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n 1966, when I first visited day miraculous:3T free of rancor
Jerusalem with an invited or violence.
Thirty years later, Jerusalem
party of foreign journalists, the
is
both
more united and more di-
city was still divided between
Israel and Jordan, which held the vided than ever. No one, Jew or 1 -\
Old City and its coveted Western Arab, wants to rebuild the sniper
Wall and adjacent Temple walls that once segregated the
two populations. In any case,
Mount.
Teddy Kollek, in his infancy as three decades of calculated con-
mayor, cautiously led us onto the struction by Labor and Likud
balcony of his bullet-scarred town governments has thrown a ram-
hall and showed us the armed part of Jewish housing around
Jordanian sentries within curs- the city so that east Jerusalem
ing distance on the Old City wall. could no longer be assimilated
At the Mandelbaum Gate, the into a Palestinian West Bank. If
only authorized crossing point, there is to be a shaing of control,
we witnessed the Red Cross es- it will have to be political rather
corting a Palestinian peasant than physical.
There has, how ever, been no
grandmother, trailing a bundle
and a bedroll, to join her refugee reconciliation cf populations.
There were attempts in the ear-
family on the Arab side.
My paper sent me back a year ly days to create or revive friend-
later, 30 years ago this month, to ships between people with shared
relieve the correspondent who memories, professions or inter-
covered the Six-Day War. I ar- _ ests. But they soon foundered.
rived in Jerusalem one week af- Politics colored lives and soured.-
ter the ceasefire. Two memory the dialogue.
Arabs still cross to west
snapshots have stayed with me.
The first is the sight from my Jerusalem to work and to shop.
room on the third floor of the But for the last decade, few Jews
King David Hotel of thousands have gone into the Arab areas.
of unorganized Israelis, individ- Even after the 1993 Oslo peace
uals and families, secular and re- accords, most Israelis play safe
ligious, trekking day and night and stay home.
Although the Palestinians
across no-man's land, through the
June heat, the dust and tattered complain about the "Judaization"
of Jerusalem, the Arabs have not -/
barbed wire, to the Western Wall.
Their excitement was sub- been frozen out. The city's over- -\
dued. There was something com- all population has grown by 139
pulsive about the pilgrimage. percent since the Six-Day War,
They had to go, to be there, to but the Arab community has
wonder. No one danced; no one grown more quickly than the
waved flags. The space in front Jewish. About 30 percent of
of the Wall was gritty and un- Jerusalem's 600,000 residents
paved. Men and women stood to- are Arab.
But the Jews and Arabs don't
gether. Some prayed, but most
just stared in silence at the mas- own the divisions. Mutual hos-
tility between secular and
sive stones.
Suddenly, a woman cried out gious, especially haredi or
in Hebrew: "May there be peace "black-hat" Jews, is at an all-time
in the land." It was like a nail _ high. As secular Israelis have be-
puncturing the lingering trauma come more cosmopolitan and less
of a war too close to home. "Jewish" in their lifestyle, the
haredim have become more en-
"Amen," they chorused.
My second memory is of going trenched in theirs — and, with
through the Damascus Gate into an increase in political leverage,
the Old City the morning the mil- more assertive.
The religious protest that the
itary barriers came down. Only
days before, Jews and Arabs had media mock their faith. The secf
killed and died in these same al- ular are infuriated by the "dese-
cration" of national symbols —
leys.
Hundreds of Israelis streamed haredi demonstrators stoning po-
into the Arab market, with its licemen standing to attention
heady scent of sheepskin and when the siren sounded in mem-
spices, poverty and bad drains, ory of fallen soldiers, haredi
to see and to buy. At first the youths burning the Star of David
Arabs hesitated, then a few bold flag on Lag B'Omer.
Yet the situation is not as
young sparks set out to explore
the New City, to marvel at the overwhelming as it seems. Israeli
traffic lights and movie houses. author A.B. Yeshoshua argued
Others, older men and women, that in the country as a whole the
secular camp is winning, but
soon followed.
It was a day out of history, a doesn't realize it.

AL HARRIS

Taltd3ROFF

❑