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In Israel, Rich
And Poor Mix Freely
LARRY DERFNER ISRAEL CORRESPONDENT
eing rich in Israel isn't
like being rich in Ameri-
ca, but the difference is
more than just the obvi-
ous one — that rich Americans
tend to have more money than
rich Israelis.
It's also a matter of exclusiv-
ity — in America, the rich can
get away from the poor. In Is-
rael, they really can't.
Let's compare Los Angeles,
where I grew up, and Tel Aviv,
where I live today. In L.A.-,
many of the rich live on the
Westside — in Beverly Hills,
Bel-Air, Brentwood, Westwood,
places like that.
Everybody in their neigh-
borhood well off. For work, they
travel to Westwood, Beverly
Hills or Century City, where the
offices are filled with many of
the same kind of people as their
neighbors. Or maybe they work
in downtown LA, which has its
seedy elements running along-
side and between the fancy of-
fice buildings.
But even if they work down-
town, they're only going to have
the briefest encounter with the
poor — such as passing a few
homeless people lying on the
sidewalk while walking the
block or two from the parking
lot to the office.
That's it. Otherwise, the
wealthy wake up in their Bel-
Air home, drive the freeway
downtown to the office and dri-
ve back on the freeway to Bel-
Air. They pass all the rundown,
crime-ridden neighborhoods
along the freeway, and the ones
spread out beyond it, without
ever seeing them.
In short, in LA. the rich live
in a world that is made up al-
most solely of other rich people.
Poverty is something they
watch on television.
Now take Tel Aviv. The
"business district" is across the
street from the sprawling
wholesale fruit and vegetable
market, which is as dirty, rough
and corrupt a place as you'll find
anywhere in the city. Tel Aviv
has no Westwood, no Century
City — no hermetically-sealed
business center where every-
body and everything is spotless
and shining.
The Tel Aviv Stock Exchange
has a few beautifully gentrified
insurance buildings and bank
branches nearby, but mostly the
area is just falafel joints, dank
little candy stores and rundown,
broken-down apartment hous-
es. Not exactly Wall Street.
The capital of Israeli export,
B
the Diamond Exchange just
across the freeway in Ramat
Gan, is a favorite nighttime
hangout for hookers.
And after a day at the office,
where does the rich Tel Aviv
businessman go home to?
He may live among his own
kind in the high-priced towns
of Herzliya Pituach, Savyon or
Kfar Shmaryahu. Or he may
live in North Tel Aviv, which is
just a cleaner, more expensive
version of the stucco apartment
neighborhoods in the rest of the
city, with all the same kind of
junky little shops.
Or he may be plaining to
move to the hottest, fastest-
growing upscale area in Israel
— the Tel Aviv beachfront.
This is a sight. Along the
beachfront, in between the lit-
tle kebab dives, next to apart-
ment buildings that are literally
crumbling from decades of ex-
posure to the salty wind, luxu-
rious highrise commercial-
residential complexes are going
up.
Apartments sell from about
$300,000 to $1 million-plus, yet
the neighborhood is anything
Israel's small size is
one reason why rich
and poor mix more
in the Jewish state.
but exclusive. During the six-
month summers, .and any
weekend of the year, this is the
most crowded, most active place
in Israel. It draws loud-
mouthed teen-agers bussing in
by the tens of thousands.
The heart of the luxury build-
ing boom is on the southern
beachfront, which is also the
poorest part of the strand, a bor-
derline slum. Neighborhoods
right behind the beachfront are
dotted with apartment build-
ings long emptied and slated for
condemnation. Taking a stroll
through the area means keep-
ing one's head down and walk-
ing serpentine-fashion around
and between the dog deposits.
Two blocks behind the strand
is the Yemenite Quarter, a col-
orful spot with great humus
and grilled meats, also noted for
its strong stench of open sewage
and its jumble of tiny, falling
down apartments, scrunched
together as in a ghetto. Next to
this quarter is the open-air
Carmel Market, another
sprawling, colorful eyesore.