THE MICHIGAN DAILY NIINENIAL 5SYLE: Men's Fashions To Take Turn- In at Waist, Shoulders, Ankles * ~n m W~aWRE M M 'Smart Set' Changes Due I n Formals Spring fashion trends for men will take a turn for the worse - or best - depending on the style- conscious male's weight. The new look, labeled the "Con- tinental," calls for tapering pants, w at least two inches of shirt linen above the wrist, waistlines close and shoulders narrow. The Continental look came to light at the recent Esquire Fash- ion. Show in Chicago, opening the iational convention of the Asso- ciation of Retail Clothiers and Furnishers there. Suits Outgrown One fashion expert commented the well dressed male will look as if he had "simply outgrown his old, suits." Another called the Con- tinental look, ". . . the most signi- ficant change in men's wear for' years." Italian fashion designers are behind the revolutionary trend. Extra. bulk is almnost eliminated and the suit is cut to make the man look "leafier, taller and more dashing." ,Trouser cuffs will be completely eliminated adding to the slim pic- ture of the perfectly dressed male. ~'But cuffs :will appear on tfie sleeves of suit. jackets in most cases. Wider Shoulders Seen Jackets will be shorter with cut- , away fronts that automatically promote a wider look to the shoul- ders. Semi-peaked lapels, short Y side vents and high two-buttoned effects will distinguish the Contin- ental man. Ivy League students will prob- ably frown on the two button jacket. This will be a sudden re- versal from the trend for more and more buttons. But designers say the Continental is fashioned for the "mature figure." Color-wise, two divisions allow the male to make at least a choice. Browns Appear Irridescent blacks, blues and grays for business will be available. " for the trend-conscious male. Bur- nished- browns will also make an appearance on the clothiers' racks. For sportswear, the bold look of last year will be continued. Glen plaids are bigger, the hounds- -Daily-Allan winder CONTINENTAL LOOK-The "new" look in men's suits has a shorter jacket with a cutaway front, semi-peaked lapels, short side vents and a high two-buttoned effect. tooth sharper, the designers have said. Milder tones of gold violet and olive green will also be available for the newly-introduced Contin- ental man. Muted checks and slightly restrained plaids are also on the spring list. Tux Changes Traditional formal wear is threatened in the new Continental scheme. For the daring type, a tux in black and brown jacquard pattern with black satin facing on collar, cuffs and pockets - or, an Edwardian opera coat with bright red lining in the body and elbow length cape collar. t1 But the hesitant dresser can re- lax as there are the silk mohairs in black, navy or gunmetal and dinner jackets in brocade or lurex fabrics. Shoes will also take on the lean look with buckles added to round out the Continental man's foot- wear. Wider spread collars will char- acterize the shirt with hats small brimmed and short crovmed-top- ping off the new trend. Shoe Styles Stay Same This Season Spring shoes, the casual variety, will take two forms this year, the black and white saddle oxford and the tan buck oxford. The black and white saddle! shoes have almost disappeared from campus wear in the last two years, but it is expected to again become "the shoe" for lighter spring outfits. This shoe has the advantage of being half white, allowing an early entrance for this traditional summer color. ' Saddles Vary A variation of the saddle theme can be obtained with the brown and tan leather saddle shoe. Buck shoes have list most of their pop- ular appeal for spring wear. The plain tan buck oxford will retain the popularity it has gained in the past years again this spring, and it will be shown in new low-cut, light shade models. The shoe has the advantage of being light enough for summer sun wear, yet retains a heavier look necessary for spring. Men's dress shoes will be shown in a new color, a dark, dark brown which will blend well with either black or brown dress. This multi- purpose color shoe will be most popular in the plain toe models, with wing-tips a second choice for more formal wear. Tennis Shoes Tennis shoes still maintain their informal wear popularity; though those purchased last fall should be well on their way to decay and a new pair in the color of spring is in order. The tennis shoe combines white color, which complements any outfit, with the rugged look of informality so es- sential to proper class decorum. Nothing new in spring shoes can be expected to take the cam- pus fancy this year. Shirts To Gain Pleats, Lose French Cuffs; Jacket Innovations Set Besides watching a campus tra- dition slowly die, the "ghosts of J-Hop past" have seen style con- scious males wrestle with the latest fads in formal attire. Adjustment of the dinner jacket has been the latest change to sweep the "smart set.' Jackets will now be buttoned higher to create a longer line with slimmer lapels and a higher notch adding to the new trim appearance. The only drawback to this in- novation is to virtually eliminate the hip flask and shoulder holster from the list of conventional ac- cessories. Pleats Shown Placed under Monsieur's jacket, according to the fashion lumi- naries of New York, London and Paris, are the newest in pleated shirts. More rugged individuals may insist on broadcloth pleats, but Barcel of Paris maintains that lace sets off the true stylist. Amid the frills, the hapless male will find one