presents .. .
Anti-Defamation League®
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creasing fascination and interest
in food on the part of the public.
The Best Cookbook of the Year
and the winners of -the Health and
Special Diet Category, and the
Jane Grigson Award, exemplify-
ing distinguished scholarship, are
reviewed below along with a se-
lection of recipes from each.
The Best Cookbook of the Year
award was presented by the
world's most enduring and enter-
taining television cooks, Julia
Child and Graham Kerr. And the
winner was ... John Ash, for his
book From the Earth to the Table:
John Ash's Wine Country Cuisine
by Dutton publishers, $29.95.
Mr. Ash, who is culinary direc-
tor of Fetzer Vineyards, Mendo-
cino County, Calif, received the
coveted crystal whisk, Academy
Awards-style, to the cheers of
more than 1,200 food profession-
als. In this book, Mr. Ash main-
tains that we are undergoing a
profound change in how we think
about and prepare what we eat.
He notes the new American
and especially wine country cui-
sine, what I call development of
the new "mother sauces." The
original "mothers" were high in
butter, cream and other saturat-
ed fats. In my cooking today, much
is replaced by new lighter sauces
such as vinaigrettes, salsas,
pestos, chutneys and juices.
Mr. Ash's philosophy is carried
out and influenced by ethnic in-
gredients that are increasingly
available and most important,
have more flavor. From the Earth
to the Table contains 300 recipes
featuring seasonal ingredients
and distinctive flavor combina-
tions. Suggestions for matching
food with wine are included with
each recipe and handy culinary
tips are scattered throughout the
book. The recipes below reflect Mr.
Ash's passion for fresh ingredients
with pure flavors. ,
Winners of the Health and Spe-
cial Diet category, the late Richard
Sax and Marie Simmons, have
reinvented the way we cook and
eat. In Lighter, quicker, better:
Cooking for the Way We Eat To-
day, published by William Mor-
row and Co., $25, recipes,
traditionally on fat overload, have
been trimmed, not necessarily
eliminated, but taste is vibrant
and authentic. This cookbook is a
return to the simple foods in
which, say the authors, our tastes
are grounded. The delicious result
is a collection of recipes for quick,
tasty dishes — that happen to be
good for you, too. In the 14 chap-
ters from Appetizers to Cakes and
Other Baked Goods, the variety
of flavors and techniques accom-
modate the lifestyles for today's
busy cooks. There are healthful
substitutions for baking, charts
for greens, pastas and grains, a
cluster of food facts, and helpful
cooking instructions.
Saltwater Foodways by Sandra
COOKBOOK page 138
Back by
popular demand!
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