BY KENDI O'NEILL PHOTOGRAPHED BY VINCE LUPO nick— name your favorite turnip dish. And when was the last time you came home from the grocery store with a bunch of fresh parsnips? Even the gourmets among us may come up short on ideas when it comes to root vegetables. I've worked as a food professional for years, but I'll admit that if they didn't have those handy photos above the vegetable cases, I'd still be walking around the produce department looking for the rutabagas. If you've been ignoring this humble, old-fashioned group of vegetables, you've been missing a flavorful addition to stews, soups, purees and gratins. Along with some recipes to help you get acquainted, we've found some new ways to serve familiar favorites such as potatoes, carrots and beets. Q PARSNIP, CARROT & RUTABAGA GRATIN WITH THYME AND GORGONZOLA This impressive side dish is rich and decadent, made with heavy cream and lots of Gorgonzola cheese. Use a mandoline to slice the vegetables to an even thick- ness. To serve as part of a formal dinner, cut each square into two tri- angles and stack at opposite angles. 2 1/2 cups heavy cream 1 cup chicken stock 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, finely chopped 1 1/2 pounds rutabagas, peeled, cut in half, and cut into 1/4-inch slices 1 1/2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch slices 1 1/2 pounds parsnips, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch slices salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 3 ounces crumbled Gorgonzola Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Coat a 9 x 13 x 2-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Combine cream, stock, garlic and thyme in a large saucepan or Dutch oven and bring to a boil. Add rutabagas, cover, and simmer for about 10 minutes. Add carrots and parsnips, stirring to combine, and simmer 5 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer mixture to prepared baking dish. Bake uncovered for about 35 minutes, or until vegeta- bles are tender and liquid has thickened. Sprinkle Gorgonzola over top. Bake 10 minutes longer, or until cheese has melted and top becomes golden brown. Remove from oven, cover with foil, and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving to allow any excess liquid to be absorbed. Serves 8. SIMPLE BEET SOUP This colorful soup couldn't be easier to prepare. Just cook the beets until tender, blend with stock and seasonings, heat and serve. Peel the beets by rubbing the skins after they cool. (Rub between two paper towels to prevent staining your hands.) The soup can be served chilled in warmer weather. 8 medium beets, tops and roots removed 5 cups chicken stock juice of 1/2 lemon 1 small onion, chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste plain yogurt for garnish Place beets in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer until beets can be easily pierced with a fork, about 40 minutes. Drain, cool to room temperature, and peel. Place in blender along with stock, lemon juice and onion. Blend until smooth. Season with salt and pep- per. Transfer mixture to a saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring occa- sionally, until heated through. Taste to adjust seasonings. Top each serv- ing with a generous dollop of yogurt. Serves 6. MARBELIZED ROOT VEGETABLE PUREE Topped with melted butter and a sprinkling of nutmeg, this pretty side dish is lightly sweetened by the addition of an apple or pear. I've adapted the recipe from one that appeared in Bon Appetit sever- al years ago. 2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 2 medium turnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 4 parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 1 large apple or pear, peeled, cored, and cut into 1-inch chunks 1/2 cup milk (substitute heavy cream for a richer version) 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, divided salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 8 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg, plus extra for garnish Cook potatoes, turnips, parsnips and apple or pear in a pot of boiling salted water until very tender, about 20 minutes. Drain well. Return to pot and add cream, 5 tablespoons butter, salt and pepper. Mash or beat until smooth. Meanwhile, cook carrots in a sec- ond pot of boiling salted water until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain well. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Add 2 tablespoons butter, nutmeg, salt and pepper, and puree until smooth. Alternate large scoops of potato and carrot purees in 9 x 13 x 2-inch serving dish. Draw a knife through the purees to swirl togeth- er. Melt the remaining tablespoon butter and pour over top. Dust with another pinch of nutmeg. Serves 8. SMOKY MASHED POTATOES WITH CHIPOTLE AND ADOBO No discussion of root vegetables would be complete without mashed potatoes. This version, the new favorite at my house, is both spicy and smoky, the perfect accompani- ment to marinated flank steak or tenderloin. 3 1/2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter 1/2 cup milk 8 ounces cream cheese 3 canned chipotle peppers in adobo (including seeds), chopped 1 tablespoon adobo (the liquid in which the chipotles are packed) 2 cups shredded smoked cheddar cheese salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Cook potatoes in a pot of boiling salted water until very tender, about 20 minutes. Drain well. Return to pot and add butter, milk and cream cheese. Mash or beat until combined. Add chipotles and adobo and mash or beat until smooth. Stir in cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 8. BRAISED SHORT RIBS WITH ROASTED ROOT VEGETABLES This simple, slow-cooked dish will fill your kitchen with wonder- ful aromas and is perfect for an early Sunday supper. 8 beef short ribs salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/2 cup flour 2 cups beef or veal stock 1 cup dry red wine 3 medium turnips, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks 1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks 3 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks 3 parsnips, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Generously season ribs with salt and pepper. Coat with flour, shak- ing off excess. Heat oil in a large, deep, ovenproof skillet until shim- mering. Add ribs in two batches, browning well on all sides. Remove oil from skillet and return all ribs to pan. Add stock and wine. Cover and bake for about 3 hours or until meat is very tender and falling off the bone. Remove from oven and leave covered. Increase oven temperature to 425 degrees. Combine the chopped vegetables, oil, salt and pepper in a shallow baking pan, tossing to coat. Bake uncovered for about 40 min- utes, tossing occasionally, until veg- etables are tender and golden brown. To serve, top a mound of roasted root vegetables with a beef short rib or two and some of the rich braising liquid. Serves 6. STYLEATTHEJN.FEBRUARY2002•1.7