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MARGARET MORSE TOURS
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ri% ISRAEL.
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Weimar court orchestra from
1708 until 1717. There is also the
Lizsthaus, the tree-ringed man-
sion set in a park on the River En
in which Franz Lizst lived and
composed from 1869 until his
death in 1886.
The Hotel Elephant on neigh-
boring Market Square is one of
the most elegant in the entire re-
gion around Weimar; it has
housed the likes of Napoleon,
Wagner, Gropi-us and Hitler, and,
from its balcony high above the
square, the Fuhrer himself tri-
umphantly proclaimed the fall of
the Weimar Republic and the
birth of his own thousand-year
Third Reich.
On the top of Eltenberg Hill,
a lushly-wooded area which had
been a picnic ground for the peo-
ple of Weimar since the days of
Goethe, the Nazis constructed the
first permanent concentration
camp in modern times. Buchen-
wald is the other Weimar. No
gilded palaces here, but only the
stark, unadorned reminders of
the blackest moment in German
history.
We entered through the watch
tower and gate, bearing the camp
motto, "Each to His Own." We,
too, had passed the zoological gar-
den which the ever-considerate
Buchenwald commandant, Karl
Koch, had built, as he decreed,
"for the diversion and entertain-
ment of the men in their leisure
time and to show them the beau-
ty and the peculiarities of various
animals which they will hardly
be able to meet and observe in the
wild."
The western wing of the
Buchenwald watch tower, known
as the Bunker, held the cells in
which especially troublesome
camp inmates could be tortured
— the instruments of torture are
on display — by Death's Head
specialists in that art. And visi-
tors can now stand on the balcony
of the tower, from which Death's
Head guards could look down
upon the entire population of the
camp assembled in the muster-
ing grounds for the twice-daily roll
call, keeping their victims at at-
tention until they dropped or forc-
ing them to sing for hours.
Rectangles of white stone mark
the spots where the members of
each cell block had stood.
The complete details of the
Buchenwald nightmare are
spelled out in an extraordinary
museum located at the far end of
the camp. Photographs taken by
Death's Head guards, biographies
and pictures of their victims,
maps and documents, descrip-
tions of the happy and privileged
family life at Buchenwald enjoyed
by the camp officers, their wives
and their children ... these and
hundreds of other artifacts are on
display in a vast, cavernous build-
ing which had functioned as the
storehouse for the properties of
the inmates, of which they had
been totally divested. CI
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ISRAEL EXPERT
Jewish
History Lectures
15 Fmnt Street, P.O. Box 1050
Rockville Centre, NY 11571-1050
1-888-525-EL AL
(516) 766-5140
Toll Free•U.S. &Canada (800) 221.2791
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Owner, Director
Bloomfield Hills
http://www.metroguide.comilynne
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