ADVERTISEMENT THE MICHIGAN DAILY ADVERTISEMENT ADVERTISEMENT THE MICHIGAN DAILY ADVERTISEMENT CasualnessAccents Accessories 'Relaxed Look' To Follow Extreme Chemise Fashions YOUTHFUL ATTITUDE: 1958's Trends Approach 1920' With less dress draping the forms of modern American wo- men, more attention is being di- rected to the accompanying ac- eessories, all of which reflect the loose, relaxed casualness of the country look. With hemlines receding, this fall's shoe styles match the chal- lenge by featuring a higher cut. The ground rule in sports shoes is the boot, ranging from the ankle to the knee in height. This footgear offers not only added, foot protection in, wet or cold weather but also a colorful accent' to one's outfit. Tights Popular Available with Ilat or bobbin heels, pointed or squared toes, fancy fur collars or a straight- laced effect, boots are meant to be worn with maching colored tights. These opaque nylon leotards, once the sole property of dancers, have been adopted by the fashion world ..and transformed into brightly colored leg wear. A sheerer edition of leotard, leggings is tinted hosiery, which the young fashion plate wears with dress pumps. Vestiges of the' '20's, these heels parallel the boots in sports wear with ^high-rising T-straps or laced, oxford-type. openings. Belts Dropped As shoes and hemlines are rising, belts are also refusing to remain in their customary places. Chemise styles drop he belt from the waist to the hipline, while the Empire gives it new height. So placed either north or south of the Equator, belts are usually reduced to thin, self-belts to avoid; calling attention to their anomo- lous'positions. Meeting the waistline halfway, this year's jewelry is stressing the long, relaxed look of the chemise and the trapeze. Beads and me- da.llions hanging from long chains are very pbminent, while ear- rings, pins and rings of gracefully prominent style both' fashionable, and practical..Straight from the country forests, this is the boxy or pointed fur hat, a shaggy rus- tic crown to asmart, 'Yet com- fortable, outfit. Dress styles range from toques of opposum chechia to tawny domes of red natural fox. A more practical school edition is an imi- tation fur or shaggy knit stocking cap that warms the ears while a matching furry scarf provides ad- ditional protection against the cold. While waist and'hemlines may continue to wander, all eyes will remain fixed on this fall's line of accessories, with their relaxed ap- pearance and fit._ After a year of the sack dressy and the chemise, this year's fash- ion experts forcast . . . the Re- laxed Look. This means the end of the ex- treme look of last year and the tightly waisted dresses of former years. Today there is no excuse for girls to say "These new dresses aren't for me ..:." More exciting, and new for this year is the length of the skirts .. . up, up, up, is the cry. No more are legs to be hidden by long skirts. This year the look is narrow with the tapered skirts barely skim- ming the knees at 17 and 18 inches. This is much more becom- ing to the eye. The accent is on the waistline ACCESSORIES' ...add spice to outfit curved silver offer additional or- nament smartly and simply. Oriental Influences To compliment harem skirts thin hammered gold or silver bracelets, worn in pairs or in trios, look as if they were purchased at an oriental bazaar.- Gloves, handbags and the fre- quently, accompanying umbrella all exemplify the long, sleek look. Gloves now frequently rise above the wrist to the mid-arm or elbow. Their new length matches the sack-like or tubular appearances of purses, the latter often serv- ing as pocketbooks, laundry bags, lunch boxes and book sacks among college girls. Hats Ignored As much as they utilize their handbags, coeds seem to ignore hats. Chemise "headache bands" are frequently the only ornaments worn-on coeds' heads, except for the occasional "Sunday-go-to- church" chapeau handed down from mother. Once cold weather comes, how- ever, they -might find, this fall's Artist's Imaginations Soar, In Wedding Gown Designs Romantic ball gowns reminis- cent of the old South have inspired wedding gown designers to let their imaginations soar this sea- son. There is something serenely beautiful in the autumn bride making the trip to the altar ar- rayed in a full length gown of traditional splendor. One classic creation features a top of glisten- ing Doupioni and sleeves re-em- roidered with Alencon lace. A bias fold of fabric circles the waist low and ties in a huge dou- ble bow in back. The gathered skirt is flat in front and ends at the floor in the new soft harem hemline. Taffeta Popular For the ultra-feminine bride, the choice for the season is taf-. feta that rustles like a ripple of soft laughter and frosty lace that flatters more sweetly than the words of the groom. A dramatic note is struck in the line of a