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January 18, 1991 - Image 88

Resource type:
Text
Publication:
The Detroit Jewish News, 1991-01-18

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OPEN EVERYDAY 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.

FEATURING SUGAR•FREE & FANREE ICE CREAM & MUFFINS

WE ACCEPT ALL BULK FOOD
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SPECIAL JANUARY 18-24

76

FRIDAY, JANUARY 18, 1991

the past — winning a blue rib-
bon at the Nibble 'N' Nosh
Special to The Jewish News
Luncheon, first in the Hadas-
sah Bake-Off, gaining a repu-
ow that a biography
tation for mock gefilte fish
of Margaret Mead re-
that fools even the experts,
veals that although
compiling the sisterhood Mit
she could have afforded a
Tahm Cookbook.
cook, America's foremost an-
These achievements, for-
thropologist enjoyed cooking
tunately, are no longer frown-
and always came home to fix
ed upon as synonymous with
dinner for her daughter, it's
pre-lib apostasy. Forget the
time for secret cooks to proud,
subterfuge once necessary to
ly stage a coup d'etat in the
conceal honest culinary in-
kitchen. A bold move, long
clinations. Would you believe
overdue.
the kitchen is not considered
Since Ms. Mead, author of
a threat to women's rights, in-
34 books and a luminary on
compatible with feminist
the lecture circuit, admitted
goals, or demeaning to one's
that cooking was an ardent
personhood?
interest, and another na-
The perceptive berate
tionally acclaimed maven of
themselves for having lost
the feminist nucleus confess-
touch with formidable roots:
ed she finds joy making
the generations of women
mushroom soup, from scratch,
who expressed their love in-
for her children, there's no
tuitively with chicken soup
longer reason to be reticent
and Jewish "K" rations:
about ambitions once sup-
kreplach, kugel and knishes.
pressed: A yearning to form . Was it really all that bad or
featherweight kneidlach, con-
did the message get lost in
cocting sweet and sour cab-
the interpretation?
bage that precludes heart-
Picture today's balebuste
burn, serve kasha without
confiding that the dill pickles
lumps.
in her earthenware crock are
At last, cooking is not to be
just like Grandma put up.
regarded as a symbol of op-
Maybe a little more
pression or an activity reserv-
geshmakt. Take heart — all
ed for the decadent bourgeois.
you zealous anti-sexist revolu-
Nor does it constitute a con-
tionaries and political ac-
fining obligation, emerging
tivists. Flaunt your bountiful
somewhat belatedly as an ex-
cuisine approach: chopped
emplary desire. Liberation
liver canapes, blintz souffles,
leaders are candid in
herring salad, gourmet
acknowledging the merits of
lukschen jubilee.
creative cookers, albeit a
Brag about your dexterity
throwback to previous
in stretching strudel dough,
decades.
expertise in assembling
Like their bubbies before
teighlach.
them, much of modern
The obsessions and burdens
women's identity and esteem
of liberation are over. Cur-
are defined by what they ac-
rently, the magic word is
complish in the kitchen and
"choice." It has become a
how they cook for their
substantial prerogative, re-
families. Since cooking has
flecting the right to choose, to
been officially declared non-
determine and clarify our
shameful, militant practi-
value system, establish pri-
tioners of feminist views can
orities. Emancipation and Eg-
go public about presiding over
gplant Israelienne do mix. A
pungent and flavorful pots.
fail-proof method for honey
They are free to broadcast
chiffon cake is nice to know.
earlier unmentioned talents
One can be a liberated female
for kneading challah dough,
and cookstove sorceress
making their own farfel and
without surrendering self-
mandlen, declaring a prefer-
worth or compromising
ence for scanning recipes in-
status.
stead of editorials at break-
Who dares suggest that
fast without fear of censure
cooking has not always been
from sisters in the movement.
a challenging art, an excep-
Who cares about an in-
tionally creative, highly per-
dividual's dialectic posturing
sonal and rewarding avenue
when she can turn out a
of esthetic expression? I will
delicious carrot tzimmes and
never receive the Pulitzer or
her hamentaschen are better
be a Nobel laureate, but when
than the bakery's? Born-
my three-year-old grandson
again chefs needn't be dis-
triumphantly proclaimed to
honest about disclosures from
the other side of the family
that his Grandma Gloria
Gloria Charnes is a freelance
bakes cookies — Ahh,
writer in Oak Park, Ill.
wilderness is paradise now. 0

GLORIA L. CHARNES

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Art Of Cooking
Becomes Liberated

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