V•adei Deli On The Bookshelf ENJOY ROSE GUTTMAN'S HOMEMADE TRADITIONAL JEWISH SPECIALTIES ROSE'S HOMEMADE GEFILTE FISH IS HERE! NOW TAKING ORDERS FOR PASSOVER $ 10 OUR GREAT DAIRY & DELI TRAYS INCLUDING ROSE'S HOMEMADE SOUR CREAM NUT CAKE • 10 Person Minimum • With Coupon Only • Expires 3-18-99 6088 W. Maple at Farmington Rd. West Bloomfield (248) 851-9666 Fax: (248) 851-5698 4 FIghteng Heart Dseaso and Sfroke YOU BEING STALKED BY ARE at WOMEN' S No. 1 Dna; itilarc I am still munching on a bagel while I write this story, but my calendar says Passover is just around the corner. In fact, it's not too early to stock up on the latest cookbooks to get a head start on plan- ning your Passover menus. New kosher cookbooks with extensive Passover sections, published within the last year, offer a delicious source of inventiveness. May they help free you from matzah bondage. How many ways can you make gefilte fish? Linda Amster's The New York Times Passover Cookbook: More Than 200 Holiday Recipes from Top Chefi and Writers (Morrow; $25) fea- OFF American Heart Associations RAHEL MUSLEAH Special to The Jewish News KILLER? tures 11 recipes, from pate-like gefilte fish souffle to Wolfgang Puck's version, fragrant with tarragon, wrapped in cab- bage leaves and poached. How many ways can you make charoset? Amster, the news research manager at the Times, includes unusual blends from Egypt, Italy, Surinam and Yemen, as well as restaurateur Anne Rosenzweig's creation flavored with rhubarb, jicama and pecans. The array of Ashkenazic, Sephardic and "nouvelle Passover" recipes — from chefs as renowned as Craig Claiborne and Alice Waters (owner of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif.) — are complemented by Joan Nathan's intro- duction to Passover observances; per- sonal reminiscences from food writers Ruth Reichl, Molly O'Neil and Mimi Sheraton; and an essay on kosher wines by Howard Goldberg. And if the craving for bagels over- powers you, skip over the uninspired photographs and stop at Hanna Goodman's puffy golden rings — dubbed, of course, "Passover Bagels." For those who like to straddle East and West, rabbi and chef Gil Marks cre- ates two separate menus for the seders — one Ashkenazic and one Sephardic — in The World of Jewish Entertaining: Menus and Recipes for the Sabbath, Holidays and Other Family Celebrations (Simon & Schuster: $30). Traditional chicken soup with matzah balls, apple kugel, pate-stuffed veal breast, lemon-glazed asparagus and nut torte (the Ashkenazic menu) contrast with Moroccan lamb stew with prunes, Turkish leek patties, braised stuffed arti- Reducing your risk factors for heart disease and stroke is good self defense . 3/12 1999 ©1997, American Heart Association Rahel Musleah is a New York-based freelance journalist and the co-author, with Rabbi Michael Klayman, of "Sharing Blessings: Children's Stories for Exploring the Spirit of the Jewish Holidays." PASS C.1.4:4,, a., NV. ‘t 1, N 331 atzah Balls & More A roundup of new kosher cookbooks with recipes for sumptuous seders. chokes, salad of bitter herbs and wine cookies. A separate section details intriguing Passover desserts — from bananas flambe to chocolate sorbet. Marcy Goldman, a professional baker and restaurant bakery consultant, shares her successes in A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking (Doubleday: $25). Her trademark caramel matzah crunch, a.k.a. matzah buttercrunch, is an easy confection — modest, sweet and nut-free, perfect for nibbling on after a sumptuous dinner. Other recipes promise to be as delec- table as their names: espresso truffle torte, apple cherry kuchen, decadent fudge brownies, meringue mandelbrot, "I Can't Believe This Is a Passover Cake" yellow cake, and more. In Cucina Ebraica: Flavors of the Italian Jewish Kitchen (Chronicle; $29.95) chef, restaurant consultant and cookbook author Joyce Goldstein ( The Mediterranean Kitchen; Back to Square One) translates her passion for Mediterranean cooking into a tribute to the Jewish culinary traditions of Italy. Along with a history of the commu- nity, an overview of its customs and cui- sine, and recipes for holidays and every day, she delineates two seder menus. Unfortunately, the Passover recipes are not organized together. Charoset made of chestnuts, walnuts, dates, prunes, raisins, wine and orange juice is under "Sauces'"; eggs for the seder, brown from the onion skins in which they are sim- mered for hours, are in the "Appetizer" section. Other tantalizing. Passover dishes include roast chicken with orange, lemon and ginger; spring vegetable stew; potato croquettes; braised peas; almond pudding; carrot cake; and caramelized fresh fruit. The Sephardic Table: The Vibrant Cooking of the Mediterranean Jews (Houghton Mifflin; $16) recounts Pamela Grau Twena's odyssey from an assimilated California Jew to the daugh- ter-in-law of a proud Iraqi-Israeli family. The recipes from the Middle East, North Africa and India — those she coaxed out of her mother-in-law, extended family and members of the Sephardic community — include many that rely on vegetables and spices to tempt the palate, and thus can be used for Passover. Try lamb tagine with raisins and onions; chick- en curry stew; okra in tomato sauce; fried leek and potato patties or Iraqi nut cookies. Judy Zeidler, the California-based host of her own weekly TV show, "Judy's Kitchen," wins the prize for the most kosher cookbooks — three in one season.