• • Grand Canyon in Arizona • San Francisco's Alcatr.z MARGARET MORSE TOURS E ri% ISRAEL. as c6 0) Weimar court orchestra from 1708 until 1717. There is also the Lizsthaus, the tree-ringed man- sion set in a park on the River En in which Franz Lizst lived and composed from 1869 until his death in 1886. The Hotel Elephant on neigh- boring Market Square is one of the most elegant in the entire re- gion around Weimar; it has housed the likes of Napoleon, Wagner, Gropi-us and Hitler, and, from its balcony high above the square, the Fuhrer himself tri- umphantly proclaimed the fall of the Weimar Republic and the birth of his own thousand-year Third Reich. On the top of Eltenberg Hill, a lushly-wooded area which had been a picnic ground for the peo- ple of Weimar since the days of Goethe, the Nazis constructed the first permanent concentration camp in modern times. Buchen- wald is the other Weimar. No gilded palaces here, but only the stark, unadorned reminders of the blackest moment in German history. We entered through the watch tower and gate, bearing the camp motto, "Each to His Own." We, too, had passed the zoological gar- den which the ever-considerate Buchenwald commandant, Karl Koch, had built, as he decreed, "for the diversion and entertain- ment of the men in their leisure time and to show them the beau- ty and the peculiarities of various animals which they will hardly be able to meet and observe in the wild." The western wing of the Buchenwald watch tower, known as the Bunker, held the cells in which especially troublesome camp inmates could be tortured — the instruments of torture are on display — by Death's Head specialists in that art. And visi- tors can now stand on the balcony of the tower, from which Death's Head guards could look down upon the entire population of the camp assembled in the muster- ing grounds for the twice-daily roll call, keeping their victims at at- tention until they dropped or forc- ing them to sing for hours. Rectangles of white stone mark the spots where the members of each cell block had stood. The complete details of the Buchenwald nightmare are spelled out in an extraordinary museum located at the far end of the camp. Photographs taken by Death's Head guards, biographies and pictures of their victims, maps and documents, descrip- tions of the happy and privileged family life at Buchenwald enjoyed by the camp officers, their wives and their children ... these and hundreds of other artifacts are on display in a vast, cavernous build- ing which had functioned as the storehouse for the properties of the inmates, of which they had been totally divested. 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