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All Specials Good Through March 16th, 1988
115RIDAY_MARCH 11 1988
GLORIA KAUFER GREENE
Special to The Jewish News
Empire Fresh Cooked
TURKEY BREAST...
Some Inspiration For
Passover Gourmets
or the past several
years, I have always in-
cluded delectable foods
from many different Jewish
cultures on our Pesach Seder
table and in meals during the
rest of the holiday. This not
only adds variety and appeal
to our menus, it also reminds
my family and guests that
Jews come from (and live in)
many different places around
the world.
When I first began this en-
joyable custom, it was dif-
ficult for me to find even a few
non-Ashkenazic holiday
recipes. Now, I am delighted
to say, my task has been made
much easier with the publica-
tion of several good cookbooks
which include Sephardic and
other international Jewish
recipes.
One such beautiful cook-
book which was written
specifically for Pesach, is The
Passover Gourmet by Nira
Rousso (Adama Books, New
York, 1987, hardcover, 188
pages). Produced in Israel and
previously published in
Hebrew, it has a large format
and is full of lovely color
photographs. More than half
of the approximately 110
recipes are illustrated with
full-page close-ups.
From the short introduc-
tion, one can deduce that the
author has an Ashkenazic
background but learned
about the "other type" of
Jewish food when she mar-
ried into a Sephardic family.
(Interestingly, I have found
several Sephardic recipes in
cookbooks and articles writ-
ten by Ashkenazic authors.
Perhaps it is because those of
us who are "new" to Sephar-
dic cuisine especially ap-
preciate its diversity and
flavor, and thus we want to
share our "discovery" with
others.)
The Passover Gourmet in-
cludes an interesting mix of
Ashkenazic and Sephardic
recipes, along with Israeli
ones that sometimes seem to
be an amalgam of the first
two types. Though several of
the recipes are unfamiliar,
directions are typically sim-
ple and to the point. Occa-
sionally, the information
provided may be too sketchy
for novice cooks; however, the
photographs of the finished
products help significantly in
determining what needs to be
done.
One of the highpoints of
this cookbook seems to be the
large number of recipes (par-
ticularly dairy ones) that are
appropriate for mid-holiday
Pesach dining. For instance,
there are brunch dishes such
as Cheese Rolls with Coconut,
Leek-Feta Patties, and
Cheese Triangles, and dinner
casseroles like Layered Mush-
room Crepe Bake, Zucchini
Fritada and Passover
Shepherd's Pie. On the other
hand, very few of the "fancy"
desserts would be suitable for
most Seders since almost all
contain milk products. (Other
sections of the book do con-
tain many recipes that could
be used at a Seder.)
The title page of The
Passover Gourmet indicates
that the book is "kosher."
Nevertheless, those who
follow the Ashkenazic custom
of avoiding kitniyot (legumes,
such as beans) during Pesach
should be aware that green
beans, yellow wax beans, and
fava beans (a Sephardic holi-
day favorite) are included in
some recipes. Also, at least
one recipe calls for Jewish soy
sauce — which is made from
soy beans and, frequently,
wheat, and another calls for
Amaretto liqueur — which is
usually made with grain
alcohol.
Furthermore, a few "pro-
cessed" foods that do not in-