The Michigan Daily — michigandaily.com Michigan in Color Wednesday, April 21, 2021 — 9 The Instagram face and its implications Do you remember the Kylie Jenner lip challenge in 2015? The internet went under her spell as countless teens took to social media to share videos of themselves suctioning their lips inside a shot glass, hoping to recreate Kylie’s voluptuous (and artificial) lips. The results of the challenge were grotesque: Participants would end up with bloodshot, bruised and swollen lips, and some teens were sent to the ER for their injuries. Looking back on the challenge six years later, I have come to realize that a trend I initially found hilarious as a child was, is in fact, a symptom of a much larger issue: the mindless replication of the Instagram look. What is the Instagram face? Go on the Instagram Explore Page, and you will soon find out. Most women able to garner fame and praise through their appearance on social media have very similar faces; it is as if their features follow a specific template. Based on my observations as an avid social media user, the “look” often includes: 1.) A youthful, heart-shaped face; 2.) A small button nose with an upturned tip; 3.) Full lips with a defined philtrum; 4.) Full, but well- groomed brows; 5.) Upturned, cat-like eyes; 6.) A defined, forward-pointing chin and a chiseled jawline to match; 7.) High cheekbones; 8.) Defined lashes sometimes achieved through extensions; 9.) Tan, dewy skin; 10.) The length of the nose perfectly trisects the rest of the face; 11.) Distance between the eyes being equal the width of one eye; 12.) Natural-looking makeup; 13.) Voluptuous bust and buttocks; 14.) A tiny waist with defined abdominals; 15.) Long, shiny hair; 16.) Never repeating an outfit and always trendy. The Instagram look is racially ambiguous, as it includes many features commonly found in Black women, Indigenous women and other women of color. However, BIPOC women who naturally have these features, compared to rich white and white-adjacent women who have gone through cosmetic procedures to achieve the same features for aesthetic’s sake, are rarely given the same level of acclaim or endorsements for their natural beauty. The Kardashians are known for going under the knife and appropriating ethnic styles to achieve a racially ambiguous look, all the while denying they have gotten cosmetic procedures, thus further raising beauty standards for women. Kylie Jenner underwent a lip-enhancing procedure in her teen years that broke the internet, making her the pioneer of the Instagram face. She has been able to market and create a lip product line so successful it elevated her to the status of a “self-made” multi-millionaire. Through excessive tanning, getting procedures to plump their lips and creating a more curvy figure, the Kardashians are effectively appropriating Black and brown features as their own. By becoming the trademarked beauty standard in the 2010s, the famous family did erase and is still actively erasing BIPOC beauty and encouraging more white and white-adjacent women to follow suit in appropriating these features. Consider how we take naturally full lips on Black girls for granted, but Kylie Jenner’s surgically altered ones are admired and emulated. White models routinely use fake or spray tan to appear darker and more exotic, while darker-skinned women are rarely praised for their natural skin tone. BIPOC women often face colorism and even sometimes pressure to become lighter. Also consider how East Asians have always been mocked through the racist gesture of pulling one’s eyes back, but when white models are doing said gesture in the name of fashion or a more “lifted” look, they are deemed as beautiful. The appropriation doesn’t end at BIPOC features — Instagrammers and celebrities alike are also appropriating BIPOC styles and creativity. A lot of the styles popularized by social media, such as bandannas and streetwear, were worn almost exclusively by Black and brown people before the age of social media. Through appropriating Black and brown creativity, white influencers and celebrities have commodified styles that used to be more accessible to the general public. For instance, certain Nike sneakers used to be much cheaper when they were much more popular within minority groups. After the popularization of sneaker styles such as the Jordan Mids, resell prices then skyrocketed to maximize profit, thus excluding the communities that popularized the style in the first place. The majority of society are viewing these flawlessly posed and edited images of Instagram models. Upon being bombarded by these images of beautiful women online, people will subconsciously raise and isolate the standard for what it means to be feminine and attractive. While cis-gendered, heterosexual men are viewing these influencers for their own enjoyment, as they are likely attracted to the models’ physicality, women and female-presenting people are almost always viewing these models for inspiration, in pursuit of their beauty, which then turns into critical self-deprecation. We are socialized to view each other as competition. The patriarchy encourages us to center our physical attractiveness at the core of our identities, and as a result we often view ourselves critically and take actions, such as putting on makeup or getting cosmetic procedures, in hopes of becoming more “beautiful.” Instagram models prey on other women’s insecurities. While following and viewing your favorite influencers can start out innocently, it almost always leads to some kind of comparative self-esteem issue. The majority of women and girls do not have the same access to makeup artists, trainers or nutritionists as these models. Therefore, women who do not have