F

or Passover, I prefer the gastro-
nomic “middle ground” which
means you make your usual
entrees — simple and delicious — and
elaborate on the side dishes.
But in truth, foods do not have to be
“traditional” to any holiday for inclu-
sion. Salad for example,
is an American addition
that has nothing to do
with, well, anything. Still,
we like to serve greens
in one form or another.
They make us feel light-
er and healthier. And
there’s no reason it can’t
be included as part of the
main meal, along with a vegetable or
served as a bed for gefilte fish.
Some foods are almost always
reserved for the week of Pesach and
special holidays. Matzah brie is one that
quickly comes to mind. While some of
us may eat matzah from time to time

during the year (even buying it when
it’s not “the season”), most people just
don’t think of it as a year-round food.
For that reason, we tend not to prepare
matzah brie many other times of the
year.
The most adventurous will risk it all
by serving new foods at the first seder.
Most American-style Jewish foods
are Ashkenazi, or of Eastern European
origin. Sephardim, the other major
classification of Jews, have their roots
in Southern Europe and the Middle
East. Most Israeli Jews, no matter where
they came from, enjoy mostly Sephardic
foods, with Middle Eastern influences.
Why, then, do Americans choose to
prepare the more Ashkenazi-inspired
holiday foods? Perhaps because serv-
ing Israeli or Sephardic foods during
Passover just doesn’t feel right or special
to some who wait all year for gefilte fish
and matzah brie.
The greatest Passover food disparity has

to do with kitniyot (legumes or grains).
While Ashkenazim permit no kitniyot,
other than those used in matzah during
Passover, many Sephardim allow the
use of fresh legumes and rice. The main
reasoning is that “in the past” for Jews
living in the countries of the Sephardic
diaspora, legumes and rice were the major
sources of nourishment.
The following recipes are Sephardic in
origin, using the flavors and ingredients
inherent to the Sephardic diaspora, but
contain no kitniyot for our American
sensibilities. Try adding a few of these
recipes for your seders or during the week
of Passover.

GOOD BASIC BEEF BRISKET
Some people trim the fat from the
brisket before they cook it, others do
so afterwards. It’s a matter of prefer-
ence but trimming first is easier and
makes for a leaner sauce, right off
the bat.

These dishes will add Sephardic flare to your seder table.

38 | MARCH 31 • 2022

Annabel
Cohen
Contributing writer

FOOD

Celebrate with Sides

Basic Beef Brisket