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Above: Women sell fresh produce at a street market outside of Cuzco.
Below: An Andean woman walks her llama through the streets of Cuzco.
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(finally, an opportunity to exercise my
seemingly useless Hebrew-to-Spanish
translation skills). But the name of the
hotel where the services were to be
held, Magdali, had been translated into
Hebrew from the Spanish. When I
transliterated it back into Spanish from
Hebrew (as Carly watched in awe), I
couldn't be sure of the exact pronuncia-
tion of the word — or how to ask for
directions to it.
It was erev Yom Kippur, and we
still didn't know where services were.
That morning we headed to the airport.
Our friend Lauren Gruber, formerly
of Southfield and now a high-school
English teacher in Chicago, was going
to join Carly and me for a week. The
three of us decided our best hope of
finding Hotel Magdali was to walk the
neighborhood where we suspected it
was located, looking for clues.
The streets were quiet as we searched
for a sign. Then we stopped. Right
in the middle of that desolate street
in Peru we had come face-to-face
with a billboard-sized photo of Rabbi
Menachem Mendel Schneerson, the
Lubavitcher rebbe. We had found it.
We walked into the hotel, and I told
the concierge we were looking for a
group of people. He replied in Spanish,
"Are you looking for the Jews?" A stair-
way led us to a spectacular sight: Filled
with chatting Israelis dressed in white
llama garb and waiting to pray, a par-
tially covered room gave way to a fully
open portion that looked out into the
forest beyond. About a hundred fold-
ing chairs were arranged on either side
of a divider; we took our seats on the
women's side and waited.
I was watching the room fill when
I noticed an older couple step in. The
man took a kippah, looked at the "Jabad
Cuzco Peru" inscription on it and com-
mented in an American accent, "This
is going to be totally wild." His wife,
wearing white llama socks, asked if
she could sit down next to me. They
were from Los Angeles, she explained,
visiting Peru with a tour group (she
also mentioned that she had a son in
California, who was "single but look-
ing"). When the woman pulled out her
Gates of Prayer book, just like the one
I use at home, I felt an immediate con-
nection to her.
Sitting through the service beside
my two friends — with whom I had
grown up attending services at Temple
Emanu-El in Oak Park — I thought
about how surreal it was to be in Peru,
praying in Hebrew in a crowded hotel
room. Even here, thousands of miles
away from Detroit and in a seemingly
different world, I felt at home. As I
looked out into the forest beyond us,
absorbing the sounds of prayer around
me, I reflected on the journey we had
taken to reach this place. It seemed one
very fitting for the High Holidays. ❑
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32
•
SEPTEMBER
2006 •
JNPLATINUM