new gown that is classic 20th ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL * 20 Hours of Dancing Instruction * 6 Hours Group Lessons .:6 Hours Latin American Session * 3 Hours Studio Party Reg. $75 Value PLUS $3750 *10 Lessons Private Instruction iflthw( 1Itunaq £tudk4 1311 SOUTH UNIVERSITY NOrmandy 2-5539' with the gentle dignity of white satin. Highlighted with re - emr- broidered, jev/el-studded Alencon lace, the dress of deep'lustre satin is worn with a matching pearl crown and floor length veil. Fairy-tale fantasy for the even-. ing wedding is provided by an "I do'' taffeta gow ntopped with a chagilly type lace, sequin studded bodice. The sides of the skirt are cut in crescent shaped panels and caught up with dainty taffeta bows. The bouffant gathered skirt has a brush train for more glamor. Blue Featured For the sentimental bride, some- thing blue is a feature of one ro- mantic, yarn-dyed taffeta dress' appliqued with frosty lace and be- ribboned with velvet. The skirt is gathered into the graceful folds of a chapel train. A lace mantilla, reminiscent of the old Spanish tradition, adds just the right effect to the ensemble. The graceful bell silhouette is shown in' one creation covered with a petal-shaped. overskirt caught at either side with a tiny satin bow. The regality of the re- movable Watteau back panel ex- tends into the fan-pleated train of precious D'Artegnan lace. For the young and and adven-' turous, the traditional gown has undergone a change in accordance with today's current fashion trend.' Bodice Featured Featuring the high-waisted Em-, pire bodice, the newest creation also has a shallow scoop neckline' and soft push-up sleeves. A huge box-pleat forms a panel effect at the front of the bell-shaped skirt. The intriguing gathered-back skirt falls in the revolutionary tra- peze line from the high waist to the top of the floor-length train. Fashioned from luxurious silk- faced satin, the fabulous costume features a hand-painted warp print pattern. Whether you prefer the regally beautiful traditional gown or the new feminine Empire look, the dress you wear when you take your marriage vows will rise to the occasion. whether it be Empire-high (pro- nounced ahm-peer by those who know) or hip-deep. But if a coed plans on wearing them knee- deep, she had been fasten her safety belt. The Empire dresses can be seen in many varieties. In dressier ver- sions, a rose, or velvet ribbon may adorn the high waistline. The Empire line has. had a long history. Its origin was probably some 160 years ago. It took the French Revolution to bring in the new silhouette and Napoleon's de- feat at Waterloo to get rid of it. ' Symbolizes Look Mme. Recamier, the most beau- tiful woman of the salon, came to symbolize the look. Today, too, the look has been referred to as the Recamier look. It flourished again some five years ago, and now it is in :the height of its glory. There is no wonder that it is so popular. For the Empire line is very flattering. The lines are free flowing, accenting the narrowness of the midrif. The total effect is very relaxed while remaining trim and neat. Alsd popular this year is the trapeze. To be more exact, it is called the Modified Trapeze, or Popover. It is best to wear a tra- peze short and sweeping. Look Relaxed In the world of suits the look, too, is. relaxed. Seems to be every- where, doesn't it? Babrics are very important ... there's furry jackets, souflee knits, basketweave wool tweeds in brilliant colors. This year's fashions in suits are a long cry from the nipped in, gray article standard a few years back. Colors, in suits and dresses, are high and plentiful . . . greens, golds, bitter oranges and all shades of blue. Plaids too are extremely' big and popular this year. There is no reason why any girl on campus can't brighten up her wardrobe 'with any of the new styles. There is a vast array in color, size and fabric. One may say that this year, is the means be- tween the extremes . . of the sack and tightly waisted types. New Ideas In Nightwear Upon opening any fashion mag- azine one is confronted by won- derful new ideas in lounging and sleeping wear. Corduroy is a big fabric in this department this year. It easily takes the bright new colors so prominent everywhere else in fashion and it is very easy to care for. For sleeping, there are corduroy sacks and jump suits which re- semble gym suits. For lounging, many pajamas come with match- ing corduroy coats. These are es- pecially good for frosty Sunday mornings in places like Ann Arbor. Bermudas have come into their own as sleepy-time fashions. Tops to bermuda pajamas run the gam- ut in design.. Fall fashions have to be ap- proached with the gay, youthful attitude of the flat-chested, rolled-stockinged era of the 20's. The fashion conscious coed has to forget that the waistline ever existed, and perhaps imbibe a little