MAY 18 • 2023 | 101
to crops from the beginning of agriculture.
According to Mayzlish-Gati, the seeds are
kept in optimal conditions and temperatures,
and are available either for immediate use or
for decades from now.
The Land of Wheat project focuses on
strains that possess commercial and culi-
nary potential, reports the Israeli newspaper
Haaretz. The project staff partners with small
artisanal bakeries, flour mills and chefs. They
help to add culinary insight about the breads
being made from local heritage wheats, and
work to improve their flavor and nutritional
values.
TASTING HERITAGE STRAINS
In 2021, two tastings were held at the Ad
Halom flour mill outside of Ashdod, Israel,
featuring breads made from heritage strains,
the first official tasting of ancient wheat.
There were many rounds of tastings and
calculations before researchers would reveal
the names of the varietals. The three strains
they used include Diar Alla, Lubani Kisra
and Palestinsaika. Palestinsaika is one of the
strains recovered by the celebrated Russian
botanist Nikolai Vavilov, who died in 1943.
A story about revitalizing ancient wheat
strains in the Jerusalem Post explains that the
interest in recovering these grains is not just
from local Israelis, but also from European
market vendors. Since the EU’s ban on
growing or using genetically modified crops,
Europeans have been searching for organic
alternatives to modern wheat farming. The
Post story features French researchers and
bakers together with Israeli and Palestinian
organic farmers, working on producing a
weather- and climate-resistant wheat.
An interesting component of the report
is Europe’s desire to grow the wheat in its
indigenous environment, then import it. It
seems like an energy-intensive option, but
they believe the wheat will yield the best
results in its native climate. This decision is
important because it offers agricultural secu-
rity to small Israeli farmers. They can grow
niche crops at better prices and produce
higher quality grains. Their successes are
giving them a competitive edge in European
markets and other countries.
The opportunity to grow ancient wheat
grains again is restoring wheat to a moment
in time where it was the cultural, agricultural
and economic heart of the Israeli commu-
nity. This celebration of grain seems almost
novel in the U.S. where so many people
are in pursuit of gluten-free foods. But the
heightened interest revitalizes the concept of
delivering bread at the end of the first har-
vest full circle, especially now that we have
the original strains.
As a culinarian, it’s amazing to think that
someday the flour we buy to make bread
might be coming from the same lineage and
location that our forefathers were farming.
Israeli scientists are returning the ceremonial
wheat harvest to the center of Jewish life,
while creating a pathway for commerce and
prosperity to Israeli farmers once again.
WHEAT BERRY SALAD
Adapted from Chef Ellie Kreiger
Ingredients
1½ cups hard wheat berries
¾ cup toasted walnuts, chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
½ cup dried cherries
1 scallion white and green parts, sliced thin
½ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped
3 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
Directions
In a large stock pot, combine the wheat
berries, 1 teaspoon of salt and enough
water to cover 2 inches over the berries.
Bring to a boil and cook for 30 seconds.
Reduce to a simmer and cook uncov-
ered until tender, between 30 and 45
minutes. Drain and let cool.
In a large bowl, combine the wheat
berries, walnuts celery, cherries, scallion,
parsley, olive oil and lemon juice. Stir to
integrate and season to taste with salt
and pepper.
Serves 4 to 6.
HONEY WHOLE WHEAT ROLLS
Sourced from Taste of Home
Ingredients
4 to 5 cups bread flour
¼ cup sugar
2 packages (¼ ounce each) active dry yeast
1 tsp. salt
1 cup 2% milk
1 cup butter, cubed
½ cup water
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 cups whole wheat flour
HONEY BUTTER:
1 cup butter, softened
7 Tbsp. honey
HONEY GLAZE:
2 Tbsp. honey
1 Tbsp. butter, melted
Directions
In a large bowl, combine 2 cups bread
flour, sugar, yeast and salt. In a small
saucepan, heat the milk, butter and
water to 120 to 130 degrees. Add to dry
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