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. "71 ■ 1)
Orthodox synagogue, with high
double doors painted bright blue.
My guide tells me it's the second
oldest synagogue in Marrakesh.
Before going into La Zama, I
notice a man wearing a hat and
suit, not a jalaba — traditional
Arab robe. My guide indicates
that this elderly man is Jewish.
Mr. David is cordial and
pleased to answer my questions.
"No, there are no problems for
Jews," he tells me in French. But
then, of course, there aren't that
many Jews left here. "So many
have moved away," he says sad-
ly.
A robed caretaker opens the
large doors of the synagogue.
We're introduced to another Mr.
David who is anxious to speak
with us. Though blind, he knows
every stair and every chair as he
winds his way around the small
maze of narrow streets where
robed men and women rush to do
their early morning chores. The
streets lead us to the Jewish
Cemetery of Marrakesh, but no
one is able to give us the history
of this Sephardic resting place.
The differences from the Aske-
nazi cemeteries are evident. I'm
told that the hundreds of small
mounds which look like sand
dunes are, in fact, unmarked plots
of the poorer Jews that once lived
in Marrakesh. Pm impressed that
this cemetery is kept as well as it
is. Whatever grass there is in this
dry, hot city, is maintained; there
is no debris on the sandy path-
ways.
There are many large head-
stones, some dating back to the
early 1800s, some with the writ-
ing barely legible because of age
and weather. At the bottom of
nilt Vreadizeted
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September 14-24, 1997
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116
shul. He asks his assistant to
open the doors of the ark so that
I can see the Torahs. There are
two: One is 100 years old and the
other 125 years old, he tells me.
Verging on shabby, the walls
are gray with age, the rugs are
curled with wear and the pillows
on the chairs are a mix of colors
and patterns. But the bimah,
though modest, is neat. And each
day there is a minyan for prayers
at 6:30 a.m.
"At Passover and the High Hol-
idays, the 100 or so seats are full,"
he tells me. He seems surprised
when I ask about matzah and
kosher food. "Of course we have
matzah. It comes from Paris and
the meat is made kosher here in
Marrakesh."
Rabbi Azoula, an Israeli, leads
the services on Shabbat.
In the medina (the old area) be-
hind the large market place is a
each headstone is a small alcove
where there are round holders for
the lighted candles.
"These are for the dead and for
the health of the living," my guide
tells me as she hands several for
me to place alongside hers. We re-
peat this three times at different
graves.
A car passes on the narrow
path and I realize there is a fu-
neral in progress. I count only 11
people.
As we leave, there are three
Arab caretakers sitting near the
gates. They hold out their hands
for dirhams . They seem happy
with our small offering.
On a tiled wall next to the en-
trance is a faucet and basin where
we wash our hands. The cobalt
doors are opened and once again
we're outside of this peaceful area
and steeped in the beauty of the
colorful medina. 0
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