these resources may feel bad about themselves when compared to the highly manufactured images of Instagram models. Young women, and especially teens, without a fully developed identity and body image, can easily develop self-image issues and even eating disorders in pursuit of the elusive ideal. This beauty standard is so elusive that the small fraction of girls who do fit into it are getting brand endorsement deals, which used to be unthinkable before the age of social media. These opportunities naturally invoke some level of insecurity in other women. Like the name “influencer” entails, the influencers take advantage of their followers’ insecurities and influence them to purchase more makeup or trendy clothes that often come from unethical fast fashion brands. Some women have gotten multiple forms of cosmetic procedures to replicate the Instagram look. Procedures such as breast lifts and buttock lifts have increased exponentially since the beginning of the century, coinciding with the rise of social media. At “best,” men dismiss women they find unattractive. At their worst, men abuse women they find unattractive, especially in romantic partnerships. Because of how society treats beauty as an integral part of a woman’s identity, and if their beauty does not meet a certain standard, they could face professional and societal limitations, in comparison to women who do fit that standard. As beauty standards become more particular and less attainable, society as a whole becomes more accustomed to the aesthetic expectation of these women online, and in real life, there will be a larger bracket of women who they might deem unattractive. To some extent, this will lead to the mistreatment of women who are deemed as conventionally unattractive. On most social media platforms, once you interact with influencers, the algorithm takes notice and pushes more posts of the same genre to you. Thus, Instagram models are gradually becoming omnipresent on most people’s timelines and explore pages. While viewing these carefully curated images can be exhausting and make us insecure, consider that nobody is perfect in the way these images are. The pictures you see on social media are posed and edited: Sometimes even with a team behind the model, helping her create the best image of herself. Knowing how harmful these beauty standards are to young girls, there are now influencers who are actively defying them by posting untouched images of their faces and bodies, showing their authentic selves. To whom this may concern: Please do take social media breaks if you need it! Unfollow the influencers and delete the apps if that helps, and always keep in mind that pictures posted by celebrities are often as manufactured as can be. Mother tongue Despite being surrounded by it for my entire life, I am not entirely fluent in Arabic. There has always been a twinge of shame underlying that fact, breeding a strange sense of inadequacy in me. No matter how much I’d like for it to be different, my proficiency in the language is capricious at best. I grew up immersed in my family’s colorful Algerian dialect, utilizing it to communicate with my grandparents or decipher the occasional scolding I received from my mother. Beyond that, I’d always felt that what was supposed to be my “mother tongue” sat awkwardly in my mouth like dead weight. It fumbled the pronunciation of Arabic words, distinctly marking me as an imposter when communicating with my friends who spoke the language with ease. They watched as I struggled with the complex inflections that the language demands, unable to muster the skillful “-kh” sound or achieve the masterful rolling of “r”s with any believable intensity. A red flush crept across my face every time someone discovered my descent and asked “Inti bthakee Arabi?” (Do you speak Arabic?), as I knew that my response would have to be a feeble shrug or a lackluster “kind of.” That ambiguous “kind of” was qualified by a sizable inventory of words and phrases I’d collected throughout my life, furtively stowed away in my mind and ready to be wielded at any moment that required me to prove my validity. I’d learned enough Arabic to navigate family situations or conversations with strangers, but never enough to gossip about a teacher with my classmates. Just enough to get to claim the identity, but never enough to claim the language. Despite the looming presence it had in my life, Arabic remained largely foreign; any interaction I had with it left me feeling like a tourist in what was supposed to be my own home. For a long time, I felt such a strong disconnect between myself and my identity — one that I was convinced only fluency in the language could bridge. I hated the way I sounded “American” every time I attempted to slip into Arabic pronunciations or the way that words clashed in my throat in frenzied discordance. As I grew older, I gained the ability to understand most of what I was hearing but could never respond with the same ease. I coveted the beauty of the language, the way it melted in mouths like butter, effortless like silk or honey or true belonging. But with each syllable and stressed note dying in my mouth, I settled for the silence and languished in the listening. While I viewed my lack of fluency in Arabic as a deficit in the later years of my life, this was never the case when I was a child. Rather, I was enamored by the mystical nature of the language, deeming it a world of opportunity and never considering myself to be condemned from its gates. I was particularly enraptured by watching members of my family perform the five daily Islamic prayers, a beautiful language in their own right. When I was old enough to begin praying, I learned by mirroring my mother’s movements; I followed