MAY 18 • 2023 | 101 to crops from the beginning of agriculture. According to Mayzlish-Gati, the seeds are kept in optimal conditions and temperatures, and are available either for immediate use or for decades from now. The Land of Wheat project focuses on strains that possess commercial and culi- nary potential, reports the Israeli newspaper Haaretz. The project staff partners with small artisanal bakeries, flour mills and chefs. They help to add culinary insight about the breads being made from local heritage wheats, and work to improve their flavor and nutritional values. TASTING HERITAGE STRAINS In 2021, two tastings were held at the Ad Halom flour mill outside of Ashdod, Israel, featuring breads made from heritage strains, the first official tasting of ancient wheat. There were many rounds of tastings and calculations before researchers would reveal the names of the varietals. The three strains they used include Diar Alla, Lubani Kisra and Palestinsaika. Palestinsaika is one of the strains recovered by the celebrated Russian botanist Nikolai Vavilov, who died in 1943. A story about revitalizing ancient wheat strains in the Jerusalem Post explains that the interest in recovering these grains is not just from local Israelis, but also from European market vendors. Since the EU’s ban on growing or using genetically modified crops, Europeans have been searching for organic alternatives to modern wheat farming. The Post story features French researchers and bakers together with Israeli and Palestinian organic farmers, working on producing a weather- and climate-resistant wheat. An interesting component of the report is Europe’s desire to grow the wheat in its indigenous environment, then import it. It seems like an energy-intensive option, but they believe the wheat will yield the best results in its native climate. This decision is important because it offers agricultural secu- rity to small Israeli farmers. They can grow niche crops at better prices and produce higher quality grains. Their successes are giving them a competitive edge in European markets and other countries. The opportunity to grow ancient wheat grains again is restoring wheat to a moment in time where it was the cultural, agricultural and economic heart of the Israeli commu- nity. This celebration of grain seems almost novel in the U.S. where so many people are in pursuit of gluten-free foods. But the heightened interest revitalizes the concept of delivering bread at the end of the first har- vest full circle, especially now that we have the original strains. As a culinarian, it’s amazing to think that someday the flour we buy to make bread might be coming from the same lineage and location that our forefathers were farming. Israeli scientists are returning the ceremonial wheat harvest to the center of Jewish life, while creating a pathway for commerce and prosperity to Israeli farmers once again. WHEAT BERRY SALAD Adapted from Chef Ellie Kreiger Ingredients 1½ cups hard wheat berries ¾ cup toasted walnuts, chopped 2 stalks celery, finely chopped ½ cup dried cherries 1 scallion white and green parts, sliced thin ½ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped 3 Tbsp. olive oil 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt Freshly ground pepper Directions In a large stock pot, combine the wheat berries, 1 teaspoon of salt and enough water to cover 2 inches over the berries. Bring to a boil and cook for 30 seconds. Reduce to a simmer and cook uncov- ered until tender, between 30 and 45 minutes. Drain and let cool. In a large bowl, combine the wheat berries, walnuts celery, cherries, scallion, parsley, olive oil and lemon juice. Stir to integrate and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serves 4 to 6. HONEY WHOLE WHEAT ROLLS Sourced from Taste of Home Ingredients 4 to 5 cups bread flour ¼ cup sugar 2 packages (¼ ounce each) active dry yeast 1 tsp. salt 1 cup 2% milk 1 cup butter, cubed ½ cup water 2 large eggs, room temperature 2 cups whole wheat flour HONEY BUTTER: 1 cup butter, softened 7 Tbsp. honey HONEY GLAZE: 2 Tbsp. honey 1 Tbsp. butter, melted Directions In a large bowl, combine 2 cups bread flour, sugar, yeast and salt. In a small saucepan, heat the milk, butter and water to 120 to 130 degrees. Add to dry continued on page 102