COOKING
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All Specials Good Through December 9th, 1987
,
C
t first glance, most
non-illustrated cook-
books appear to be
unremarkable, though closer
perusal often reveals wonder-
ful recipes and enlightening
text. On the other hand, some
illustrated cookbooks are fill-
ed with gorgeous color
photographs that tease the
palate, but the text lacks the
substance that many serious
cooks have come to desire.
Nevertheless, these books
may make nice Chanukah
gifts for those who are more
interested in what a dish
looks like than its history, or
for those who prefer to display
their books rather than ac-
tually delve very deeply into
them.
Jewish Holiday Cakes by
Hana Shaulov (Mama Books,
New York, 1986, $17.95, 168
pp., hardcover) tends to fall in-
to the latter genre of "coffee-
table" books. The 8 1/2- by
11-inch cookbook features
just one recipe on each left-
hand page, with an attractive
full-page photo of the finish-
ed product on the facing,
right-hand page. (No in-
termediate steps are shown.)
Not only is the dust jacket
beautifully illustrated, but
the actual book cover matches
it exactly and can be wiped
clean. This is very conve-
nient, as dust jackets tend to
get ruined so easily.
The seventy-one luscious-
looking recipes are divided in-
to chapters by Jewish
holidays — Rosh Hashanah,
Sukkot, Hanukah, Tu
B'Shvat, Purim, Passover, and
Shavuot — with a larger
chapter at the end for
"Special Occasions" such as
birthdays, anniversaries,
Mother's Day, and In-
dependence Day (as sug-
gested in the Table of
Contents).
A very brief introduction at
the beginning of Jewish Holi-
day Cakes states that "The
cakes are all traditional . . ."
However, none of the recipes
gives any background infor-
mation, and several of the
recipes don't seem the least
bit traditional for the
holidays under which they
are categorized. This
cookbook was originally
published in Israel, and
perhaps the recipes have
become traditional there for
the specified holidays. I per-
sonally would have liked the
author to include a short ex-
planation with each recipe to
let the reader know. It would
make serving these cakes
during the holidays much
more meaningful.
The recipes generally seem
clear and easy to follow except
for a few quirks. I suspect that
the translator has a British
background because some of
the recipe names, ingredients
and descriptions seem
peculiar to me. For instance,
the term "crumbly," as in
"Crumbly Poppyseed Haman-
taschen," would likely be con-
sidered an undesirable trait
to the American cook, com-
pared to "flaky" which is pro-
bably what was meant.
Plan flour is called for in-
stead of "all-purpose flour"
and plain chocolate means, ac-
cording to a small section on
Tips and Basic Rules, "milk
chocolate or special dark
chocolate candy bars." (I sup-
pose the choice is up to the
cook, though these two types
of chocolate tend to produce
very different results.)
The index of the book is ar-
ranged in an Israeli-
European style; that is, the
recipes are listed by major in-
gredient or perhaps type of
baked good, rather than
alphabetically by name.
If you don't mind sorting
through some of this minor
confusion, the photographs in
Jewish Holiday Cakes are
bound to tempt you into tryng
one or more of Hana
Shaulov's appealing crea-
tions. If they taste as good as
they look, they should be
quite a success on your holi-
day table.
Following are recipes from
the "Hanukah" chapter of
Jewish Holiday Cakes to help
give you a head start on the
upcoming celebration. (For
Continued on Page 90