BY KENDI O'NEILL
PHOTOGRAPHED BY VINCE LUPO
nick— name your
favorite turnip dish. And
when was the last time
you came home from
the grocery store with a
bunch of fresh parsnips? Even the
gourmets among us may come up
short on ideas when it comes to
root vegetables. I've worked as a
food professional for years, but I'll
admit that if they didn't have those
handy photos above the vegetable
cases, I'd still be walking around
the produce department looking for
the rutabagas.
If you've been ignoring this
humble, old-fashioned group of
vegetables, you've been missing a
flavorful addition to stews, soups,
purees and gratins. Along with
some recipes to help you get
acquainted, we've found some new
ways to serve familiar favorites such
as potatoes, carrots and beets.
Q
PARSNIP, CARROT &
RUTABAGA GRATIN WITH
THYME AND GORGONZOLA
This impressive side dish is rich
and decadent, made with heavy
cream and lots of Gorgonzola
cheese. Use a mandoline to slice
the vegetables to an even thick-
ness. To serve as part of a formal
dinner, cut each square into two tri-
angles and stack at opposite angles.
2 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 cup chicken stock
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, finely chopped
1 1/2 pounds rutabagas, peeled,
cut in half, and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 1/2 pounds carrots, peeled and
cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 1/2 pounds parsnips, peeled and
cut into 1/4-inch slices
salt and freshly ground black pepper
to taste
3 ounces crumbled Gorgonzola
Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
Coat a 9 x 13 x 2-inch baking dish
with cooking spray. Combine
cream, stock, garlic and thyme in a
large saucepan or Dutch oven and
bring to a boil. Add rutabagas,
cover, and simmer for about 10
minutes. Add carrots and parsnips,
stirring to combine, and simmer 5
minutes longer. Season with salt
and pepper.
Transfer mixture to prepared
baking dish. Bake uncovered for
about 35 minutes, or until vegeta-
bles are tender and liquid has
thickened. Sprinkle Gorgonzola
over top. Bake 10 minutes longer,
or until cheese has melted and top
becomes golden brown. Remove
from oven, cover with foil, and let
rest for 10 to 15 minutes before
serving to allow any excess liquid to
be absorbed. Serves 8.
SIMPLE BEET SOUP
This colorful soup couldn't be
easier to prepare. Just cook the
beets until tender, blend with stock
and seasonings, heat and serve.
Peel the beets by rubbing the skins
after they cool. (Rub between two
paper towels to prevent staining
your hands.) The soup can be
served chilled in warmer weather.
8 medium beets, tops and roots removed
5 cups chicken stock
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 small onion, chopped
salt and freshly ground black
pepper to taste
plain yogurt for garnish
Place beets in a saucepan, cover
with cold water and bring to a boil.
Cover and simmer until beets can
be easily pierced with a fork, about
40 minutes. Drain, cool to room
temperature, and peel. Place in
blender along with stock, lemon
juice and onion. Blend until
smooth. Season with salt and pep-
per. Transfer mixture to a saucepan
and bring to a simmer, stirring occa-
sionally, until heated through. Taste
to adjust seasonings. Top each serv-
ing with a generous dollop of
yogurt. Serves 6.
MARBELIZED ROOT
VEGETABLE PUREE
Topped with melted butter and a
sprinkling of nutmeg, this pretty
side dish is lightly sweetened by
the addition of an apple or pear.
I've adapted the recipe from one
that appeared in Bon Appetit sever-
al years ago.
2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and
cut into 1-inch chunks
2 medium turnips, peeled and cut
into 1-inch chunks
4 parsnips, peeled and cut into
1-inch chunks
1 large apple or pear, peeled, cored,
and cut into 1-inch chunks
1/2 cup milk (substitute heavy cream
for a richer version)
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter,
divided
salt and freshly ground black pepper
to taste
8 large carrots, peeled and cut into
1-inch chunks
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg, plus
extra for garnish
Cook potatoes, turnips, parsnips
and apple or pear in a pot of boiling
salted water until very tender,
about 20 minutes. Drain well.
Return to pot and add cream, 5
tablespoons butter, salt and pepper.
Mash or beat until smooth.
Meanwhile, cook carrots in a sec-
ond pot of boiling salted water until
tender, about 15 minutes. Drain
well.
Transfer to the bowl of a food
processor fitted with a metal blade.
Add 2 tablespoons butter, nutmeg,
salt and pepper, and puree until
smooth. Alternate large scoops of
potato and carrot purees in 9 x 13 x
2-inch serving dish. Draw a knife
through the purees to swirl togeth-
er. Melt the remaining tablespoon
butter and pour over top. Dust with
another pinch of nutmeg. Serves 8.
SMOKY MASHED POTATOES
WITH CHIPOTLE AND
ADOBO
No discussion of root vegetables
would be complete without mashed
potatoes. This version, the new
favorite at my house, is both spicy
and smoky, the perfect accompani-
ment to marinated flank steak or
tenderloin.
3 1/2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled
and cut into chunks
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter
1/2 cup milk
8 ounces cream cheese
3 canned chipotle peppers in adobo
(including seeds), chopped
1 tablespoon adobo (the liquid in
which the chipotles are packed)
2 cups shredded smoked cheddar
cheese
salt and freshly ground
black pepper to taste
Cook potatoes in a pot of boiling
salted water until very tender,
about 20 minutes. Drain well.
Return to pot and add butter, milk
and cream cheese. Mash or beat
until combined. Add chipotles and
adobo and mash or beat until
smooth. Stir in cheese. Season with
salt and pepper. Serves 8.
BRAISED SHORT RIBS
WITH ROASTED ROOT
VEGETABLES
This simple, slow-cooked dish
will fill your kitchen with wonder-
ful aromas and is perfect for an
early Sunday supper.
8 beef short ribs
salt and freshly ground black
pepper to taste
1/2 cup flour
2 cups beef or veal stock
1 cup dry red wine
3 medium turnips, peeled and cut
into 1/2-inch chunks
1 large russet potato, peeled and cut
into 1/2-inch chunks
3 carrots, peeled and cut into
1/2-inch chunks
3 parsnips, peeled and cut into
1/2-inch chunks
2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil
Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
Generously season ribs with salt
and pepper. Coat with flour, shak-
ing off excess. Heat oil in a large,
deep, ovenproof skillet until shim-
mering. Add ribs in two batches,
browning well on all sides. Remove
oil from skillet and return all ribs to
pan. Add stock and wine. Cover
and bake for about 3 hours or until
meat is very tender and falling off
the bone. Remove from oven and
leave covered.
Increase oven temperature to 425
degrees. Combine the chopped
vegetables, oil, salt and pepper in a
shallow baking pan, tossing to coat.
Bake uncovered for about 40 min-
utes, tossing occasionally, until veg-
etables are tender and golden
brown.
To serve, top a mound of roasted
root vegetables with a beef short rib
or two and some of the rich braising
liquid. Serves 6.
STYLEATTHEJN.FEBRUARY2002•1.7