LIVE MUSIC EVERY SATURDAY NIGHT the foreign journalist and more as though she were recounting the history of her own country. Soon after the 1988 coup, she went with a friend to hear a traditional music group perform at the National Theater, and when she first saw the drummer, "it was as though someone sliced a vein from my heart into the center of his." Several months later, she met Jean Raymond and, ever aware of their dif- ferences in culture, education and eco- nomics, fell deeply in love. Their first son was born on the same day as another coup d'etat, in 1991, while they were in San Francisco. Jean Raymond felt displaced in America, homesick for Haiti, so he returned and she joined him later on. Self-Discovery Klarreich, who earned a bachelor's degree in 1978 from the University of Michigan, writes with honesty and humility, aware of the privilege of her upper middle-class background and ability - not shared by her Haitian friends - to leave at any point if the dangers, frustrations, government cor- ruption and violence were to become too difficult to beat She writes of adjusting to weeks with only 10 random hours of electricity, being mistaken for a CIA agent, losing a dear friend to assassination and inter- viewing political leaders. The memoir is also the story of her self-discovery as she pushes herself "to pare down the clutter" of her life. Her curiosity about all things Haitian led her to experience the voodoo tradi- tion. She attended a five-day traditional ceremony and while dancing, was sur- prised at her writhing bodily reactions, as though spirits possessed her. "I was not a nonbeliever, but at each foreign juncture with the spiritual, I had only my Jewish spiritual upbringing as a frame of reference. This didn't fit in that box. It didn't fit anywhere. No feelings any rabbi evoked though any sermon I'd ever heard came close to reaching this kind of religious experience,' she writes. Her husband is a practitioner of voodoo and she is not, although she says that learning about voodoo has helped her to better understand the country and its history. In their home in Haiti, she would light Shabbat candles, with his ritual items nearby. She now lives mostly in Florida, where her 14-year-old son goes to school, and she travels frequently to their home in Haiti, where her husband is primarily based. Nice Jewish Girl In a telephone interview from Key Biscayne as she was about to leave for Haiti, she explained that voodoo is very much misunderstood, promoted by Hollywood as having to do with sticking pins into dolls and some sort of black magic. She's pleased that her openness "allowed me to just observe and take in what it was. In this post 9-11 world, we have to come to other people's religions with open minds and not be judgmen- tal!" Klarreich, 50, grew up in the suburbs of Cleveland, where her father served as a city councilman, and she says that one of the gifts her family gave her was trav- el, exposing her to many places from a young age. Her Jewish upbringing prepared her for her adventure in Haiti, and "for life in general. My parents set the stage for me to feel confident in making deci- sions and gave me space to do so." Now, when she looks at photos of her earlier self in Haiti, she sees how much her white skin makes her stand out, but she always felt accepted. Most Haitians, she says, don't know much about Judaism, or Middle East politics. "It's a very isolated island, with its own lan- guage. I've often thought this to be part of their larger political problem, that they're so insular." Her mother suggested that she call the book What's a Nice Jewish Girl Like You Doing in a Place Like This? The book took her about a decade to write, with several rewrites until she found a way to tell the story, which she does well. She begins each chapter with a Creole proverb - like "Love turns your head around" and "The lamp won't light with- out a wick" - as Haitians invoke idiomatic sayings frequently. "It's part of Haitians' charm; they see the world with humor, with joie de vivre she says. "We hear awful things about violence and poverty, but 8 mil- lion people get up and make do, often under great duress, and they do it with laughter and grace and creativity. I have tremendous respect for the way they have overcome so many difficulties." For Klarreich, Haiti remains a coun- try "full of unpredictable flaws and wonders." Each time she arrives, she's enchanted anew. 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