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March 26, 2020 - Image 6

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The Michigan Daily

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Thursday, March 26, 2020 — 6
Arts
The Michigan Daily — michigandaily.com

As you can probably tell from my byline, I’m

The Daily’s community culture columnist. As

I wrote in my application two years ago, my

column focuses on “the intersection between

history, culture and the performing arts.” I’ve

spent the past two years analyzing performances

I’ve attended in Ann Arbor and beyond. I’ve

written about everything from “Mean Girls” to

“Le Marteau sans Maître.”

But two weeks

ago, the performing

arts
industry

began to change.

It began with late

night shows taping

without audiences

and concerts being

live-streamed from

empty concert halls.

The
University

made plans to limit

concert attendance

while
continuing

some
School
of

Music, Theatre &

Dance events.

By the following

week, the entire

industry was shut

down.
Broadway

was dark, Coachella

was
postponed

from
April
to

October.
The

Metropolitan

Opera canceled the remainder of its season

and lost $60 million as a result. The University

canceled all concerts and events of any size

before locking the rehearsal and performance

facilities under the governor’s order.

As I sat in my childhood bedroom trying

to write this column — the University having

all but demanded that students leave campus

— I struggled to write another column about

recent performances and trends I noticed in the

performing arts. It felt as though entire concert

seasons, entire productions, had been canceled

in a period of two short weeks.

At the beginning of March, I was excited for

the premieres of three of my creative works. I

was also excited for countless performances by

and premieres from friends across the country

that I planned on attending. At this point, one

week from the end of March, every one of these

performances has been canceled or postponed

indefinitely.

I had plans to attend a summer music festival

and intern with a professional performing arts

organization. My internship has been canceled

outright; the status of my summer festival

remains uncertain. For those friends who are

about to graduate, jobs in the performing arts

industry are disappearing.

Trying to write a column about the

performing arts this week — trying to find

anything, in essence, to take issue with or

comment on — seemed disrespectful. The entire

industry seems to be in free fall, the bottom not

yet in sight. Any issues I might have with specific

works or performance practices felt trivial.

It’s not as though we haven’t seen performers

and performing arts organizations attempt

to respond to this

crisis.
Hundreds

of performing arts

organizations have

moved
much
of

their creative work

to the realm of

online
streaming.

Audiences
at

home can watch

performances

by
most
major

orchestras
and

operas
free
of

charge. And more

performers
have

taken
to
various

online services to

share their artistic

work that I could

possibly
try
to

recount
in
one

sentence.

Last
week,
I

was
touched
to

see Broadway star

Laura Benanti share a tweet from MUSKET

producer Alexandra Niforos about “The Wiz,”

MUSKET’s canceled production of the semester.

These rounds of cancelations have served as

a great equalizer, relegating artists from high

school to the professional world, at least for the

time being, to social media.

And though these social media posts may

be fun, the outlook for the entire community

remains bleak. The Metropolitan Opera faced

significant backlash recently after it sent

fundraising emails to soloists it had just laid

off. While the specifics of this case may seem

hypocritical — as of now, the organization’s

administrative staff continues to be paid while

musicians and performers are not — the end

result is the same: Everyone is struggling to stay

afloat. This epidemic has, in the space of two

weeks, dragged most of the performing arts

community underwater.

On Community Culture
in the age of Coronavirus

SAMMY SUSSMAN

Daily Community Culture Column

SADHANA RAMASESHADRI

“I got people for that shit.” Abbreviating

the phrase to PFTS, Kevin Gillepsie, one of the

contestants in the new season of “Top Chef: All

Stars,” says he has his own kitchen staff in his

restaurants who perform the menial kitchen

tasks that the contestants are now expected to

perform on the show. For the show’s contestants,

many of whom have their own restaurants, PFTS

is the overarching sentiment of the new season

— a competition filled with tasks resembling the

kitchen grunt’s stress-filled trip down memory

lane.

