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bubbly is produced in many coun-
tries, including France, Italy, Cal-
ifornia and New York state as well
as Israel. Traditional wine-mak-
ing methods are followed in fer-
mentation, blending, maturation
and bottling. For all wines to be
considered kosher, and that in-
cludes sparkling wines, two basic
regulations must be adhered to:
• Only kosher items may be
used in the winemaking process;
and
• Only religiously observant
Jews may touch the product or
equipment at the winery.
Israel's Best
"With the right grapes and con-
ditions, sparkling wines can be
produced anywhere in the world,"
insists Doron Rand, marketing
director of Israel's Golan Heights
Winery.
"If I didn't tell you
they're kosher, you
The Gift of the Season.
wouldn't know the
difference."
— Philip Silverstone
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Located in the small town of
Katzrin, high up in the Golan
Heights, the winery is state-of-
the-art. All the crushing, press-
ing and pumping equipment as
well as the stainless steel tanks
are computer controlled; only the
best French oak barrels are used.
Wines are distributed under
three labels: Yarden, Gamla and
Golan. Yarden is Hebrew for the
Jordan River. The label shows a
symbol of ancient Israel: an oil
lamp decorated with tiny colored
mosaic tile.
Gamla is the name of an an-
cient town on the Golan which
withstood the conquering Ro-
mans for many years. The Gam-
la label is an Israeli artist's
impression of springtime in the
Golan Heights. There is evidence
that wine was produced in that
region over 2,000 years ago.
At the Golan Heights Winery,
the winemaker is Victor Schoen-
feld, a graduate of the Universi-
ty of California. Its consultant is
Peter Stern, also from California.
To duplicate the French method
of making champagne, Mr.
Schoenfeld worked alongside
winemakers in Champagne,
France. He studied harvesting,
wine-making techniques, and
blending — "the soul part of
winemaking," he says.
Obviously, it paid off. In inter-
national wine competitions,
Golan Heights' wines are gar-
nering the gold, silver and best
sparkling wine awards, a testi-
mony to their success.
Sparkle & Top'
It takes time to produce fine wine
and for sparkling wine, the meth-
ods are complex. The grapes are
gently pressed, which means that
more grapes are needed than for
other wines.
At the Golan Heights Winery,
sparkling wines are aged from
two to three years, using the ex-
act method which originated in
Champagne. In this Methode
Champagnois, the wine is actu-
ally fermented in the bottle in
which it is sold. It's the fermen-
tation that gives the bubbly its
trademark "pop" and sparkle.
Throughout aging, the bottles
are rotated by a series of compli-
cated turns until the bottles are
upside down. Sediment is trapped
in the bottle necks and is removed
by "degorgement" — specifically,
the bottle necks are plunged into
a freezing glycogen bath, creating
a pellet of frozen champagne.
The cap is then carefully re-
moved to shoot out the sediment.
The older method required even
more skill and involved slowly
prying off the cork so that the sed-
iment was expelled by the pres-
sure in the bottle.
To determine the sweetness,
sugar and reserve wines or
brandy are added. Bottles are
then corked, secured with wire
and covered with foil, which
brings up another little-known
champagne fact.
In the late 19th century, the
foil wasn't just for "puttin' on the
ritz." According to an old French
tale, the practice of covering with
foil began when rats roamed the
wine cellars deep underground.
Foil originally contained lead so
when the rats gnawed the string
securing the cork, phht, they
were poisoned! (Don't worry, to-
day's foil is made of aluminum
and quite harmless.)