THE MICHIGAN DAILY
Men's Fashions To Take Turn-
In at Waist, Shoulders, Ankles
* ~n m W~aWRE M M
Spring fashion trends for men
will take a turn for the worse -
or best - depending on the style-
conscious male's weight.
The new look, labeled the "Con-
tinental," calls for tapering pants,
w at least two inches of shirt linen
above the wrist, waistlines close
and shoulders narrow.
The Continental look came to
light at the recent Esquire Fash-
ion. Show in Chicago, opening the
iational convention of the Asso-
ciation of Retail Clothiers and
One fashion expert commented
the well dressed male will look as
if he had "simply outgrown his old,
suits." Another called the Con-
tinental look, ". . . the most signi-
ficant change in men's wear for'
Italian fashion designers are
behind the revolutionary trend.
Extra. bulk is almnost eliminated
and the suit is cut to make the
man look "leafier, taller and more
,Trouser cuffs will be completely
eliminated adding to the slim pic-
ture of the perfectly dressed male.
~'But cuffs :will appear on tfie
sleeves of suit. jackets in most
Wider Shoulders Seen
Jackets will be shorter with cut-
, away fronts that automatically
promote a wider look to the shoul-
ders. Semi-peaked lapels, short
Y side vents and high two-buttoned
effects will distinguish the Contin-
Ivy League students will prob-
ably frown on the two button
jacket. This will be a sudden re-
versal from the trend for more
and more buttons. But designers
say the Continental is fashioned
for the "mature figure."
Color-wise, two divisions allow
the male to make at least a choice.
Irridescent blacks, blues and
grays for business will be available.
" for the trend-conscious male. Bur-
nished- browns will also make an
appearance on the clothiers' racks.
For sportswear, the bold look of
last year will be continued. Glen
plaids are bigger, the hounds-
CONTINENTAL LOOK-The "new" look in men's suits has a
shorter jacket with a cutaway front, semi-peaked lapels, short
side vents and a high two-buttoned effect.
tooth sharper, the designers have
Milder tones of gold violet and
olive green will also be available
for the newly-introduced Contin-
ental man. Muted checks and
slightly restrained plaids are also
on the spring list.
Traditional formal wear is
threatened in the new Continental
scheme. For the daring type, a
tux in black and brown jacquard
pattern with black satin facing on
collar, cuffs and pockets - or, an
Edwardian opera coat with bright
red lining in the body and elbow
length cape collar.
But the hesitant dresser can re-
lax as there are the silk mohairs
in black, navy or gunmetal and
dinner jackets in brocade or lurex
Shoes will also take on the lean
look with buckles added to round
out the Continental man's foot-
Wider spread collars will char-
acterize the shirt with hats small
brimmed and short crovmed-top-
ping off the new trend.
Spring shoes, the casual variety,
will take two forms this year, the
black and white saddle oxford
and the tan buck oxford.
The black and white saddle!
shoes have almost disappeared
from campus wear in the last two
years, but it is expected to again
become "the shoe" for lighter
spring outfits. This shoe has the
advantage of being half white,
allowing an early entrance for
this traditional summer color. '
A variation of the saddle theme
can be obtained with the brown
and tan leather saddle shoe. Buck
shoes have list most of their pop-
ular appeal for spring wear.
The plain tan buck oxford will
retain the popularity it has gained
in the past years again this
spring, and it will be shown in
new low-cut, light shade models.
The shoe has the advantage of
being light enough for summer
sun wear, yet retains a heavier
look necessary for spring.
Men's dress shoes will be shown
in a new color, a dark, dark brown
which will blend well with either
black or brown dress. This multi-
purpose color shoe will be most
popular in the plain toe models,
with wing-tips a second choice
for more formal wear.
Tennis shoes still maintain
their informal wear popularity;
though those purchased last fall
should be well on their way to
decay and a new pair in the color
of spring is in order. The tennis
shoe combines white color, which
complements any outfit, with the
rugged look of informality so es-
sential to proper class decorum.
Nothing new in spring shoes
can be expected to take the cam-
pus fancy this year.
Shirts To Gain Pleats,
Lose French Cuffs;
Jacket Innovations Set
Besides watching a campus tra-
dition slowly die, the "ghosts of
J-Hop past" have seen style con-
scious males wrestle with the
latest fads in formal attire.