You, the viewer at home, might use PFTS

when you receive something that you personally

dislike but know of others who would appreciate

that item. The season premiere of “Top Chef:

All Stars” is one of these items: an anxiety-

inducing, tumultuous start that is occasionally

problematic.

Competition cooking shows typically attract

the enthusiastic, young

and cocky journeymen

and industry-hopefuls

of the culinary trade.

The current season of

“Top Chef” provides

a twist — allowing

competitors
(but

not the winners) of

previous seasons to

claim their own Top

Chef title alongside

a
cash
prize
of

$250,000. The talent

pool is particularly

strong: Many of the

competitors,
after

their initial losses on

the show throughout

the seasons have become celebrated chefs in

their own right. Some, such as Gregory Courdet

and Karen Akunowicz, have even earned the

coveted James Beard Award for Best New

Restaurant.

Yet much of the prestige and gravitas of these

accolades is immediately stripped away with the

season’s first Quickfire Challenge — a mise en

place race of coring artichoke hearts, supreming

oranges and deshelling almonds, a contest that

will ultimately determine the composition of

the three groups for the next round. As many

of the contestants rush through the contest, the

judges, in particular Tom Colicchio, critique the

overall messiness of many of the contestants’

final products. Much of the critique focuses on

several contestants’ rustiness toward preparing

the ingredients on hand — the contestants

who manage to create passable or even cleanly

prepared final products do not get much time in

the spotlight. Bravo’s editors instead choose to

linger on those who create sloppy deliverables

instead.

And then, as if on cue, comes the PFTS

comment. Yet in the context of the Quickfire

Challenge, you may find PFTS to be a flimsy,

catch-all fallback to any shortcoming that a

contestant may face throughout the remainder

of the season.

You’ll find there is little drama that unfurls

among the contestants — something the editors

at Bravo try to substitute with dizzying flurries of

jump cuts and close-up shots of the contestants’

hands prepping their dishes. Most of the drama is

a result of technical errors: Errors you might find

unacceptable in the confines of your own home

may become understandable in a restaurant or

competition setting. Not splashing liquid oil on

an open flame may seem like a no-brainer to

many, but it can be easy to be oblivious when

your fish fillets, meant to be served among the

greatest culinary heavyweights, are aggressively

sticking to the unseasoned beach grill.

If you are to be particularly discerning, you

may bristle at both

the show’s insidious

labeling and defining

of “Asian” cuisine. An

“Asian” aioli called so

only due to its usage

of citrus juice and fish

sauce, another “Asian”

aioli
spiked
with

miso, parmesan and

a hibiscus ponzu are

consumed by a judging

panel, all of whom

(aside
from
Padma

Lakshmi) are not of

Asian
descent.
For

many of these sauces

who are created by

contestants who, aside

from Lee Anne Wong and her miso aioli, are not

East Asians and then subsequently are critiqued

by a non-East Asian panel raises a subtle

question. Who are the creative voices and talents

who have the power and privilege to create,

showcase and define East Asian ingredients,

and who with power and privilege can judge

these dishes and ingredients? These are heavy

questions to consider, and not questions that a

show with levity and American-centric ideals

such as “Top Chef” can answer.

But ultimately, the “Top Chef” premiere

offers an exhilarating peak of a show in which

passionate culinary creatives continually hone

their craft by competing amongst each other

under the watchful eyes of Tom Colicchio,

Padma Lakshmi and Gail Simmons. This is the

show you would recommend to those who enjoy

watching the spectacles of action and conflict

flash upon their screens.

‘Top Chef’ is an exhilarating
flurry of food and action

BRENDON CHO
Daily Arts Writer

NBC UNIVERSAL TELEVISION DISTRIBUTION

DAILY COMMUNITY CULTURE COLUMN

Read more online at

michigandaily.com

‘Top Chef’

Season 17 Premiere

Bravo

Thursdays 10 p.m. EST

There will be a

point in time when

physical proximity and
coexistence induce not

fear but beauty

TV REVIEW

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