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the foreign journalist and more as
though she were recounting the history
of her own country.
Soon after the 1988 coup, she went
with a friend to hear a traditional music
group perform at the National Theater,
and when she first saw the drummer, "it
was as though someone sliced a vein
from my heart into the center of his."
Several months later, she met Jean
Raymond and, ever aware of their dif-
ferences in culture, education and eco-
nomics, fell deeply in love. Their first
son was born on the same day as
another coup d'etat, in 1991, while
they were in San Francisco. Jean
Raymond felt displaced in America,
homesick for Haiti, so he returned and
she joined him later on.
Self-Discovery
Klarreich, who earned a bachelor's
degree in 1978 from the University of
Michigan, writes with honesty and
humility, aware of the privilege of her
upper middle-class background and
ability - not shared by her Haitian
friends - to leave at any point if the
dangers, frustrations, government cor-
ruption and violence were to become
too difficult to beat
She writes of adjusting to weeks with
only 10 random hours of electricity,
being mistaken for a CIA agent, losing a
dear friend to assassination and inter-
viewing political leaders. The memoir is
also the story of her self-discovery as
she pushes herself "to pare down the
clutter" of her life.
Her curiosity about all things Haitian
led her to experience the voodoo tradi-
tion. She attended a five-day traditional
ceremony and while dancing, was sur-
prised at her writhing bodily reactions,
as though spirits possessed her.
"I was not a nonbeliever, but at each
foreign juncture with the spiritual, I had
only my Jewish spiritual upbringing as a
frame of reference. This didn't fit in that
box. It didn't fit anywhere. No feelings
any rabbi evoked though any sermon I'd
ever heard came close to reaching this
kind of religious experience,' she writes.
Her husband is a practitioner of
voodoo and she is not, although she
says that learning about voodoo has
helped her to better understand the
country and its history. In their home in
Haiti, she would light Shabbat candles,
with his ritual items nearby.
She now lives mostly in Florida,
where her 14-year-old son goes to
school, and she travels frequently to
their home in Haiti, where her husband
is primarily based.
Nice Jewish Girl
In a telephone interview from Key
Biscayne as she was about to leave for
Haiti, she explained that voodoo is very
much misunderstood, promoted by
Hollywood as having to do with sticking
pins into dolls and some sort of black
magic.
She's pleased that her openness
"allowed me to just observe and take in
what it was. In this post 9-11 world, we
have to come to other people's religions
with open minds and not be judgmen-
tal!"
Klarreich, 50, grew up in the suburbs
of Cleveland, where her father served as
a city councilman, and she says that one
of the gifts her family gave her was trav-
el, exposing her to many places from a
young age.
Her Jewish upbringing prepared her
for her adventure in Haiti, and "for life
in general. My parents set the stage for
me to feel confident in making deci-
sions and gave me space to do so."
Now, when she looks at photos of her
earlier self in Haiti, she sees how much
her white skin makes her stand out, but
she always felt accepted. Most Haitians,
she says, don't know much about
Judaism, or Middle East politics. "It's a
very isolated island, with its own lan-
guage. I've often thought this to be part
of their larger political problem, that
they're so insular."
Her mother suggested that she call
the book What's a Nice Jewish Girl
Like You Doing in a Place Like This?
The book took her about a decade to
write, with several rewrites until she
found a way to tell the story, which
she does well.
She begins each chapter with a Creole
proverb - like "Love turns your head
around" and "The lamp won't light with-
out a wick" - as Haitians invoke
idiomatic sayings frequently.
"It's part of Haitians' charm; they see
the world with humor, with joie de
vivre she says. "We hear awful things
about violence and poverty, but 8 mil-
lion people get up and make do, often
under great duress, and they do it with
laughter and grace and creativity. I have
tremendous respect for the way they
have overcome so many difficulties."
For Klarreich, Haiti remains a coun-
try "full of unpredictable flaws and
wonders." Each time she arrives, she's
enchanted anew. "Haiti has taught me
that there is not only one way to look
at a situation, but infinite ways to cre-
ate a solution, with humor and devo-
tion, heart and determination as key
ingredients." I I
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