at all's fare

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ammarinese
Specialties

Savor the flavors of San Marino at

Tre Monti in Trov.

BY JUDY GALENS PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGIE BAAN

Tre Monti Ristorante

1695 E. Big Beaver Road, Troy
(248) 680-1100; tremontitroy.com

Appetizers, soups and salads: $4-$13
Pizzas and pastas: $9-$19
Entrees: $13-$39

t3 ti

JUNE 2008 •

platinum

San :•arino is .c sr i Icsr republic in the world and claims to be
the oldest existing state in Europe. Tre Monti Ristorante, which
opened in March ts part of the new San Marino Cultural Center
located behind the San _A larino Club in Troy, boasts the distinction
of being- the only restaurant in the United States that specializes in
Sammarinese cuisine. A fitting home, as the Detroit area has one
of the largest populations of Sammarinese outside of San Marino.
Located entirely within the borders of Italy; near the Adriatic Sea,
San 'Marino is on the slopes of the three-peaked Mont Titano,
which lends Tie Monti its name. The cuisine of San Marino is simi-
lar to that of Italy, with some differences: The dishes at Tre Monti
rend to be lighter—no cream sauces or heavy blankets of melted
cheese on this menu—and seafood specialties are highlighted.
In an opulent atmosphere accented by dark wood paneling,
gold leaf and wine-colored velvet, guests can select from a variety
of brick-oven pizzas, pastas, seafood and beef dishes. Much of the
menu comes from the handed-down recipes of San Marino native
Maddalena Sarti, known as Norma Lena, who makes the pasta
and sauces fresh each day; she adds a hint of nutmeg and lemon to
her pasta, giving it a subtle, distinctive flavor. A favorite among the
pasta selections is Cannelloni con Came, a flavorful and surprisingly
light dish of beef- and veal-filled pasta topped with a tomato-basil
sauce. The pizzas, served piping hot with a thin, crispy crust, come
in seven varieties, from Fiorentina (featuring spinach, mushrooms
and garlic) to Rustica (with sausage, sweet bell peppers and red
onion). The main dishes, accompanied by a lovely green salad and a
wonderful dish of pasta, include beef, lamb chops and chicken. Or
try- the beloved Osso Buco (stewed veal shanks) and sauteed veal
layered with prosciutto and mozzarella and topped with Marsala
sauce. The menu at Tre Monti offers an array of fresh seafood,
flown in daily, including trout, snapper, whitefish, salmon and the
crown jewel, Dover sole. Brodetto di Pesce, a fabulous seafood stew,
is a bonanza of fresh clams, mussels, calamari, shrimp, scallops and
more in a zesty tomato broth. Be sure to soak up the extra sauce
with the homemade crusty bread.
The creativity of chef Richard Conover — whose 30 year§ of
restaurant experience includes a stint at Knollwood Country Club
in West Bloomfield — is evidenced by delectable sweets such as a
rich chocolate Lava cake, accompanied by vanilla-bean ice cream
and Sander's hot fudge, and an apple crisp served a La mode,
topped with caramel sauce.
Reservations are recommended at Tre Monti (which is open for
lunch); or, consider dining in the handsome bar area, which includes
seating at the bar as well as several small tables. Summer months
offer patio dining under the pergola, live entertainment in the gaze-
bo and an opportunity to play bocce on the outdoor courts. If travel-
ing overseas to San Marino isn't in the cards, an evening outdoors at
Tre Monti on a warm summer night just might do the trick.