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Teddy Kollek, in his infancy as three decades of calculated con- mayor, cautiously led us onto the struction by Labor and Likud balcony of his bullet-scarred town governments has thrown a ram- hall and showed us the armed part of Jewish housing around Jordanian sentries within curs- the city so that east Jerusalem ing distance on the Old City wall. could no longer be assimilated At the Mandelbaum Gate, the into a Palestinian West Bank. If only authorized crossing point, there is to be a shaing of control, we witnessed the Red Cross es- it will have to be political rather corting a Palestinian peasant than physical. There has, how ever, been no grandmother, trailing a bundle and a bedroll, to join her refugee reconciliation cf populations. There were attempts in the ear- family on the Arab side. My paper sent me back a year ly days to create or revive friend- later, 30 years ago this month, to ships between people with shared relieve the correspondent who memories, professions or inter- covered the Six-Day War. I ar- _ ests. But they soon foundered. rived in Jerusalem one week af- Politics colored lives and soured.- ter the ceasefire. Two memory the dialogue. Arabs still cross to west snapshots have stayed with me. The first is the sight from my Jerusalem to work and to shop. room on the third floor of the But for the last decade, few Jews King David Hotel of thousands have gone into the Arab areas. of unorganized Israelis, individ- Even after the 1993 Oslo peace uals and families, secular and re- accords, most Israelis play safe ligious, trekking day and night and stay home. Although the Palestinians across no-man's land, through the June heat, the dust and tattered complain about the "Judaization" of Jerusalem, the Arabs have not -/ barbed wire, to the Western Wall. Their excitement was sub- been frozen out. The city's over- -\ dued. There was something com- all population has grown by 139 pulsive about the pilgrimage. percent since the Six-Day War, They had to go, to be there, to but the Arab community has wonder. No one danced; no one grown more quickly than the waved flags. The space in front Jewish. About 30 percent of of the Wall was gritty and un- Jerusalem's 600,000 residents paved. Men and women stood to- are Arab. But the Jews and Arabs don't gether. Some prayed, but most just stared in silence at the mas- own the divisions. Mutual hos- tility between secular and sive stones. Suddenly, a woman cried out gious, especially haredi or in Hebrew: "May there be peace "black-hat" Jews, is at an all-time in the land." It was like a nail _ high. As secular Israelis have be- puncturing the lingering trauma come more cosmopolitan and less of a war too close to home. "Jewish" in their lifestyle, the haredim have become more en- "Amen," they chorused. My second memory is of going trenched in theirs — and, with through the Damascus Gate into an increase in political leverage, the Old City the morning the mil- more assertive. The religious protest that the itary barriers came down. Only days before, Jews and Arabs had media mock their faith. The secf killed and died in these same al- ular are infuriated by the "dese- cration" of national symbols — leys. Hundreds of Israelis streamed haredi demonstrators stoning po- into the Arab market, with its licemen standing to attention heady scent of sheepskin and when the siren sounded in mem- spices, poverty and bad drains, ory of fallen soldiers, haredi to see and to buy. At first the youths burning the Star of David Arabs hesitated, then a few bold flag on Lag B'Omer. Yet the situation is not as young sparks set out to explore the New City, to marvel at the overwhelming as it seems. Israeli traffic lights and movie houses. author A.B. Yeshoshua argued Others, older men and women, that in the country as a whole the secular camp is winning, but soon followed. It was a day out of history, a doesn't realize it. AL HARRIS Taltd3ROFF ❑