sore spot eliminated, however. No longer will he be forced to struggle with French cuffs starched to the point of paralysis. Yet, more efficient and pliable cuffs will now be featured with the latest men's dress shirts. Finishing touches to the en- semble (upper body of course) are the traditional tie and cummer- bund. Style dictates that certain colors or schemes be matched to accent the tone of the dinner jacket. The pure white summer covering will be set off best by accessories of tartan plaid. .Colors Shine , More somber touches of mid- night blue demand tie and waist cinch of the same shade. For the garish evening dressers, the jackets of "robin's egg blue," "fire engine red," "shocking pink," and "canary yellow" should >be complimented by accessories of pure white. But again the experts warn that only white and perhaps the robin's egg blue are suitable for true formal occasions - opening night and Lydia Mendelssohn, home basketball games and dining in the Union cafeteria. Wool Best It has been pointed out by clothing designers that the light- weight wool tropical worsted white dinner jacket is best for any con- tinual summer wear. Wool's ability to hold a crease will prove very valuable for the warm weather traveler. One other loophole that the moguls of dress offer during the days of heat is the opportunity for males to don bermuda shorts. Of course these cutaways must be all- wool and midnight blue. Bringing up the bottom of this airy type outfit, the fashion com- mentators allude to the use of long (almost knee length) socks with hidden garters to hold the mass up. To finish off any decent en- semble, a pair of shoes is neces- sary both to satisfy the dictates of style and preserve the dresser's feet. Square-toed shoes seem to be the vogue right now with black as the type to be worn for all formal occasions. Khaki-Colored Trench Coats To Continue As Fashion Leaders inSpring Rainwear Send your old raincoat to the cleaners. raglan sleeve model closely as re- Perhaps the ultimate step in Very little change is expected in gards material and price. disregarding of c o n v e n t i o n a 1 the style of the now-traditional But for the most part, raincoat mores is the plastic raincoat. Hot khaki-colored trench coats. No style will stay the same. A raglan major changes will be forthcom- sleeved, slash pocketed plaid-lined and ugly, it has only one advan- ing in the style of raincoats sold poplin raincoat is the standby in tage - it keeps the rain out. Few in Ann Arbor, although "back local clothing stores this year. however, have made this choice East" the new fad is expected to be One clothing store owner estimat- with full knowledge of what they the three-quarter length raincoats. ed that 95 per cent of the rain- are doing. New for this year will be a Icoats he sold last year were of "wash and wear" cotton poplin this type. He expects little or no raincoat, which will have the same change this year. I..- finish and plaid lining as other Cost ranges from under $20 for raincoats, but which won't have the cheapest domestic raincoat to be sent to the cleaners. to $50 and over for the most ex- 'Same as Last Year' pensive imported models. Otherwise, this year's raincoat The male desiring to be differ- should be the same as last. ent has several alternatives, de- Iridescent dark-tones should pending on how different he keep the small percentage of the wants to be. An iridescent rain- market they gained last year. Usu- coat or a trench coat will do if aly slightly more expensive, the he just wants to be a little differ- iridescent models, available in ent. dark browns, blues and grays, can Reversibles Popular often *provide that distinctive A reversible raincoat, iridescent touch. Not too popular, but defi- on one side and conventional on nitely worth consideration, is an the other will do if he again wants iridescent raincoat in a light green to be just a little different, but t shade. only part of the time. Big steps Also due for its normal small can be taken however, by pur- share of the raincoat market is chasing an army surplus raincoat, the traditional trench coat, which, which adds a stolid sort of glamor except for styling, resembles the to a male's unconventionality. PICTURE FRAMES Complete stock of all sizes and styles - finished and unfinished . . $1.00 and up ART SUPPLIES of all kinds WAH R'S, University Bookstore 316 S. State St. NO 2-5669 D IRTY (Laundry of course) W1hy not try cleaning the SMART way? i-l Same-Day Drop-Off Service y' Self-Service Laundry zo 48-Hour Shirt Service k Same-Day Dry Cleaning Westinghouse Laundromat 510 East Williams For busy people, we are open 1372 hours I 7:30 A. M.--9 P.M. Redwood & Ross' exclusive ra.incoat of fine combed long staple cotton, smart plaid lining, raglan sleeve, slash- through pockets . . . our own special quality . . $2250 SNAP-OPEN UMBRELLA . . e $3.95 1208 SOUTH UNIvERSITY BE IN STEP WITH ANN ARBOR CLOTHING is Now Showing a Complete Line of RICHMAN BROS. x4 94 A New T s Mf. to an Old Yar Gabardine, the old yarn . . . Dacron, the new twist. Put the two together and you have one of the most remarkable suiting fabrics yet conceived. Light in weight .. .8 oz., durable, and handsome with that silky smooth-. ness found in only the finest. Available in our famous three-button center vent suit, softly tailored with distinctive overlap seams. Featuring good looking shades of olive, natural, and tobacco. $8500 .4 Suits . 0 0 . . . $39.95 & $44.95 . . $24.95 & $29.95 Sport Coats .: . ::: 1 I I