each graceful bow of her unwavering frame, eagerly awaiting the next cue: a triumphant rise, a humble bend, an imperceptible yet controlled sway. When it came time to attach holy words to those movements, I had to resort to learning the sounds of each Surah (prayer). Unable to understand the words, I internalized the way they rose and collided against each other like waves, committing their dynamic movements to memory. I prayed through mimicry, reciting a series of noises that had yet to have any perceivable definition underlying them. Everything about these daily prayers was steeped in an indescribable divinity, a sacredness that was just out of reach despite its warmth feeling unmistakably close. I continued to pray, reciting the sounds from memory, moving through the motions with a learned knowingness that was tinged with a shadow of doubt about the efficacy of my performance. Beyond that doubt sat an even darker fear: Does this count? If I’m just repeating from memory without knowing the weight of the words I’m uttering… am I truly praying? Being a stranger to Quranic vocabulary, there seemed to be an insurmountable cleft between the words I was whispering and the sanctity of the meaning they held. I feared that I would fall into that dark chasm separating practice and understanding — a fate that no amount of mimicry could save me from if I didn’t possess an inherent grasp of the language — dooming me to remain suspended in my own muddied sense of self. I knew that this fear felt traitorous and undeserved; Arabic itself had never made me feel scared, only safe. It was the language that wafted through my home, perfumed with the wisdom of my grandmother and tenderness of my mother. Knowing this helped diffuse any trepidation that may have tainted such a meaningful part of my life. I convinced myself that praying meant trying — it was having faith in the words I didn’t know and trusting that they would still be heard and understood. Through reconfiguring what prayer meant to me, I began to fill the gaps left by language on my own; I didn’t know what my hums and recited whispers meant, but I knew that they meant something. Kneeling at a prayer rug, the language stopped feeling foreign. While there was still a gnawing sense of yearning for the concealed meaning tucked between the unfamiliar words, there was also a whisper of satisfaction in the fact that I did know them — that I could conjure them with my own breath and make them come alive on my tongue. They did not have to be inaccessible or arcane; they could still be mine. As I’ve gotten older and gained comprehension and ability in Arabic through experience, the language gap still remains. However, I’ve learned that I can fill that language gap the same way I did during my daily prayers as an 8-year-old, constructing my own meaning from the pieces I’ve collected. I am not yet fluent in the Arabic language, but the grasp it has on me is unequivocal, inspiring a familiarity that could only be felt by someone who has known it their whole life and in all their lives past. YASMINE SLIMANI MiC Columnist Disability in the time of climate crisis The student-organized symposium, “Loving Our Planet Like We Should Love Each Other: Disability in the time of climate crisis” took place on March 9. The symposium, which offered live captioning and American Sign Language-English interpreting for panelists and attendees, was organized and hosted by the students of the Linguistics 102 course, shedding light on the resources and passions that can be mobilized amongst the University of Michigan’s student body. Though the focus was on the climate crisis, the conversation was particularly special in that it was mindful of the intersectional effects of racism, classism and ableism, and the panelists were well-equipped to speak on each matter. The event opened with a land acknowledgement, noting that the broadcast took place from unceded Anishinaabe territories of Osawa, Bodéwadmi (Potawatomi) and Meskwahki-asa-hina (Fox) peoples. Additionally, the event was in memoriam of the many disabled people, Black and Indigenous community members and people of color who have died preventable deaths in the disaster that has been the COVID-19 pandemic and in honor of the students’ class member Steven Halland.The symposium featured four panelists: Rafi Darrow, Izzy Laderman, Teddy Dorsette III and Sarah Young Bear- Brown. Rafi explained that their experience with chronic migraines while living in a fire-prone area, amid climate chaos and bad air quality, has limited their access to the outside world, and has forced them to be strategic about when and how to go outside and engage. Rafi has set an intention to nurture solidarity between the chronically ill, neurodivergent, mobility-disabled and sensory-disabled communities through the Bay Area Disabled Dance Collective, of which they are a founding member. As well, they facilitate informative dialogue about disability justice and dance through the Sins Invalid Podcast, “Into the Crip Universe.” Izzy, who described her personality as one of fairy lights and potted plants, spoke to her relationship with Ehlers- Danlos Syndrome. She attested to the fact that many disabled or ill people deal with more than just one disability, and her experience with Ehlers- Danlos Syndrome is accompanied by over 10 additional diagnoses. Izzy has embraced this indubitable pain to mobilize a community and is now the founder and director of Disability Awareness Around the Climate Crisis at only 17 years old. Through this platform, she informs the public on the intersections of disability and the climate crisis, as well as sex education. Teddy immediately acknowledged his being Black and deaf are two inseparable identities in