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Agencies Check Restaurants
To Assist Absent Owners
DANNY RASKIN
Local Columnist
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24545 W. 12 MILE RD., Just West of Telegraph (Next to Star Deli)
64
FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 1989
estaurateur who pre-
fers to remain anony-
mous, writes, "As con-
scientious operators we strive
to train our staff to follow the
guidelines of hospitality as
set forth by management. We
respond to positive attitudes,
open personalities and
courteous manners. .
"When the manager is on.
the premises, employees
generally put their best foot
forward. But what really
takes place when the assis-
tant manager, hostess, etc.,
takes over in their absence? Is
every plate being being gar-
nished? Are medium rare
steaks now being served
medium well? Are servers
now chatting on the phone
and too busy to notice a
customer's needs?
"Action, in this case, means
taking necessary steps to en-
sure the operation is always
running as it should run.
Reaction is merely embar-
rassment for not taking ac-
tion in the first place.
"In most large metropolitan
cities, there are agencies that
specialize in reviewing
restaurants. These agencies
are sometimes affiliated with
parent Protective. Agencies.
Their assignment is simple —
act as customers and report in
detail their experience at this
restaurant on this particular
afternoon or evening.
"Within three days of their
visit, the manager/owner
receives a complete detailed
report on the visit.
"The agency I used while in
another city, charged so much
per visit plus they billed you
for the dinners. Liquor ser-
vice is only criticized if you re-
quest it. In my opinion, this
information is well worth the
price. I never met the people
assigned to review my
restaurant. However, I did tell
them what day to review the
operation which was general-
ly my day off.
"During the 11 months I
used this agency, I never once
received a report stating that
every detail was being per-
formed as I would have
wanted it to be performed.
"For those with restaurants
where these agencies do not
exist, don't give up. Find a
friend or two who are willing
to participate and assist you
with this project. Go to their
homes and discuss with them
what you are trying to ac-
complish and what you want
them to look for. You'll be sur-
prised at the details they can
provide you with.
"Restaurant critics are
human and they, like most of
us, have an ego to feed. The
next time a change in menu
items is planned, the local
critic or critics should be in-
vited over for a 'preview.' If
the critic accepts the invita-
tion, they should be brought
into the kitchen where the
item is gone over from its raw
state until the final product is
complete. The critic should
view how the product is made
and chefs should be encourag-
ed to converse freely with the
critic.
"Even if the critic declines
the invitation, he or she feels
good thinking their opinion is
respected enough to ask them
to sample an item prior to in-
troducing it to the public.
This is the first step in form-
ing a working relationship
with the critic. But
restaurant people should
remember, nothing will ever
happen unless they take the
initiative to make it happen.
"Let's say that the
restaurant was just reviewed
and the critic implies in his or
her article that a poor or
below-average grade of beef is
used, or that the clam
chowder has an unusual
taste, or perhaps the review
says that a particular sauce is
tasteless. What course of ac-
tion can be taken against the
critic's personal taste or lack
of it?
"With a great deal of
diplomacy, a letter should be
written to the editor of the
newspaper the critic works for
asking that it be printed in
response to the review.
"If the critic has implied
that a below-average grade of
meat or fish is being used, a
copy of the supplier's invoice
whould be submitted showing
that top grade products are
being used. The letter should
also state this fact.
"If the reviewer remarks
that the clam chowder has a
`strange' taste to it, then the
letter should list all of the in-
gredients and let the public
judge for themselves if the
chowder sounds good.
"Newspapers are obliged to
print letters to editors that
clarify or respond to subjects
their people report on. Those
in the restaurant business
should take advantage of this
free publicity and at the same
time tell their customers
what is really going on in
their restaurant.
"All that I have written up
to now deals with one in-
dividual, the critic. But what
about the hundreds of critics
that visit a restaurant every
week — the customers? How
sure are owners that every
customer who leaves their
restaurant is planning to
return?
"The only safeguard
against the restaurant critic
and the critical customer is to
stay close to all phases of the
operation and never rest on
previous laurels. Negative
remarks spread by word of
mouth from dissatisfied
customers will cripple a
restaurant."
ABOUT 750 PEOPLE
made Michigan the Bountiful
by City of Southfield and
Chefs de Cuisine Association
a big success at the Southfield
Pavillion . . . All proceeds will
be sued for MCCAS Scholar-
ship Fund for students in the
culinary arts.
Last year's first-time atten-
dance was 600, not the 1,000
figure presented by eager
beaver publicists . . . But the
750 number made it more
successful tha the '88 event
. . . and the 1989 food fantasy
was also much better.
ENRICO CARUSO Socie-
ty is every Wednesday night,
7:30 to 10:30 p.m. at
DePalma's Restaurant on
Plymouth Rd., two blocks
west of Merriman in Livonia
. . . Arias and duets plus
Caruso-famed Neopolitan
songs are performed by
members of the Verdi Opera
Company, soprano Gina
D'Alessio, baritone Dino Valle
and their fine accompanist,
pianist David Wilson.
HERSHEL'S DELI - &
Bakery on W. Big Beaver in
Troy, plus all its other
eateries by the same name,
will soon be purchased by
Spoons Restaurants.
WHEN COMPANY open-
ed on Broadway in 1970, it
was impossible to find a
review that didn't praise the
music, the lyrics, the book,
the concept, the wit, the
brilliance, the intelligence .. .
Critics called it an analysis of
love and marriage, a musical
adventure, even a work of art
. . . The staid Financial Times
thanked God for a splendid
American musical . . . And
Stephen Sondheim won Tony
Awards for both music and
lyrics.
Although many believe that
Company is a "New York
show,", Sondheim disagrees
. . . He has always said it's an
urban show reflecting the
pressures of big city life .. .
any big city . . and relation-
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