56 | FEBRUARY 23 • 2023
remained the epicenter of the
Jewish deli, eventually delis
opened in Queens, Brooklyn,
the Bronx and suburbs and
cities throughout the United
States, including Los Angeles,
Chicago and Detroit.
Now, according to the New
York Historical Society, there’s
just as few dozen delis left in
Manhattan. The famous Stage
Deli, Carnegie Deli, Reuben’s
and Lindy’s have all closed.
Katz’s, Second Avenue Deli
and Russ and Daughters are
some of the few New York City
delicatessens that remain. They
are all acknowledged in the
exhibit.
Because most of the immi-
grants who settled in New York
spoke Yiddish, there’s a poster
on display titled “Yiddishisms.”
The sampling of over 25 words
includes the meanings of
shpiel, verklempt, tsuris, shay-
na punim and kvell.
As explained on a sign at the
beginning of the exhibition,
the Jewish delicatessen story
is as much about immigration
as it is about food. More than
2 million Jewish immigrants
ascended into the United States
between 1880 and 1924, bring-
ing their regional dishes with
them. The sign reads: “Foods
such as pickles, knishes, gefitle
fish, borscht, pastrami, smoked
fish, bagels, babka and rugelach
began to be served under one
roof for the first time … over
time, these foods became the
hallmarks of the Jewish deli in
the United States.”
The New York Historical Society, 170
Central Park West, at 77th Street. (212)
873-3400. www.nyhistory.org. Tickets
can be purchased online. Advanced
timed tickets are encouraged.
ALICE BURDICK SCHWEIGER
A miniature Katz’s
Delicatessen at the exhibit
A panel at the exhibit explains
how immigration led to the rise
of Jewish delis.
ALICE BURDICK SCHWEIGER
continued from page 55
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