeweled look.
As drastic as this sounds at
first, ,the horror gradually dimin-
ishes when the new fall fashions
are viewed in the proper perspec-
According to a preview in New
York for the press, this season's
fashions offer so many choices of
silhouette and style that they
provide enough variety to suit
every taste and shape of thef
American woman.
. New Waistline
The high-waisted Empire orj
Bo-peep silhouette featuring the
waistline just under the bust from
which skirts gather, drape or fall,7
where shawls are tucked orf
sashes, cummerbunds or bodices
begin, is the biggest news this fall.
But the fashion experts are also
offering the long-torso line, the
halloon shape, the bubble silhou'.
ette, the relaxed sheath ,never
call it a chemise!) and the Tra-
peze line,'
There's also a pearl-shaped sil-
houette, a scythe silhouette, .a
globe shape, a harem skirt, a ca-
mise, a Directoire look, a Jose-
phine trend, a blouson, a galleon
or hammock back treatment, -a
box-shape (that looks just like a
cigarette package) ,and the Lib-
erty look, a hobble-skirted crea-
tion that reaches almost to the
Natural Stressed
All tend to stress the natural
feminine curves of the wearer and
all strictly ignore the natural
waistline while showing the knees.
Suits this season will have
short, loose jackets and skirts set
on a camisole top, to achieve the
high-waisted loosely flowing look.
It may include a brief overblouse,
ending just below the bust and
made either of matching suit ma-
terial or a silk to match the jacket
To add the necessary accessory
touch to these relaxed outfits,
one wears a fur hat or a softly
crushed felt or velours topper,
pointed toe shoes with rapier
heels. Matching colored stockings
and lots of costume jewelry will
complete the effect.
Styles New
Different is the key word for
fall fabrics. The new looped mo-

336 South State

... hips forward teb
hair which looks bulky but is
feather-light and comes in subtle
stained-glass window colors, is a
favorite for coats and bulky suit
Designers are also using many
printed wools and wool brocades,
rich velvets, stiff, rustling silks
and also wash-and-wear fabrics
that can be thrown in the wash-
ing machine and worn without
Coats range from Empire to
dust-ruffle s i l h o u e t t e s, and
dresses skip the waistline entirely
with loose belts either just below
the bust or anywhere from the
hips to the hemline.1

There will probably be a few
full skirts for evening wear, but
they will be balloon or globe
shaped, with harem hemlines.
-There's also the favorite balloon
silhouette, using a ballooningback
panel that looks like the almost-
extinct chemise from the rear.
The current fashion trend away
from the tube-like silhouette of
the chemise to the more relaxed
femininity of the Empire line was
expressed recently by a young
Paris designer who "wants to
make women look beautiful again"
and loves women "with their own
shapes" and only aims "to embel-
lish what God created!""

hnique is also popular

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