Adjustment of the dinner jacket
has been the latest change to
sweep the "smart set.' Jackets will
now be buttoned higher to create
a longer line with slimmer lapels
and a higher notch adding to the
new trim appearance.
The only drawback to this in-
novation is to virtually eliminate
the hip flask and shoulder holster
from the list of conventional ac-
Placed under Monsieur's jacket,
according to the fashion lumi-
naries of New York, London and
Paris, are the newest in pleated
shirts. More rugged individuals
may insist on broadcloth pleats,
but Barcel of Paris maintains that
lace sets off the true stylist.
Amid the frills, the hapless male
will find one sore spot eliminated,
however. No longer will he be
forced to struggle with French
cuffs starched to the point of
paralysis. Yet, more efficient and
pliable cuffs will now be featured
with the latest men's dress shirts.
Finishing touches to the en-
semble (upper body of course) are
the traditional tie and cummer-
bund. Style dictates that certain
colors or schemes be matched to
accent the tone of the dinner
jacket. The pure white summer
covering will be set off best by
accessories of tartan plaid.
, More somber touches of mid-
night blue demand tie and waist
cinch of the same shade. For the
garish evening dressers, the jackets
of "robin's egg blue," "fire engine
red," "shocking pink," and "canary
yellow" should >be complimented
by accessories of pure white.
But again the experts warn that
only white and perhaps the robin's
egg blue are suitable for true
formal occasions - opening night
and Lydia Mendelssohn, home
basketball games and dining in
the Union cafeteria.
It has been pointed out by
clothing designers that the light-
weight wool tropical worsted white
dinner jacket is best for any con-
tinual summer wear. Wool's ability
to hold a crease will prove very
valuable for the warm weather
One other loophole that the
moguls of dress offer during the
days of heat is the opportunity for
males to don bermuda shorts. Of
course these cutaways must be all-
wool and midnight blue.
Bringing up the bottom of this
airy type outfit, the fashion com-
mentators allude to the use of
long (almost knee length) socks
with hidden garters to hold the
To finish off any decent en-
semble, a pair of shoes is neces-
sary both to satisfy the dictates
of style and preserve the dresser's
feet. Square-toed shoes seem to be
the vogue right now with black as
the type to be worn for all formal
Khaki-Colored Trench Coats To Continue
As Fashion Leaders inSpring Rainwear
Send your old raincoat to the
cleaners. raglan sleeve model closely as re- Perhaps the ultimate step in
Very little change is expected in gards material and price. disregarding of c o n v e n t i o n a 1
the style of the now-traditional But for the most part, raincoat mores is the plastic raincoat. Hot
khaki-colored trench coats. No style will stay the same. A raglan
major changes will be forthcom- sleeved, slash pocketed plaid-lined and ugly, it has only one advan-
ing in the style of raincoats sold poplin raincoat is the standby in tage - it keeps the rain out. Few
in Ann Arbor, although "back local clothing stores this year. however, have made this choice
East" the new fad is expected to be One clothing store owner estimat- with full knowledge of what they
the three-quarter length raincoats. ed that 95 per cent of the rain- are doing.
New for this year will be a Icoats he sold last year were of
"wash and wear" cotton poplin this type. He expects little or no
raincoat, which will have the same change this year. I..-
finish and plaid lining as other Cost ranges from under $20 for
raincoats, but which won't have the cheapest domestic raincoat
to be sent to the cleaners. to $50 and over for the most ex-
'Same as Last Year' pensive imported models.
Otherwise, this year's raincoat The male desiring to be differ-
should be the same as last. ent has several alternatives, de-
Iridescent dark-tones should pending on how different he
keep the small percentage of the wants to be. An iridescent rain-
market they gained last year. Usu- coat or a trench coat will do if
aly slightly more expensive, the he just wants to be a little differ-
iridescent models, available in ent.
dark browns, blues and grays, can Reversibles Popular
often *provide that distinctive A reversible raincoat, iridescent
touch. Not too popular, but defi- on one side and conventional on
nitely worth consideration, is an the other will do if he again wants
iridescent raincoat in a light green to be just a little different, but t
shade. only part of the time. Big steps
Also due for its normal small can be taken however, by pur-
share of the raincoat market is chasing an army surplus raincoat,
the traditional trench coat, which, which adds a stolid sort of glamor
except for styling, resembles the to a male's unconventionality.
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