prohibition brew before be- ing most effective and completely at ease in the new fall clothes. One must practice slouching in the approved hips-forward slink of the 1920s. Athletic talents will come to the fore, too, as coeds practice climbing into a car and sitting down in a tight, knee- length pencil skirt. Accessories Count Accessories count in the casual- ly draped effect, too. A long black cigarette holder and long, dang- ling earrings to go with the fox boa and rope of several inter- twined looped necklaces are need- ed. Some bar pins will also add to the new jeweled look. As drastic as this sounds at first, ,the horror gradually dimin- ishes when the new fall fashions are viewed in the proper perspec- tive. According to a preview in New York for the press, this season's fashions offer so many choices of silhouette and style that they provide enough variety to suit every taste and shape of thef American woman. . New Waistline The high-waisted Empire orj Bo-peep silhouette featuring the waistline just under the bust from which skirts gather, drape or fall,7 where shawls are tucked orf sashes, cummerbunds or bodices begin, is the biggest news this fall. But the fashion experts are also offering the long-torso line, the halloon shape, the bubble silhou'. ette, the relaxed sheath ,never call it a chemise!) and the Tra- peze line,' There's also a pearl-shaped sil- houette, a scythe silhouette, .a globe shape, a harem skirt, a ca- mise, a Directoire look, a Jose- phine trend, a blouson, a galleon or hammock back treatment, -a box-shape (that looks just like a cigarette package) ,and the Lib- erty look, a hobble-skirted crea- tion that reaches almost to the ground. Natural Stressed All tend to stress the natural feminine curves of the wearer and all strictly ignore the natural waistline while showing the knees. Suits this season will have short, loose jackets and skirts set on a camisole top, to achieve the high-waisted loosely flowing look. It may include a brief overblouse, ending just below the bust and made either of matching suit ma- terial or a silk to match the jacket lining. To add the necessary accessory touch to these relaxed outfits, one wears a fur hat or a softly crushed felt or velours topper, pointed toe shoes with rapier heels. Matching colored stockings and lots of costume jewelry will complete the effect. Styles New Different is the key word for fall fabrics. The new looped mo- MICHGANicIi SOUVENIRS BLANKETS BEER MUGS T-SHIRTS * SWEAT SHIRTS . JACKETS PENNANTS . FELT ANIMALS BANNERS . ASH TRAYS * BOOK ENDS PEN SETS * SCRAP BOOKS * ALBUMS STATIONERY MUSICAL FOOTBALLS YOUR COLLEGE BOOKSTORE 336 South State WAISTLINES ... hips forward teb hair which looks bulky but is feather-light and comes in subtle stained-glass window colors, is a favorite for coats and bulky suit jackets.' Designers are also using many printed wools and wool brocades, rich velvets, stiff, rustling silks and also wash-and-wear fabrics that can be thrown in the wash- ing machine and worn without ironing. Coats range from Empire to dust-ruffle s i l h o u e t t e s, and dresses skip the waistline entirely with loose belts either just below the bust or anywhere from the hips to the hemline.1 There will probably be a few full skirts for evening wear, but they will be balloon or globe shaped, with harem hemlines. -There's also the favorite balloon silhouette, using a ballooningback panel that looks like the almost- extinct chemise from the rear. The current fashion trend away from the tube-like silhouette of the chemise to the more relaxed femininity of the Empire line was expressed recently by a young Paris designer who "wants to make women look beautiful again" and loves women "with their own shapes" and only aims "to embel- lish what God created!"" FORGOTTEN hnique is also popular , ° : It Read and Use Michigan Daily Classifieds 1 Subscribe to The Michigan Daily "It Happens Every Fall". Once again Collins Shop is filled with the newest and smartest Campus Fashions for Fall and Winter! r,. {t'L ""+M : +;:.r:'i5. .. . i.: " - _ _ _ _ __5._r,", 4 The In dispensable C OAT lrr~ IN FINE COMBED COTTON-a / Iy WITH PAID LIIG. 179 S. p..4".*..&... WITH PAISLEY LINING . 19.95 (!. _WITH ZIP-IN QUILTED LINING $22.95. gtBEIGE or LODEN GREEN "' .............................. 7 to and to 1 y.' I MAIN FLOOR SUITS... Important in exciting new fashions and styles. COATS...Wonderful wools - tailored or dressy. . . for Sportswear .poplin or corduroy- orion-timmie lined. DRESSES . . . Oustanding for their new design and materials. Class, date and formal wear. ACCESSORIES.. . The loveliest way to complete your costume. LINGERIE . . . A large and beautiful selection . .. for you. SPORTS SHOP Lower Level * SWEATERS eSKIRTS * SLACKS * BLAZERS e BELTS e KILTIES * BLOUSES *CAR COATS o BERMUDAS e DRESSES ... For casual or date wear from $10.98 to$29.98