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4
FIghteng Heart Dseaso
and Sfroke
YOU BEING
STALKED BY
ARE
at
WOMEN' S
No. 1
Dna; itilarc
I
am still munching on a bagel
while I write this story, but my
calendar says Passover is just
around the corner. In fact, it's
not too early to stock up on the latest
cookbooks to get a head start on plan-
ning your Passover menus. New
kosher cookbooks with extensive
Passover sections, published within the
last year, offer a delicious source of
inventiveness. May they help free you
from matzah bondage.
How many ways can you make
gefilte fish? Linda Amster's The New
York Times Passover Cookbook: More
Than 200 Holiday Recipes from Top
Chefi and Writers (Morrow; $25) fea-
OFF
American Heart
Associations
RAHEL MUSLEAH
Special to The Jewish News
KILLER?
tures 11 recipes, from pate-like gefilte
fish souffle to Wolfgang Puck's version,
fragrant with tarragon, wrapped in cab-
bage leaves and poached.
How many ways can you make
charoset? Amster, the news research
manager at the Times, includes unusual
blends from Egypt, Italy, Surinam and
Yemen, as well as restaurateur Anne
Rosenzweig's creation flavored with
rhubarb, jicama and pecans.
The array of Ashkenazic, Sephardic
and "nouvelle Passover" recipes —
from chefs as renowned as Craig
Claiborne and Alice Waters (owner of
Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif.) — are
complemented by Joan Nathan's intro-
duction to Passover observances; per-
sonal reminiscences from food writers
Ruth Reichl, Molly O'Neil and Mimi
Sheraton; and an essay on kosher
wines by Howard Goldberg.
And if the craving for bagels over-
powers you, skip over the uninspired
photographs and stop at Hanna
Goodman's puffy golden rings —
dubbed, of course, "Passover Bagels."
For those who like to straddle East
and West, rabbi and chef Gil Marks cre-
ates two separate menus for the seders
— one Ashkenazic and one Sephardic
— in The World of Jewish Entertaining:
Menus and Recipes for the Sabbath,
Holidays and Other Family Celebrations
(Simon & Schuster: $30).
Traditional chicken soup with matzah
balls, apple kugel, pate-stuffed veal
breast, lemon-glazed asparagus and nut
torte (the Ashkenazic menu) contrast
with Moroccan lamb stew with prunes,
Turkish leek patties, braised stuffed arti-
Reducing
your risk
factors for
heart disease
and stroke is
good self defense
.
3/12
1999
©1997, American Heart Association
Rahel Musleah is a New York-based
freelance journalist and the co-author,
with Rabbi Michael Klayman, of "Sharing
Blessings: Children's Stories for Exploring
the Spirit of the Jewish Holidays."
PASS
C.1.4:4,, a., NV.
‘t 1,
N
331
atzah Balls
& More
A roundup of new kosher cookbooks
with recipes for sumptuous seders.
chokes, salad of bitter herbs and wine
cookies. A separate section details
intriguing Passover desserts — from
bananas flambe to chocolate sorbet.
Marcy Goldman, a professional
baker and restaurant bakery consultant,
shares her successes in A Treasury of
Jewish Holiday Baking (Doubleday:
$25). Her trademark caramel matzah
crunch, a.k.a. matzah buttercrunch, is
an easy confection — modest, sweet
and nut-free, perfect for nibbling on
after a sumptuous dinner.
Other recipes promise to be as delec-
table as their names: espresso truffle
torte, apple cherry kuchen, decadent
fudge brownies, meringue mandelbrot,
"I Can't Believe This Is a Passover Cake"
yellow cake, and more.
In Cucina Ebraica: Flavors of the
Italian Jewish Kitchen (Chronicle;
$29.95) chef, restaurant consultant and
cookbook author Joyce Goldstein ( The
Mediterranean Kitchen; Back to Square
One) translates her passion for
Mediterranean cooking into a tribute to
the Jewish culinary traditions of Italy.
Along with a history of the commu-
nity, an overview of its customs and cui-
sine, and recipes for holidays and every
day, she delineates two seder menus.
Unfortunately, the Passover recipes are
not organized together. Charoset made
of chestnuts, walnuts, dates, prunes,
raisins, wine and orange juice is under
"Sauces'"; eggs for the seder, brown from
the onion skins in which they are sim-
mered for hours, are in the "Appetizer"
section.
Other tantalizing. Passover dishes
include roast chicken with orange,
lemon and ginger; spring vegetable
stew; potato croquettes; braised peas;
almond pudding; carrot cake; and
caramelized fresh fruit.
The Sephardic Table: The Vibrant
Cooking of the Mediterranean Jews
(Houghton Mifflin; $16) recounts
Pamela Grau Twena's odyssey from an
assimilated California Jew to the daugh-
ter-in-law of a proud Iraqi-Israeli family.
The recipes from the Middle East,
North Africa and India — those she
coaxed out of her mother-in-law,
extended family and members of the
Sephardic community — include
many that rely on vegetables and
spices to tempt the palate, and thus
can be used for Passover. Try lamb
tagine with raisins and onions; chick-
en curry stew; okra in tomato sauce;
fried leek and potato patties or Iraqi
nut cookies.
Judy Zeidler, the California-based
host of her own weekly TV show,
"Judy's Kitchen," wins the prize for
the most kosher cookbooks — three
in one season.