his life, as they are inseparable for all disabled people of color who have been limited by society and political authority. Like Izzy and Rafi, Teddy has dedicated his work to uplifting people who have been provided similar limitations as he. He is a social justice advocate, an entrepreneur and a filmmaker. As co-founder of Teddyboy Entertainment and Def Lens Media, he helps provide resources for others to nurture their creative skills and realize their dreams. For hard of hearing and deaf youth, he established Reel Def Entertainment, which is a non-profit that helps the youth pursue their creative arts interests. He is also the communications manager and an organizer at Detroit Disability Power. Sarah is a member of the Fox Tribe of the Meskwahki nation in Iowa. Sarah is a social justice advocate, a political figure and a businesswoman. She has been an activist for the Indigenous Deaf community since 2014 and advocated for the No Dakota Access Pipeline organization at Standing Rock alongside 20,000 other advocates. Sarah has taken her platform into the political realm as the Vice-Chair for the Native American Caucus for the Iowa Democratic Party, and she is the founder of Gathering of Deafatives, an organization for the Indigenous deaf community. And, as a businesswoman, she creates and sells beadwork through her small business SAYBB Creations Beadwork. Each panelist is active in their respective communities, fostering awareness and creating resources for the issues enforced unto them and their environments. Community activism has long been an essential part of safety and survival amid lower- income and disabled populations. This is largely because political and authoritative figures have failed to address disparities across all aspects of life and have often been the root of the matter. Though the plights presented to the disabled community vary, climate chaos is a frequent inhibition for those with disabilities when it comes to having access to day-to-day pleasures or when it comes down to survival. It has become apparent that the climate crisis serves both as a genesis for disability and as a worsening factor of pre-existing conditions. Rafi spoke to their friends’ experiences with tick- borne Lyme disease, which they note has been on the rise across the country and is a result of climate change. Ticks would normally be killed off in lower temperatures; however, because of global warming, ticks now thrive in certain areas they didn’t used to inhabit. Rafi further explained that this is not new information, but that disabled people are publicly responding to what is happening around us all. Similarly, though Izzy’s condition is genetic and was not caused by the climate crisis, she has many peers whose conditions do lead back to the climate. She reiterated the necessity of recognizing the intersections of environmental racism, ableism and classism, noting that the people most oppressed by such systems often reside in close proximity to toxic pipelines, plants and other damaging infrastructures and meanwhile have less access to medical care. To reiterate this, Izzy described her friend, who lived near a trash-burning plant and had highly active asthma. When this woman moved to a middle-class white neighborhood, her asthma went away. People facing ableist conditions deal with more dire impacts of the climate crisis because of their proximity to the infrastructures causing the climate crisis, and because disabled people are two times more likely to be in poverty, this cyclic proximity to environmental danger is inarguably biased against their livelihood. When these environmental threats are compounded with racism and ableism, there is often a lack of information distributed to those living amid the consequences of such systems. Teddy addressed the Flint water crisis as an example. He reflected on his time as the president of Detroit Black Deaf Advocates — during which the advocates sought access to clean water and other scarcely provided resources — noting that the deaf and disabled communities in Flint had less access to information and were more drastically impacted. Teddy said that people did not even know where or how to access safe supplies. In this case, deafness and Black-ness are simultaneously weaponized against individuals, limiting access to survival necessities. Sarah added that Indigenous people were struggling similarly amid the Flint water crisis and that this is not new; Indigenous communities across the country, such as in the Navajo Nation, have been suffering from water scarcity for years. Within the reservation, Sarah said there are 100,000 people living in extreme poverty without access to clean water, which further perpetuates disabilities. People have to walk far distances to get water bottles, and there are no cars, so as illnesses increase, the lack of accessibility to medical attention factors into an exacerbating death toll. Rafi affirmed that in their hometown of Buffalo, N.Y., communities are gravely affected by poor air and water quality and that this is an apparent trend amongst majority Black, Indigenous or otherwise systemically oppressed communities, including lower-income populations. They went on to reference multiple environmental determinants that have caused harm to their community such as old factories causing asthma and other respiratory illnesses. Teddy notes that the impact of this air pollution has caused particular harm to Black women when considered alongside the neglect of Black maternal, physical and mental well-being. ZOE ZHANG MiC Columnist GABRIJELA SKOKO & ANCHAL MALH Managing MiC Editor & MiC Columnist D e s i g n b y Zo e Zh an g D e s i g n by J an ic e Lin Read more at MichiganDaily.com Read more at MichiganDaily.com