F

or Passover, I prefer the gastro-
nomic “middle ground” which 
means you make your usual 
entrees — simple and delicious — and 
elaborate on the side dishes. 
But in truth, foods do not have to be 
“traditional” to any holiday for inclu-
sion. Salad for example, 
is an American addition 
that has nothing to do 
with, well, anything. Still, 
we like to serve greens 
in one form or another. 
They make us feel light-
er and healthier. And 
there’s no reason it can’t 
be included as part of the 
main meal, along with a vegetable or 
served as a bed for gefilte fish.
Some foods are almost always 
reserved for the week of Pesach and 
special holidays. Matzah brie is one that 
quickly comes to mind. While some of 
us may eat matzah from time to time 

during the year (even buying it when 
it’s not “the season”), most people just 
don’t think of it as a year-round food. 
For that reason, we tend not to prepare 
matzah brie many other times of the 
year. 
The most adventurous will risk it all 
by serving new foods at the first seder. 
Most American-style Jewish foods 
are Ashkenazi, or of Eastern European 
origin. Sephardim, the other major 
classification of Jews, have their roots 
in Southern Europe and the Middle 
East. Most Israeli Jews, no matter where 
they came from, enjoy mostly Sephardic 
foods, with Middle Eastern influences. 
Why, then, do Americans choose to 
prepare the more Ashkenazi-inspired 
holiday foods? Perhaps because serv-
ing Israeli or Sephardic foods during 
Passover just doesn’t feel right or special 
to some who wait all year for gefilte fish 
and matzah brie. 
The greatest Passover food disparity has 

to do with kitniyot (legumes or grains). 
While Ashkenazim permit no kitniyot, 
other than those used in matzah during 
Passover, many Sephardim allow the 
use of fresh legumes and rice. The main 
reasoning is that “in the past” for Jews 
living in the countries of the Sephardic 
diaspora, legumes and rice were the major 
sources of nourishment. 
The following recipes are Sephardic in 
origin, using the flavors and ingredients 
inherent to the Sephardic diaspora, but 
contain no kitniyot for our American 
sensibilities. Try adding a few of these 
recipes for your seders or during the week 
of Passover.

GOOD BASIC BEEF BRISKET
Some people trim the fat from the 
brisket before they cook it, others do 
so afterwards. It’s a matter of prefer-
ence but trimming first is easier and 
makes for a leaner sauce, right off 
the bat.

These dishes will add Sephardic flare to your seder table.

38 | MARCH 31 • 2022 

Annabel 
Cohen
Contributing writer

FOOD

Celebrate with Sides

Basic Beef Brisket