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The future, he says, also
depends on maintaining the
pluralism that's so much a
part of this melting-pot city.
It's a place where Jews and
Muslims co-exist in harmony;
the city has a Muslim popula-
tion of about 200,000. And
the Jews now number 80,000,
with over 90 percent of them
of North African descent.
They have made their
presence decisively felt.
Besides its 23 synagogues,
Marseille also has distinctly
Jewish areas like St.
Marguerite. With its small
shuls and Jewish shops, this
is like a French-style
Williamsburg.
Another quarter with a
Jewish presence is Tapis Vert.
It's an area of small shops
where Jews and Muslims
often work next door to each
other. In the kosher eatery,
Eden Up, at 30 rue Tapis Vert,
Sephardic Jews mingle with
the Muslims who often stop
in for a snack.
Also of interest to the
Jewish traveler are public
sculptures with Jewish
themes. Near the Old Port is
a small, tranquil public
square called Place de Jan-
vier 23, 1943. It is named
for a day during the Ngzi
occupation when the Vichy
Marseille and rounded up and
deported many Jews.
A sculpture in the middle of
the square is titled
"Memorial of the Deporta-
tion." It depicts a skeletal
figure lying prostrate on an
elevated rectangle — a stark
but powerful symbol of those
who were deported.
The sculpture was in-
augurated on April 23, 1983,
by Mayor Gaston Deferre, the
city's longtime past mayor,
who had managed during the
war years to rescue many
Jews. Because of his active
support of Jewish causes and
of Israel, there's a plaque in
the synagogue dedicated to
Deferre and a tree in Israel
planted in his name.
Another sculpture, quite in
contrast, honors a different
aspect of Marseille's Jewish
history. "Marseille, Porte de
l'Orient," is a modern
abstract sculpture of curves
which represents hope and
opportunity.
It's located in a modern
beach area several miles out-
side the town center.
Reaching it is part of the
pleasure of a Jewish tour of
Marseille. As the bus travels
along the wide Corniche
President Kennedy boule-
vard, there are views of the
bay, with hundreds of
pleasure boats berthed — and
even of the French Alps in the
distance.
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